What size amp fits under the front seat?
05-30-2003, 02:00 PM
#61
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Originally posted by Jeff_M
Well I received the PPI PCX-440 amp and Phoenix Gold install kit yesterday so I'm good to go for tommorow's install! I'd like to thank everyone, especially Andrey, for their helpful advice. I carefully measured the length and width under my front seat and chose the PPI amp based on size/power/price considerations. Unfortunately when I went to place the amp under the seat to get a feel for how I'd install it I realized I made a big error... the height of the amp is too big! I can get it to fit under my seat, but I can no longer move my power seat backwards. I'm not the tallest guy, so this is fine, but I hate giving up the ability to move the seat, and god forbid one of my tall friends tries to move the seat back and fries the power seat mechanism! I'll have to do some more measurements when I get home. I have yet another install question so bear with me...
I'm planning on using all 4 channels of the PPI amp to run the Focal component speakers in the front door. Each channel allows you to run a high and a low pass crossover. It's been somewhat tough to get the Focal component crossover to fit behind the door panel. Can I each driver directly to it's crossovered amp channel and ditch the Focal crossovers? How will this affect the sound?
Well I received the PPI PCX-440 amp and Phoenix Gold install kit yesterday so I'm good to go for tommorow's install! I'd like to thank everyone, especially Andrey, for their helpful advice. I carefully measured the length and width under my front seat and chose the PPI amp based on size/power/price considerations. Unfortunately when I went to place the amp under the seat to get a feel for how I'd install it I realized I made a big error... the height of the amp is too big! I can get it to fit under my seat, but I can no longer move my power seat backwards. I'm not the tallest guy, so this is fine, but I hate giving up the ability to move the seat, and god forbid one of my tall friends tries to move the seat back and fries the power seat mechanism! I'll have to do some more measurements when I get home. I have yet another install question so bear with me...
I'm planning on using all 4 channels of the PPI amp to run the Focal component speakers in the front door. Each channel allows you to run a high and a low pass crossover. It's been somewhat tough to get the Focal component crossover to fit behind the door panel. Can I each driver directly to it's crossovered amp channel and ditch the Focal crossovers? How will this affect the sound?
Yes you can, but I don't recommend it. As far as the Focal crossover locations did you try and fit them inside the door itself down low and in front of the window track, also douoble sided tape works well for attaching them to the outer skin on the opposite side of the glass inside also. If you find a place inside the door for them you may just want to put a piece of "duck tape" over the terminals to keep the water off them as much as possible. The Focal crossover will give you the best sound ment for your component set, while still allowing you to use the left over 2 channels of your amp to run the rears or a sub.
Last edited by Rymin929; 05-30-2003 at 02:02 PM.
05-31-2003, 04:15 AM
#62
Registered User
Ok now I HAVE to pipe up. If you are going to the trouble of running wires at all, you may as well run them to the doors. Sonically the difference btwn 18ga and 12ga is drastic and with the equipment you are running, you owe it to yourself.
Also bypassing your passive crossover CAN in fact produce PHENOMINAL resuslts, but you MUST know what you are doing to attain those results. What you are proposing is called biamping. It basically allows you to have complete control over every aspect of every transducer in your car.
Basically biamping removes the variances presented in using the passive crossover, like the units that came with your focals. With any passive crossover the cutoff frequencies and db/octave slopes will vary with the temperature of the electrolytic capacitors as well as the air core inductors. Biamping a component set removes these variances.
To effectively Biamp, you need either an active crossover upstream of the amplifiers OR you need an amp that has a crossover and gain for each set of channels. Your amp also must NOT produce ANY kind of turn on thump otherwise you will kill tweeters like nobody's business.
If you have any further questions about biamping ask here, or post here on termpro. There are several world champions in sq who post there.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...ubb=forum;f=13
Here is also termpro's Advanced Topic section. This section will really stretch you mind most of the time.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...?ubb=forum;f=6
Also bypassing your passive crossover CAN in fact produce PHENOMINAL resuslts, but you MUST know what you are doing to attain those results. What you are proposing is called biamping. It basically allows you to have complete control over every aspect of every transducer in your car.
Basically biamping removes the variances presented in using the passive crossover, like the units that came with your focals. With any passive crossover the cutoff frequencies and db/octave slopes will vary with the temperature of the electrolytic capacitors as well as the air core inductors. Biamping a component set removes these variances.
To effectively Biamp, you need either an active crossover upstream of the amplifiers OR you need an amp that has a crossover and gain for each set of channels. Your amp also must NOT produce ANY kind of turn on thump otherwise you will kill tweeters like nobody's business.
