No Fuel/No Fire
#1
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No Fuel/No Fire
I have a 1991 Toyota 4 cylinder Pickup. I let it sit for a couple months and went to start it and it turned over great but never fired. Today I changed the spark plugs and wire set, distributor cap and rotor, still didn't start.
Then I suspected that it was a fuel problem. Troubleshooting this took a long time and I found a few clues which hopefully someone here can help me determine the problem.
I started at the top of the gas tank and followed (2) metal tubes coming from the top of the gas tank and went forward until there was a place to disconnect them. With the lines unhooked I got my wife to turn the engine over. There was no gas coming through the lines when she cranked it. The tank is half full. What does this mean???
Is the fuel pump inside the gas tank?
If you think it could be the fuel pump, how does one troubleshoot the pump?
Isn't it true that when you turn the keyswitch to on but not crank the engine, you should hear a whine noise which is the fuel pump? I am not sure. But I don't hear anything like that.
To further complicate my problem, I bought a fuel filter at Wal Mart which was the wrong one, I bought the one their electronic pad told me was for my vehicle and then I looked all over the truck for a fuel filter that looked like the one I bought (Fram G4191 for $5.00) which is plastic and couldn't find it. Then I called Pep Boys and they told me that it should be a "metal" filter, cost $21.99 and had a different part number.
I would greatly appreciate any help received because I really need this vehicle now.
Thank You!!!
Then I suspected that it was a fuel problem. Troubleshooting this took a long time and I found a few clues which hopefully someone here can help me determine the problem.
I started at the top of the gas tank and followed (2) metal tubes coming from the top of the gas tank and went forward until there was a place to disconnect them. With the lines unhooked I got my wife to turn the engine over. There was no gas coming through the lines when she cranked it. The tank is half full. What does this mean???
Is the fuel pump inside the gas tank?
If you think it could be the fuel pump, how does one troubleshoot the pump?
Isn't it true that when you turn the keyswitch to on but not crank the engine, you should hear a whine noise which is the fuel pump? I am not sure. But I don't hear anything like that.
To further complicate my problem, I bought a fuel filter at Wal Mart which was the wrong one, I bought the one their electronic pad told me was for my vehicle and then I looked all over the truck for a fuel filter that looked like the one I bought (Fram G4191 for $5.00) which is plastic and couldn't find it. Then I called Pep Boys and they told me that it should be a "metal" filter, cost $21.99 and had a different part number.
I would greatly appreciate any help received because I really need this vehicle now.
Thank You!!!
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Thanks 4Crawler!!! This is great!
Does it sound like the fuel pump to you?
When I took the gas lines loose and cranked it shouldn't gas have been pumped?
Thanks
Does it sound like the fuel pump to you?
When I took the gas lines loose and cranked it shouldn't gas have been pumped?
Thanks
#4
Use this to find the correct part number and hop on by to your stealer.
http://www.longotoyota.com/en_US/ go to parts and service to part catalog to find the part number to the filter.
Id also dump maybe gas treatment just to cure up the gas in there its worth a shot.
http://www.longotoyota.com/en_US/ go to parts and service to part catalog to find the part number to the filter.
Id also dump maybe gas treatment just to cure up the gas in there its worth a shot.
#5
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Originally Posted by gpwhite7
Thanks 4Crawler!!! This is great!
Does it sound like the fuel pump to you?
When I took the gas lines loose and cranked it shouldn't gas have been pumped?
Thanks
Does it sound like the fuel pump to you?
When I took the gas lines loose and cranked it shouldn't gas have been pumped?
Thanks
Last edited by 4Crawler; 10-04-2004 at 08:37 AM.
#7
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4 Crawler,
I put in the test jumper on terminals B+ & Fp. The truck did not start but I noticed a few things.
1) With the jumper in place and the ignition switch turned on, but not to the start position I measured the voltage on the jumper with reference to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 10.58 Volts
2) With the jumper out and the ignition switch turned on I measured the voltage on the B+ Terminal with respect to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 12.5 Volts (The same as the battery of course)
Is this normal?
