Corey

iTrader: (1)

My rock sliderz are getting chipped from the rocks up at Greenwater real bad.
I'm not sure if it's the paint on them or not.

The owners wife shot them with Hammerite Hammered finish paint which is real good.
It may be on to thin, I don't know.
But all the little chips are starting to rust now :mad: and that doesn't go over well with me.

Sure, I can touch them up, but it's going to keep happening again.
What I am thinking about is getting them powder coated now.
I just got back from the shop and he said he can shoot them for $70 plus the paint which be about $30.

His sand blaster is not big enough for the tubes.
He said I have to get all the paint off and sandpaper is out of the question.

I have a wire stripper that attaches to an electric drill, but even that would take a long time.
Is the best way to get the paint off to use a chemical stripper and paint brush?

I used some stuff similar to take the paint off the Aisin hubs before I painted them.
I'm hoping the stripper can take it all off after a few passes.
Suggestions?

Oh, this powder coat he will use even has a textured finish to it almost like Ryno, but not as course.
I'm thinking the powder coat will hold up as my ARB is powder coated and holding up very nice.

Same with the Smittybilt nerfs I took off.
They were on there for quite awhile and they are chip & rust free from all the rocks they have encountered.

2krunner

Go to walmart, or autozone and get "airplane stripper".
This stuff has methalyne chloride (sp?) in it and will strip the paint off anything. Just be careful using it, it will take skin as well.:eek:

Michael

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Thanks...
Well, I just got the sliderz off the rig.
Kind of a PITA, but I was able to get them off.
They have to slip off of 3 tubes that are welded to the frame.

Problem now is I know diddly crap about powder coating.
I called another shop that can sand blast them for me and paint them.
This way I don't have to mess with stripping them myself.

But he quoted me $300 on the phone :eek:
He said he'd have to actually see them before a final price.
He also asked if the other cheaper priced shop primes them first, and I said they do not.

He said they should be, and also done with an iron phosphate wash before paint.
Talk about confusing.

I might just end up stripping them myself and painting them.

2krunner

$300, what a ripoff.
There is no more than $5 in materials to p/c the tubes. The iron phosphate does promote adhesion of the p/c and is a good idea.

I personallly would strip and paint them myself. Walmart has a good rust inhibitive panit and it is only a couple of bucks a can. I have used it to paint wheel and the alum. strut tower brace for the Supra, which I also srtipped as well.

If you are hand on and have place to work it is not hard at all.
Michael

Shane

Not all powdercoats are created equal,...


Here's that paint stripper stuff that Michael is talking about...

Careful with this stuff, it'll eat concrete as well and has some really nasty fumes.
:confused:

Corey

iTrader: (1)

That aircraft stripper the local autoparts store here in town has.
Not sure if I am going to do this or not.

I can strip them down outside at my place, then I have two options.

1. Take them back to the builder and have him or his wife repaint them, this time with primer.
They did not use primer the first time.

2. Get 'em powder coated.

No way can I paint them. Any of you that have lived in an apt. or do now know what I'm talking about.
You pretty much pay for your ˟˟˟˟ to get done without having a garage and shelter to work under.

PS, here's a few pics with them off. You can see the 3 tube setup that is welded to the frame where the sliderz bolt onto these tubes.
Also seen are the 3 half moon shaped cuts made with the plasma torch to allow the bars to flex upwards towards the pinch weld seam.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I am taking the easy way out.
I am not prepared right now to get these pups powder coated.
I'l do that next spring when it's warmer out and I can take my time to prep them properly.

The parts that are rusted now are on the bottom.
So I am going to wash them tomorrow, use Griot's Paint Prep, then sand, then shoot them in my driveway or porch.

Just doing the bottoms that are dinged up bad.
I don't need to sand them all the way down, only rough them up a tad, and get rid of the rust bubbles, then shoot the bottom.
What grit sand paper shoud I use?

Corey

iTrader: (1)

This is the best news I have had all day after wondering how I am going to tackle the rust that has set in on there.

The owner of the shop who made my slders is contracting out to a new guy who promises killer powder coating that will stand up to wheelin'.

I may be taking them there this week.
Now get this. The powder coating guy can sand blast them and powder coat them for $40.
Sounds almost to good to be true.

butnut

40 bucks is a steal Corey. That's barely one hour shop time charges for a decent business. Go for it. Would it be a bad idea to 'Rhino' coat the sliders after they are powder coated? Like double protection? Good luck.
butnut

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Hi Brian. I am now just waiting on the owner to get back in contact with the guy.

I think I'll throw the sliderz back on the rig for now though.

The rino coating on the bottom would make it hang up more when sliding over a rock or a big root or log.
At least with the powder coating I can touch up any bare spot with a regular black paint thing like you get at the dealer for touchups.

Right now though I have dime size spots flaking off of the bottom.
Yeah, $40 seems almost to good to be true.

Hopefully I will find out by the end of the week.
It won't be happening this week I don't think.

2krunner

Not to burst your bubble , but NO powdercoat, not even epoxy, is going to live up to sliding over rocks and such, if they are actually functioning as sliders.
If the damage is just from items flung off the tires that is a different story.

Michael

Corey

iTrader: (1)

Yes, they ae going to be used as sliderz to slide over stuff.
The bottoms I can live with the powder coat coming off as I can touch that up with a rattle can.

But the tops and sides of the tubes were getting nicked also and rusting.
That won't happen with powder coat.

The Smitty's I had on there for quite awhile have zero nicks (still for sale by the way) on the top or sides, and only a few scrapes on the bottom from going over logs and rocks.

I'm hoping with the powder coating the tops and sides will stay nick free like the Smitt's did.
Any nick here in the Northwest means rust from the rain we get.

smr4runner

Hey Corey,
Let me know what you find out. I dont care about the underside of the sliders, just the sides and top.

Corey

iTrader: (1)

I'll keep ya in the loop
Jeff seems to check his email late at night like between 10 & 11 PM.

I'm hoping I can drag these over there tomorrow and drop them off.
Either that, or they are going back on for awhile.

Right now one is on the couch on newspaper, and the other one is leaning agaisnt a wll drying.
Put 3 coats of Hammerite paint on the bottoms and sides today.

http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/tando/t...t_sliderz1.jpg

http://www.toyotaoffroad.net/tando/t...t_sliderz2.jpg

Hey, is your back tube the one that goes under the pinch weld fatter like mine too?
You know I did not even notice that until I had them on for a few weeks.