If you have any further questions about biamping ask here, or post here on termpro. There are several world champions in sq who post there.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...ubb=forum;f=13
Here is also termpro's Advanced Topic section. This section will really stretch you mind most of the time.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...?ubb=forum;f=6
05-31-2003, 05:58 AM
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
Ok now I HAVE to pipe up. If you are going to the trouble of running wires at all, you may as well run them to the doors. Sonically the difference btwn 18ga and 12ga is drastic and with the equipment you are running, you owe it to yourself.
Also bypassing your passive crossover CAN in fact produce PHENOMINAL resuslts, but you MUST know what you are doing to attain those results. What you are proposing is called biamping. It basically allows you to have complete control over every aspect of every transducer in your car.
Basically biamping removes the variances presented in using the passive crossover, like the units that came with your focals. With any passive crossover the cutoff frequencies and db/octave slopes will vary with the temperature of the electrolytic capacitors as well as the air core inductors. Biamping a component set removes these variances.
To effectively Biamp, you need either an active crossover upstream of the amplifiers OR you need an amp that has a crossover and gain for each set of channels. Your amp also must NOT produce ANY kind of turn on thump otherwise you will kill tweeters like nobody's business.
If you have any further questions about biamping ask here, or post here on termpro. There are several world champions in sq who post there.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...ubb=forum;f=13
Here is also termpro's Advanced Topic section. This section will really stretch you mind most of the time.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...?ubb=forum;f=6
Ok now I HAVE to pipe up. If you are going to the trouble of running wires at all, you may as well run them to the doors. Sonically the difference btwn 18ga and 12ga is drastic and with the equipment you are running, you owe it to yourself.
Also bypassing your passive crossover CAN in fact produce PHENOMINAL resuslts, but you MUST know what you are doing to attain those results. What you are proposing is called biamping. It basically allows you to have complete control over every aspect of every transducer in your car.
Basically biamping removes the variances presented in using the passive crossover, like the units that came with your focals. With any passive crossover the cutoff frequencies and db/octave slopes will vary with the temperature of the electrolytic capacitors as well as the air core inductors. Biamping a component set removes these variances.
To effectively Biamp, you need either an active crossover upstream of the amplifiers OR you need an amp that has a crossover and gain for each set of channels. Your amp also must NOT produce ANY kind of turn on thump otherwise you will kill tweeters like nobody's business.
If you have any further questions about biamping ask here, or post here on termpro. There are several world champions in sq who post there.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...ubb=forum;f=13
Here is also termpro's Advanced Topic section. This section will really stretch you mind most of the time.
http://www.termpro.com/cgi-bin/ubb/u...?ubb=forum;f=6
Although I would agree with your above statment arn't you getting alot indepth for someone who's having troubles even mounting there speakers?:pat:
Last edited by Rymin929; 05-31-2003 at 06:01 AM.
05-31-2003, 06:02 AM
#64
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Originally posted by Rymin929
Although I would agree with your above statment arn't you getting alot indepth for someone who's having troubles even mounting there speakers?
Although I would agree with your above statment arn't you getting alot indepth for someone who's having troubles even mounting there speakers?
Steve
05-31-2003, 06:05 AM
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Originally posted by Bumpin' Yota
Yes, I am probably going a bit over his head, but when I was in his shoes, noone would do that for me over on termpro and it took me the better part of 2 years to know what I know now. (which is nowhere near enough...lol) I prefer to be drowned in information than deprived of it.
Steve
Yes, I am probably going a bit over his head, but when I was in his shoes, noone would do that for me over on termpro and it took me the better part of 2 years to know what I know now. (which is nowhere near enough...lol) I prefer to be drowned in information than deprived of it.
Steve
06-28-2004, 10:41 AM
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I must add something about this fuse issue: You MUST fuse the power wire very close to the battery.
Theoretical situation: 12v positive wire running through metal hole. Metal hole is ground. Metal rubs insulation off 12v+ wire. 12v+ wire touches ground. I don't know if you have ever clicked jumper cables together... it sparks and could cause a fire. The same it would do if your 12v+ wire touched ground ANYWHERE. So maybe it's not so theoretical. You'll be passing a 12v+ wire through a hole somewhere in your firewall.... please fuse it.
Steve
Theoretical situation: 12v positive wire running through metal hole. Metal hole is ground. Metal rubs insulation off 12v+ wire. 12v+ wire touches ground. I don't know if you have ever clicked jumper cables together... it sparks and could cause a fire. The same it would do if your 12v+ wire touched ground ANYWHERE. So maybe it's not so theoretical. You'll be passing a 12v+ wire through a hole somewhere in your firewall.... please fuse it.
Steve
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