Should the fuel pump pull down the voltage by 2 VDC when the jumper is in?
I am wondering if that is enough voltage to energize the fuel pump.
Do you think the fuel pump is bad?
Please tell me where do I go from here...
Thanks ALOT!!!
I put in the test jumper on terminals B+ & Fp. The truck did not start but I noticed a few things.
1) With the jumper in place and the ignition switch turned on, but not to the start position I measured the voltage on the jumper with reference to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 10.58 Volts
2) With the jumper out and the ignition switch turned on I measured the voltage on the B+ Terminal with respect to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 12.5 Volts (The same as the battery of course)
Is this normal?
Should the fuel pump pull down the voltage by 2 VDC when the jumper is in?
I am wondering if that is enough voltage to energize the fuel pump.
Do you think the fuel pump is bad?
Please tell me where do I go from here...
Thanks ALOT!!!
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#8
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Originally Posted by gpwhite7
4 Crawler,
I put in the test jumper on terminals B+ & Fp. The truck did not start but I noticed a few things.
1) With the jumper in place and the ignition switch turned on, but not to the start position I measured the voltage on the jumper with reference to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 10.58 Volts
2) With the jumper out and the ignition switch turned on I measured the voltage on the B+ Terminal with respect to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 12.5 Volts (The same as the battery of course)
Is this normal?
Should the fuel pump pull down the voltage by 2 VDC when the jumper is in?
I am wondering if that is enough voltage to energize the fuel pump.
Do you think the fuel pump is bad?
Please tell me where do I go from here...
Thanks ALOT!!!
I put in the test jumper on terminals B+ & Fp. The truck did not start but I noticed a few things.
1) With the jumper in place and the ignition switch turned on, but not to the start position I measured the voltage on the jumper with reference to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 10.58 Volts
2) With the jumper out and the ignition switch turned on I measured the voltage on the B+ Terminal with respect to the negative post on the battery.
Results: 12.5 Volts (The same as the battery of course)
Is this normal?
Should the fuel pump pull down the voltage by 2 VDC when the jumper is in?
I am wondering if that is enough voltage to energize the fuel pump.
Do you think the fuel pump is bad?
Please tell me where do I go from here...
Thanks ALOT!!!
It provides a ground connection for the relay coil. Its the relay contacts that send power to the fuel pump. So do you hear the pump running with the ignition on/engine off? Poke your head under the truck on the passenger side, should hear a faint whine from the motor. Or, you should be able to hear the hissing of the fuel pressure regulator, sounds like a slow air leak. If neither audible signs are present, volt meter at the fuel pump connector itself.
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I had the same problem with my 85 when I first picked it up after it sat for over a year. It would turn over, but didn't fire....although it did run on starting fluid for a good 5 seconds.
Turned out to be my injectors, I didn't have any "injector pulse". My mechanic worked on it for me so you might wanna look into that.
Good luck!
Turned out to be my injectors, I didn't have any "injector pulse". My mechanic worked on it for me so you might wanna look into that.
Good luck!
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4Crawler,
I will check the voltage at the pump itsself tonight.
I looked at the schematic and see that when you jumper B+ to Fp that this completely bypassing the Main Relay and Circuit Opening Relay and puts voltage on the wire going directly to the Fuel Pump.
When I did this last night with the Switch ON, it sparked when I put the wire on Fp and the voltage dropped down to 10.5 VDC. This seem to indicate that the Fuel Pump is drawing current but not running.
If I take loose the fuel lines (unhook the rubber hoses from the metal hoses) near the gas tank and the fuel pump is getting voltage, should it pump gas onto the ground there?
Why is there (2) gas lines coming from the tank going to the engine? Is one of them a vent line?
I'll let you know if the voltage is at the pump later.
Thanks ALOT for all your help!!!
I will check the voltage at the pump itsself tonight.
