95.5-2004 Tacomas & 96-2002 4Runners 4th gen pickups and 3rd gen 4Runners

No Fuel/No Fire

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Old Oct 5, 2004 | 06:53 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by gpwhite7
Thanks Nathan for the PDF!
Is this procedure for a 4 cylinder (22-RE) Engine? I am just thinking that I might be needing a procedure for my removing/installing a new fuel pump soon.
I'm pretty sure it's the procedure for both the 22re and the 3vze. I have the complete fsm; so just tell me if you need another section. I'd post the whole thing, but I'd have to index about 300 files or so. Maybe sometime when I get adventuresome, hehe. Good luck on replacing it. Fuel pumps really can be a nasty job. It helps for the gas tank to be pretty empty.
-Nathan
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 04:20 AM
  #22  
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Does anyone know how many "ohms" a good fuel pump reads at the connector. I measured mine and it reads 1.4 Megohms.
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 05:58 AM
  #23  
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General rule of thumb for electrical things is V=I*R or V/R=I, so if you have say 14 volts divided by 1.4 million ohms, you'll only have 10 microamps (0.01 milliamps) of current flowing, so hardly enough to power a very low power integrated circuit, let alone run a motor that is pumping fuel at 40 psi.

It can be tricky to measure resistance of something dynamic like a motor, depends on where the brushes are on the commutator and probably whether its been run recently or not. My spare pump measured around 660 ohms at the connector after it had been sitting in my parts box for years. When running dry, it pulls about 1.2 amps, probably pulls more when under load pumping fuel. After I ran it briefly, the resistance then read about 2-3 ohms. Probably due to the brushes wearing away the thin oxide coating on the commutator. This is a typical sort of resistance I would expect for a motor that probably pulls a few amps of current running, so you can double check your measurement this way; V/I=R or 12/3=4 amps.

Last edited by 4Crawler; Oct 6, 2004 at 07:00 AM.
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 09:53 AM
  #24  
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4Crawler,

Thanks for the readings on your fuel pump. This pretty much confirms that my pump is DEAD and needs to be replaced.

I called TOYOTA to get a price and they said mine could have 2 different pumps depending on when it was manufactured in 91. But the price was between $173 & $260 and wanted $500 to do the job (parts & labor).

How difficult and time consuming is this job?

Do I need any additional parts (non-reuseable parts from my truck) or just the pump and maybe a pump screen?

Did you have time to check out that EBAY link I posted last night which has a cheap pump (Under $70) ?

Thanks alot
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Old Oct 6, 2004 | 10:38 AM
  #25  
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If you had a 1st gen 4Runner, 10 minute swap out job, open the access panel under the rear seat, unscrew the old pump, screw in the new one and you are done. You'll need to drain and lower your gas tank, 6 bolts on the skid plate, 6 bolts on the tank, drain plug at the bottom rear.

I'm not 100% sure, but I understand all the fuel pumps are the same (i.e. the motor and pump) its the bracket and plumbing that varies. Different vehicles have different tanks that vary in depth so you need different height brackets to hold the pump in the right spot. As mentioned, I'm not 100% sure of this, but I have no idea what my spare pump is from but it looks like it'll either fit as-is or be swappable.

Quite uncommon for a pump motor to burn out, was the tank run dry at all? That's what'll take one out pretty fast as the gas lubes the pump and cools the motor. Get a pump from a junkyard if you are so inclined or get the eBay one and see if it'll work or get a new one, choice is yours. The screen looks to be cleanable.

And here is an intersting alternative fuel pump source:

Last edited by 4Crawler; Oct 6, 2004 at 11:58 AM.
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 01:17 PM
  #26  
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To get to the fuel pump is it EASIER to drop the fuel tank or remove the truck bed?

Thanks!!!
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Old Oct 7, 2004 | 02:01 PM
  #27  
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Probably a toss up, if you have someone to help lift the bed, that may be the way to go. Dropping the tank is not too hard, assuming you can get the bolts out.
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 05:46 PM
  #28  
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Tank Off/ New Set of Problems

Today I took the gas tank off the truck. A big problem presented itsself when removing one of the hoses so I could drop the tank on the ground. One of the metal tubes coming out of the flange/pump assembly split when I was trying to loosen the nut because it was so rusted. What can you do about that? Toyota says you have to buy the pump mounting bracket which cost $178 and you can only get it from the dealer.

Can you repair a broken tube by placing a rubber hose with some good clamps over it? OR would the fuel leak because it was under so much pressure? I really don't know what the outlet pump pressure is.

Thanks for any help (Especially money saving help) He He !

By the way! I jumpered +12VDC directly to the pump when I got it out of the tank and it didn't run at all, so thanks for all the help diagnosing the problem accurately the first time!!!
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 05:58 PM
  #29  
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I suppose either a new pump and bracket or a used one from the junkyard http://www.car-part.com/ or maybe try and find a shop to repair the broken line. Pressure is in the 40-50 psi range. If you go the junkyard route, you can grab the whole thing, pump, bracket, etc.
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 07:41 PM
  #30  
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4 Crawler,
Can you repair a broken tube by placing a rubber hose with some good clamps over it? Is that just looking for trouble or do you think it would work?

Thanks
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Old Oct 9, 2004 | 07:50 PM
  #31  
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Never tried it, I suppose hook it up and see what happens. There must be a reason Toyota used all crimped flexible fuel line between the tank and the fuel filter. Should be no big deal to braze or solder on a new tube, if there is enough of the old tubing sticking out. Find some tubing to fit over the ends snugly and solder or braze it together.

Seems if you need a working pump, just grab the whole thing from a junkyard. You can probably get one from a 4Runner, easier to get out through the rear access panel, may have to swap the parts around to match yours.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 12:36 PM
  #32  
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4Crawler,

I got the old pump bracket fixed at work. Some machinest completely unsoldered the old tubing and put all new in. That saved $178! I'll let you know the final outcome after I put it all back together this weekend.

Again, Thanks for all the great suggestions. This job normally would've cost $450 parts and $200 labor. It's been a pain but well worth it. It cost $104 for the fuel pump, that's all so far.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 04:52 PM
  #33  
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Is it acceptable to wash out the inside of a gas tank with WATER to get the rust chips out of it? If not, what is the recommended method of cleaning a tank?

Thank You
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 04:58 PM
  #34  
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I don't think you'll get much rust out with just the water. I remember when a friend of mine was cleaning out a gas tank, he used some awful cleaner and a carton of BBs in the tank. He shook the piss out of the tank with the BBs in it, knocking loose all the rust. He repeated this 2 or 3 times. He had a really nasty tank though. I guess it depends how bad your tank is. Use a can of carb cleaner and some gasoline to wash it out at least.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 04:59 PM
  #35  
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Probably want to use something like this:

http://eastwoodco.com/shopping/produ...yword=gas+tank

or this:

http://www.por15.com/product.asp?productid=357

The POR-15 Metal Ready is a phosphoric acid wash, similar to CLR or LimeAway or its also used in the metal etching liquid for treating bare steel for painting.
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Old Oct 11, 2004 | 05:58 PM
  #36  
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GREAT!

Thanks guys!!! I am greatly indebted to this forum and it's great members and moderators.
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Old Oct 16, 2004 | 05:36 PM
  #37  
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Smile It's running!!!

Hey,

I just wanted to THANK everybody involved in helping me get this truck running again. Connecting all the hoses and wiring and securing the tank was a "pain" but I got through it. It started right up (2ND try) and I am very happy to have her back!

THANK YOU!!!

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