LOCKnGO

I have a weird question here.
I want to relocate to the ecu higher in the cab of my '90 Toy, I was thinking about mounting it to the cab just behind the passenger head rest. It's either that or put it in a watertight box like the ones used to keep outdoor timers dry. Either way I think I may have to cut the wires

Here is my dielema(sp) If I cut the harness and add wire to lengthen it and then solder the connections, will the solder cause problems? like add resistence or something?

>>>>Any thoughts on this one?

PS> Just a thought about the harness plug, will the wires come out of the plug at all, like the ones for a MOlex connector (home computer)?

lockNgo

Fahrenheit 451

If the ECU connectors are like some of the other connectors on the harness, yes they do pull out. I've been messing around with a combination switch every now and then and on it there is a clip holding the wire ends into the connector assembly. Pull the clip and pull the wires, easy.
I will likely get voted down, but I'd go for weatherpack connectors instead of soldering. Considering how many wires you have to cut and splice, it could add up $$ wise, but you would have a better looking easier to work with harness when finished IMO.
Here is an interesting one (stolen pic) that might almost get you there in one shot:

rimpainter.com

I ran into problems with my SMT6 piggyback unit on my ECU and cheap crimp-type connections. And yes, longer wire and solder joints = increased resistance. Whether or not that will make the vehicle run differently is another question.

Seems like a huge hassle to me. Your best bet would be to make a harness that extends to where you want the ECU and see how everything works once it's plugged in, like Fahrenheit just mentioned.

LOCKnGO

I never thought about one of those. I think that connecter might be too bulky when multiplied by how many I will need. Damn there is a lot of wires!

With all of the flooding down here in the dirty south, i am trying to make my truck as much like a submarine {"The get out of Dodge Project"} as I can.

Last year I had water come in from under the door and flood the cab. luckly it didn't hit the ECU. (5" lift and 35" tires. Yes the H2O was deep, My plans are to be able to go deeper if I have to

gravityfrog

you should just put in a bilge pump

LOCKnGO

Now thats teh funnay!

I am just trying to make my rig somewhat water proof just in case.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Easy to raise the ECU about a foot:
- http://www.4crawler.com/4x4/CheapTri...fing.shtml#ECU

I think if I were to raise it higher, I would grab a harness and ECU off a similar vintage junker and then make up extension cables out of the other connections. But soldering in some extensions would not add much resistance.

For example, I relocated my Air Flow Meter to the other side of the engine and added about 6' of small gauge wire and it works fine. I did the addition by cutting the existing wire then adding a male and female Molex plug at the cut. That way I could check the operation while things were still in the stock location. Then I made up the extension using mating female and male connectors, moved the AFM and plugged in the extension and it worked perfect on the first try.

LOCKnGO

I saw that write-up too, but I am thinking I want to go higher. The other day I was at Lowes abd I saw some waterproof boxes used for out-door sprinkler timers and that got me thinking about this project.

That is another idea I was playing with. I was thinking about turning the AFm towards the fire wall and bringing the pipe and filter into the cab for a snorkel. but right now this is all in the pen and paper stage and I am looking for some I deas.

Thanks 4Crawler

Fahrenheit 451

That connector was the first I had found with more than 6 connectors. I think it has 21. I didn't like the shape either. I wonder if you can pick up new Toyota wire ends from the dealer and then do like Roger suggested and get some junkyard Toyota connectors and wire so you could build an add on harness with matching gauge and color wires.
As another possibly absurd suggestion, how about going with the relocating higher in the dash and then doing some sort of weatherproof box with...yes, I know it sounds stupid, a snorkel. Anything you do with the ECU will require making sure it avoids impacts (one of the usual reasons for relocating it from the kick panel), stays cool and dry so it will have to have some sort of air movement available. At the depth the water would have to be to damage the ECU, you'd be screwed anyway since there are a variety of other relays and switches that would be drowned.
Does your pickup have a camper window? It'd really suck to relocate it only to have a buddy forget and leave the rear window open during a big rain and have the ECU get wet anyway.

LOCKnGO

Well I was looking at it again; and since I have fuel pump harness and the engine harness comming from different directions I might just use the waterproof box I saw at Lowes and leave it in the stock location.
I am not sure if I can use a pin to slide the individual wires from the harness connector, But if I can that would make things a thousand times easier to get the wires through the hole and rubber gromet and then put them back into the connecter.

I did a lot of net-searching and found zero info on this stuff. It seems that not too many are worried about water and the ECU. The funnay thing is I may never see water that deep again but....


After all I do live in Florida

lockNgo

Snorkeldepth

On the water proof case idea . . check out Pelican cases. I kept my handheld electronics in one on many wet, salty sailing trips without ever having a problem. They have a bunch of different sizes.

Check out: http://www.pelican.com/cases/cases.html

You could drill holes for the wires and seal those holes with marine sealant like 3M 5200. Hmm . . I guess sealing a pigtail into the case so you could detach the case from the truck and the ECU from the case would be nice. If you went that far you might as well move it like you mentioned.

LOCKnGO

Hey those cases look bad ass. I'm keeping that link ( for my photography junk ) Thanks for the link, but the case I was looking at was about $10 bucks Tomorrow I will call some of the marine shops and see if they carry the 3M..I was thinking about useing some of the hemp stuff that was used in plumbing and prop seals to seal the holes. hmmmmm