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Engine knoking when cold!

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Old 06-13-2005, 06:15 AM
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I agree that warming up a motor for 5 minutes in the summer is very wasteful. There is absolutely no good reason to idle a motor for 5 minutes when it is warm out, my truck will get up to operating temp within that time in the middle of the Winter. I do usually start my truck and let it idle for a few minutes in the Winter, but in the Summer I just let it run for 30 seconds or so, that is plenty. And really, how often does it get below 10 degrees in WV, I live in central MA and it doesn't get below 10 all that much.
Old 06-13-2005, 06:36 AM
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My 2nd gen used to knock a lot so I switched to Plus (89 octane) and it got a little quieter and then the next tank I switched to Premium (91 octane) and after that it was quiet as a bug...then I got a valve adjustment because the dealer recommended it...it was the quietest running 3vz I had heard...I would recommend springing for the few bucks extra a month and saving up for a valve adjustment. As for oil and filter, you're much better off using the stock Toyota filters. As for that high mileage oil, I don't think it does jack I used it in my 2nd gen for a while (140k) and my buddy at the dealer said that it was causing some build up inside so I switched to Mobil I which is what all the Toyota dealerships use for their oil changes and it ran smooth as silk man!

Those are just my experiences, I can't guarantee it'll work for your rig but sure as heck is worth a shot!

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Old 06-13-2005, 09:12 AM
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Originally Posted by pat161
I agree that warming up a motor for 5 minutes in the summer is very wasteful. There is absolutely no good reason to idle a motor for 5 minutes when it is warm out, my truck will get up to operating temp within that time in the middle of the Winter. I do usually start my truck and let it idle for a few minutes in the Winter, but in the Summer I just let it run for 30 seconds or so, that is plenty. And really, how often does it get below 10 degrees in WV, I live in central MA and it doesn't get below 10 all that much.
Don't know what part of WV you lived in but it gets down to 10 degrees alot here,Lol. Never said anything about 10 below but it does get cold in these mountains. How do you think our ski resorts run so long.
My defrosters won't even work that fast and I sure want to see where I'm going and do it without my teeth rattleing and my truck sputtering,Lol.
I'm glad you can just start yours and take off , sure wish I could but I prefer to let it run a few minutes. Never been in that big of a hurry but I always had a habit of allowing mysefl time to get to where I have to be.
If his engine is already rattleing and it runs better after it warms up then that's what he should do to make it last longer. Wander why it quits rattling after it warms up...Ummm Maybe it's a good idea to let it warm up a little .
To each his own , I was just offering what has been my experience over the years. Mike
Old 06-13-2005, 09:51 AM
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Not sure if anybody had noticed but judging by BearTrackers sig, hes got some pretty tiny tires on that Taco! Just messin with ya buddy.


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Old 06-13-2005, 03:25 PM
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4x4 Fink, If you know how to drive off road you don't need big tires!,Lol. Someone else mentioned that too. What I really ment was that it came with 16" wheels from the factory. (31") tires. Mike
Old 07-09-2005, 11:50 AM
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My car runs better after i warm it up. I i dont warm it up winter or summer it runs like crap. Here in the rockies you got to warm up your car not only to warm up the engine but also to warm up the inside of the car because i just hate getting into a cold car. So Beartracker i know what exactly you are talking about.
Old 07-09-2005, 12:04 PM
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I thought it was better to drive the vehicle lightly after it gains oil pressure.
It heats the vehicle up quicker than just letting it idle.

EDIT: Talked about here. http://www.automotivehelper.com/topic1446.htm

Last edited by 4-RUNNIN' FREAK; 07-09-2005 at 12:06 PM.
Old 07-10-2005, 02:32 PM
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I don't care what kind of gas you run, it is not going to effect a cold knock situation as the original poster has described. Piston slap could be responsible, and if so just go easy till it is warmed up. allowing an engine to completely warm up at idle is rather ineffective, and certainly not necessary. now if it is really cold (less than 30deg F) I'd say let it idle at least 30sec before putting it in gear. longer if it is less than 0deg.

There is one other condition that will give you a cold knock. Carbon build up on the pistons and head. This is very common on 3rzfe and 4rzfe engines but can happen on any engine.

This can usually be remedied by bringing the engine to operating temp. And you take about 16oz of water and connect one of the small vacuum lines on your throttle body so that it sucks the water out of the bottle while you hold the engine speed at 2500 to 3000.

Targetnut

this water will blast most of the carbon from the piston and combustion chamber and will usually get rid of the cold knock if carbon is the cause.
Old 07-10-2005, 07:42 PM
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Are you still running your original catalytic converter? If so, I would say that is a prime suspect for an engine that runs rough only when cold and runs normal once its warm.
Old 07-26-2005, 01:40 PM
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i am pretyy sure my catalyc converter is dead and was dead a long time ago. But where i live we dont need to do emmision tests.
Old 07-26-2005, 01:59 PM
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Try using pure synthetic oil. You would not believe how much petroleum oil thickens up when it starts to get cold. Getting oil to the parts quicker and keeping a stable oil film is always a good thing.
Old 08-13-2005, 05:03 AM
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if you do switch your '90 vehicle to synthetic oil it would be a good idea to clean the engine first.
Old 08-17-2005, 10:57 AM
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i dont think switching to synthetic oil will be a good idea sinse it burns oil and leaks oil also... i will be putting a quart of oil everyday if i do switch to synthetic oil.
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