I looked at the schematic and see that when you jumper B+ to Fp that this completely bypassing the Main Relay and Circuit Opening Relay and puts voltage on the wire going directly to the Fuel Pump.
When I did this last night with the Switch ON, it sparked when I put the wire on Fp and the voltage dropped down to 10.5 VDC. This seem to indicate that the Fuel Pump is drawing current but not running.
If I take loose the fuel lines (unhook the rubber hoses from the metal hoses) near the gas tank and the fuel pump is getting voltage, should it pump gas onto the ground there?
Why is there (2) gas lines coming from the tank going to the engine? Is one of them a vent line?
I'll let you know if the voltage is at the pump later.
Thanks ALOT for all your help!!!
#13
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Yours must be wired different than mine. On mine, the test jumper just turns on the CO relay when the ignition is on. If youare getting power to the pump and it is not running then that is your problem. Check the wiring at the pump itself, may be damage to the wires. If not, replace the pump. Feed line to the fuel pressure regulator input and return line from the FPR return side.
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Yours must be wired different than mine. On mine, the test jumper just turns on the CO relay when the ignition is on. If youare getting power to the pump and it is not running then that is your problem. Check the wiring at the pump itself, may be damage to the wires. If not, replace the pump. Feed line to the fuel pressure regulator input and return line from the FPR return side.
Thanks again!!!
#15
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Mine is an '85 and that is what the schematic is from. Not sure if the wire terminal names apply to the later style diagnostic connectors (the '85 does not have those). On mine, my jumper wire goes into the "Fuel Pump Check Connector", no terminals named or labelled. All that does is bypass the AFM Fc-E1 contact than normally holds the CO relay on. What apparently is a weak point on the CO relays is the secondary winding that turns on via the STA-E1 terminals via the ECU-STA output.
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I've got the fsm for my pickup on my computer. Here's a link to the schematic off a '93:http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~nath...28fuelpump.pdf . It looks a bit different from Roger's. That, however is all I can tell you
-Nathan
-Nathan
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Originally Posted by Nathan Buchanan
I've got the fsm for my pickup on my computer. Here's a link to the schematic off a '93:http://www.personal.utulsa.edu/~nath...28fuelpump.pdf . It looks a bit different from Roger's. That, however is all I can tell you
-Nathan
-Nathan
Is this procedure for a 4 cylinder (22-RE) Engine? I am just thinking that I might be needing a procedure for my removing/installing a new fuel pump soon.
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Originally Posted by 4Crawler
Does look like the Fp does bypass the relay. Different set of connections than on my '85. You could always jumper that with a DC ammeter and measure the current flow to the pump.
Thanks for the good ideas
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I unplugged the connector at the fuel pump and took some readings.
With NO jumper on terminals I had 10.5 VDC on the connector pins going to the fuel pump when my wife CRANKED the engine.
With the jumper in place on terminals B+ & Fp and the key switch turned to the ON position/ not START, I had 12.5 VDC on the connector pins going to the fuel pump.
This sounds bad! It ain't pumpin! So doesn't it sound like the "only" thing it could be now is a BAD FUEL PUMP?
If someone has time, could you just make sure this pump on EBAY looks like it will work for my truck (1991 Toyota 4 cylinder)? And is this the only thing I would need if it is bad? I've never done this job before. THANKS!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...925920471&rd=1
With NO jumper on terminals I had 10.5 VDC on the connector pins going to the fuel pump when my wife CRANKED the engine.
With the jumper in place on terminals B+ & Fp and the key switch turned to the ON position/ not START, I had 12.5 VDC on the connector pins going to the fuel pump.
This sounds bad! It ain't pumpin! So doesn't it sound like the "only" thing it could be now is a BAD FUEL PUMP?
If someone has time, could you just make sure this pump on EBAY looks like it will work for my truck (1991 Toyota 4 cylinder)? And is this the only thing I would need if it is bad? I've never done this job before. THANKS!
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...925920471&rd=1