jreask

I just purchased a 2001 SR5 with 198K on it and it has a pretty good maintenance record on the CarFax, with all of the work done at the dealer. The only thing that hasn't been done is the timing belt and waterpump. I took it to the dealer to get the belt and waterpump replaced today. They will also replace the waterpump, tensioners, cam and crank seals and the front belts. The dealer quoted me between $650 and $700 to do the work. This was actually less expensive than the local mechanic who would use non OEM parts. I would not have purchased the truck if I didn't think it would go for another 100K. Does anyone have 300K on their 3RD generation 4Runner ?

jreask

Here is a pic of my other baby:

Lysmachia

Hey, just a side note - when posting a new thread, try and use more descriptive titles than just "Can I get some opinions please?" I updated yours so you might get a better response!

Cheers!

jreask

Will do. Sorry for the ambiguity.

FogRunner

I have a 01 SR5 4WD and its at about 280K miles. The only problem I've had with it is the inevitable weeping valve cover seals and the drivers side power door lock.

One of the biggest things with keeping a 01-02 4runner from costing you BIG MONEY is to keep the brake system clean/flushed out. Unlike the earlier years the 01-02 have a $1000+ master cylinder for the traction control. If you allow the brake fluid to go bad it will cause corrosion in the master cylinder which will cause failure.

Some may say its excessive but I bleed my brakes once a year when I'm doing my annual radiator, transfer case, transmission, front and rear diff fluid change.


FOG

J2F42C

Along with flushing the brake system as Fog mentioned, these are a couple of other problems that occur with regularity on the board here:

1. Leaking inner axle seals. The seals that keep the diff fluid in the axle begin to leak. If not taken care of quickly, the problem can manifest into having to replace the rear shoes, the rear bearings, etc. The biggest PITA IMHO.
2. Lower ball joint failure. If you see a tear in the boot, replace both sides.
3. Antifreeze leaking into the transmission fluid and ruining the transmission. Use the search engine (great BTW) to see how everyone has tackled this problem.
4. Starter contacts. With that many miles, they should have been changed by now.
5. Leaking valve covers. Again, use the search engine.
6. At this time of the year, check the fan clutch. They have been failing often this summer of heat.

I like the pony car. 2011? Give me an original 65/66 AC 427 Shelby Cobra and I'll die with a smile on my face...

Potomacduck

I have a '99 with 283,000 miles. I just took my family on vacation in it on a 1,300 miles round trip. The vehicle is in great shape.

I would listen to what guys recommend here and BUDGET about $3,000 to do some extensive maintenance.

Along with the timing belt and waterpump, I'd replace the radiator, do a trans flush, replace ALL fluids on the vehicle, a new MAF and O2 sensors.......that's for starters. Be patient with the car and let it tell you what it needs.

gdutch

This stuff is all good advice. That dealer quote is a very good price, I would jump at it. J2's list is all important stuff; if you hear the term "strawberry milkshake" they're talking about #3 on there. That's also your best bet as far as searching for threads on the topic. Also, if you're looking for a cheap and fast way to add a few HP and give your 4Runner some more grunt, do a search for the deckplate mod. Welcome to Yotatech!

FogRunner

Honestly I think the deck plate mod does nothing but make the engine sound throatier which gives the feeling of more power. If you ever go through high water or your area is prone to having large puddles form in the street during rainstorms I would highly avoid the deck plate mod. All it takes hitting a good water puddle without the plate installed for the engine to get a snoot full of water.

FOG

gdutch

That's why if I ever went wheeling (which I don't, it's a 2wd) I'd put the deckplate back in Besides, even with a stock airbox, if you go through high water the stock elbow is just as likely to pick up water as the deckplate, since they're at the same level. Now it wouldn't be as much, but if you're going through water that comes up to the airbox without a snorkel, well. . . you deserve to flood your engine!

The deckplate made a difference for my top end performance on the highway. I'm not sure if it added much if anything to my low-end torque, but the engine is noticeably happier when it's revving high and requires a lot of air.

DailyDrive

As much as the deckplate is a gimmick, it doesn't really increase the chances to hydrolock the engine. You can spray into the opening with a garden hose, all that will happen is that it will turn to water vapor on the other side of the air filter.

jreask

The Runner is back from the dealer. They replaced the timing belt, waterpump, cam and crank seals, all front belts. They said the tensioners and pulleys were OK. I wish they would have changed them just for insurance. I also had them flush the radiator and do the transmission flush and fill service. All in all it cost over $900, but I think it is well worth it. The truck really does not run any differently but I have the peace of mind about the waterpump and timing belt. This particular dealer is in the top 10% in service in the United States. I did ask about the strawberry milkshake and he said in his over 20 years of service, that he has NEVER seen it happen. I appreciate all of the replies and I got some good advice from you veterans.

Joe

rob17san

for any future thread readers, I would avoid flushing and filling auto transmissions with high miles. I have heard horror stories of them going out shortly after. Not only on toyotas either. just a warning.

gdutch

So you just leave all the old fluid in there? Gonna need a bit more evidence before I believe that wild of a claim.

pruney81

I would just do a couple drain and fills with new fluid over a period of time maybe every 2-3 months for a year to clean it out. There is a school of thought that the old fluid will gunk up and hold things together. When you do a full flush and filter you dislodge whatever may be holding things together.