pfdaxe

Does anyone know if the knock sensor is "bad" and need to be replaced when it I get a code 0325 CEL or is it just warning me that the knocking is bad? Anyone have a picture of the location below the S/C? No matter what I do as far as tuning, I still knock bad. Could a (bad) knock sensor mess with my timing and retard?

Thanks

86tuning

The wires fail a lot more often than the sensors themselves. You can check it if you have an oscilloscope.

Fixed lots of the knock wires on these vehicles, but I haven't worked on a s/c one with this problem yet.

Have fun!

MTL_4runner

The best way to verify if it is the actual knock sensor or not is to replace the wire harness since it is exposed to extreme heat constantly and has been known to fail (especially when touched or disturbed since the initial install......like in the case of removing the intake manifold) and it's also alot cheaper than a sensor. It's so bad that many dealers replace them automatically every time the intake manifold comes off. You could replace the harness and if you still get the same code after, you'll know it is the sensor itself.

If you want to do it once and be done with it (which is what I would do), then get a new knock sensor and replace the sensor (keep in mind you can't return electrical parts, so once you buy one at the dealer, you own it) and the harness at the same time and you're problem should be history. The only test you can do on a knock sensor according to the FSM is a continuity test (there is only a single wire output on them so check for continuity using a multimeter from that to the body of the sensor......if there is continuity between them, the sensor is bad and needs to be replaced). You should replace the harness regardless of how it tests.

You're not the only one that's happened to:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/c...30-saga-56080/

If you need the knock sensor wire P/N, it's in my buildup here:
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...27277#msg27277

pfdaxe

Thanks Jamie:

I sent a message to midiwall for pics since they have expired on his post. Hopefully this may solve my problem. I can't seem to get the tuning dialed in no matter what I do and under WOT it's a dawg and bogs down. The 0325 CEL comes on under boost @ around 2500 rpm. I can clear it but of course it comes back. I have another vehicle so I don't have to rush when I do the tear down. Doesn't sound too hard, just time consuming. Do you have a part number for the knock sensor??

Thanks,

Paul

MTL_4runner

Paul, the truck is bogging because it is retarding the timing badly due to the knock sensor problem. It is basically castrating the truck's power and will do so until you get it fixed.....it's not something you can ignore and hope it goes away or that you can tune the truck to work with it.

Tearing the intake off isn't that bad, all you need is the 2 plenum gaskets (upper and lower) and a set of intake gaskets (it's a set of 2 as well). I've seen people reuse gaskets but it's not a good practice IMHO, but you're call on that though. You should be able to do it in about 4-5 hours if you take your time and clean all the gasket surfaces well before you reinstall everything. Not nearly as bad as tearing the head off the motor like I am doing.

You can see a pic of the knock sensors here (harness has already been removed in the pic):
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...22768#msg22768

pfdaxe

Great pic thanks! I see what looks like 2 sensors in the pic. Which one is the knock sensor that I should be looking at?

MTL_4runner

Bank 1 is on the passenger's side and Bank 2 is on the driver's side.
Your code was for Bank 1 so I'll let you connect the dots.

pfdaxe

Thanks. This will help. So it's not a good idea to just bypass sensor 1 and splice it at the ECU like I have read? Do you have a part #? Are the 2 sensors the same part #?

Thanks!

MTL_4runner

No, no and yes respectively.

pfdaxe

I just call Toyota and heres the price quote:

Sensor # 89615-12050 $178.31
Harness# 90980-07381 $15.00

I checked with Checker and AutoZone and they were about $20 cheaper.

pfdaxe

What is the differance between Denso Type and Matsus**ta Type? Is it just brand preferance?

MTL_4runner

Wow, that's more than I thought (if it makes you feel any better I paid $36 CDN for the knock sensor harness alone!!!). If you have a 2nd vehicle then tear it all down one night, check the knock sensors for continuity (esp bank 1).....hopefully you'll find something conclusive when you test them. Then buy what you need the next day (they may not have it in stock so it could be 2 days to get the parts) and then reassemble everything the following night. I wouldn't mess around with non dealer parts to save a few bucks on those since they are such a PITA to get to and you'll be out even more money for another set of plenum/intake gaskets if you need to redo it. It sucks but if it were my truck I'd just replace them both (knock sensor and wire harness) and be done with it.

jrock

i need to order the knock sensor wiring harness...which one for the P0330 code..

Harness# 90980-07381 $15.00 ...which is just one grounding wire.(toy part guys said to just get cheap wire from autozone to replace this one-$2),

or,

Knock sensor wire (OEM Toyota P/N 82219-34010). $44 bucks, $22 after forum discount from sean at toyota 619.270.3137