Best Place to Pull 12V from?
11-16-2006, 08:09 AM
#1
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Best Place to Pull 12V from?
Hello,
I am re-wiring all my Split Second / URD boxes and need to find the best place to pull a solid 12V line from. I was having troubles with the boxes "malfunctioning" and found that I was not getting a full 12V to all of them. I need a good source to pull the power from and am also going to re-work all the grounds. Should I splice into a line that has a 15A-20A fuse or run a new line from the back of the fuse box and put an in-line fuse? Any recommendations?? Thanks.
I am re-wiring all my Split Second / URD boxes and need to find the best place to pull a solid 12V line from. I was having troubles with the boxes "malfunctioning" and found that I was not getting a full 12V to all of them. I need a good source to pull the power from and am also going to re-work all the grounds. Should I splice into a line that has a 15A-20A fuse or run a new line from the back of the fuse box and put an in-line fuse? Any recommendations?? Thanks.
11-16-2006, 08:18 AM
#2
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Personally, I have no idea what a URD box is. However, if you're looking for a solid line, best bet is always to run a (fused) line straight to the battery.
11-16-2006, 08:24 AM
#3
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The URD box is a piggyback box that helps control fuel / timing / 02 sensors etc.. I can't pull directly from the battery as I need it to be switched so it turns off when the ignition is - otherwise they will be powered all the time and run down my battery..
11-16-2006, 08:28 AM
#4
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I got a auxillary fuse box from Summit that has ign-on sources with the use of a relay. I tapped the ign wire into the ECU's power, and then plugged the real power into the battery. This way, when the ign is on, the relay activates and therefore the FTC turns on too. This would be the most direct way of getting 12V to the FTC without having it be on all the time.
URD also suggests that you could tap the FTC straight into the ECU's power, but I wanted to have a separate fuse for the FTC.
URD also suggests that you could tap the FTC straight into the ECU's power, but I wanted to have a separate fuse for the FTC.
11-16-2006, 08:43 AM
#5
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I got a auxillary fuse box from Summit that has ign-on sources with the use of a relay. I tapped the ign wire into the ECU's power, and then plugged the real power into the battery. This way, when the ign is on, the relay activates and therefore the FTC turns on too. This would be the most direct way of getting 12V to the FTC without having it be on all the time.
URD also suggests that you could tap the FTC straight into the ECU's power, but I wanted to have a separate fuse for the FTC.
URD also suggests that you could tap the FTC straight into the ECU's power, but I wanted to have a separate fuse for the FTC.
Besides adding another box to the back of my dash (gettin pretty crowded) - is there another line that would be as good to pull from?
Last edited by Greedy; 11-16-2006 at 08:51 AM.
11-16-2006, 08:56 AM
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11-16-2006, 08:56 AM
#7
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Pull a fused 10/12 gauge wire right from the battery.
for a more eleigent solution run that large 10ga wire to an axu fuse box and give each item your wireing up its own 5 amp fuse or whatever.
if you need accessory key'd power use a piggyback fuse and run the line from the piggyback to a relay to switch the large 12ga supply to your accessories.
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11-16-2006, 09:07 AM
#8
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11-16-2006, 09:55 AM
#9
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It's the Painless Wiring "Cirkit Boss" ($59.95), with 4 ign-on circuits and 3 constant-on circuits.
Link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It was super easy to set up, and looks very professional when done. I would recommend taking all of the things you currently have spliced into the ECU's power, and moving them to the block, and then splice the "ign hot" wire on the Cirkit Boss into the ECU. Then you have 4 ign-hot sources coming straight from the battery (and they're only on when the ECU is on, but not when the key is in ACC, such as for listening to the radio). This also gives you 3 constant hot circuits for other accessories you want to power, such as lights or whatever. Also good, is it is "weatherproof" making it safe to set up under your hood.
I also added black plastic wire conduit around the wires in my engine bay, so you really can't even tell it is an aftermarket accessory. Looks totally OEM.
Link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It was super easy to set up, and looks very professional when done. I would recommend taking all of the things you currently have spliced into the ECU's power, and moving them to the block, and then splice the "ign hot" wire on the Cirkit Boss into the ECU. Then you have 4 ign-hot sources coming straight from the battery (and they're only on when the ECU is on, but not when the key is in ACC, such as for listening to the radio). This also gives you 3 constant hot circuits for other accessories you want to power, such as lights or whatever. Also good, is it is "weatherproof" making it safe to set up under your hood.
I also added black plastic wire conduit around the wires in my engine bay, so you really can't even tell it is an aftermarket accessory. Looks totally OEM.
Last edited by mastacox; 11-16-2006 at 10:03 AM.
11-16-2006, 10:35 AM
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It's the Painless Wiring "Cirkit Boss" ($59.95), with 4 ign-on circuits and 3 constant-on circuits.
Link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It was super easy to set up, and looks very professional when done. I would recommend taking all of the things you currently have spliced into the ECU's power, and moving them to the block, and then splice the "ign hot" wire on the Cirkit Boss into the ECU. Then you have 4 ign-hot sources coming straight from the battery (and they're only on when the ECU is on, but not when the key is in ACC, such as for listening to the radio). This also gives you 3 constant hot circuits for other accessories you want to power, such as lights or whatever. Also good, is it is "weatherproof" making it safe to set up under your hood.
I also added black plastic wire conduit around the wires in my engine bay, so you really can't even tell it is an aftermarket accessory. Looks totally OEM.
Link:
http://store.summitracing.com/partde...5&autoview=sku
It was super easy to set up, and looks very professional when done. I would recommend taking all of the things you currently have spliced into the ECU's power, and moving them to the block, and then splice the "ign hot" wire on the Cirkit Boss into the ECU. Then you have 4 ign-hot sources coming straight from the battery (and they're only on when the ECU is on, but not when the key is in ACC, such as for listening to the radio). This also gives you 3 constant hot circuits for other accessories you want to power, such as lights or whatever. Also good, is it is "weatherproof" making it safe to set up under your hood.
I also added black plastic wire conduit around the wires in my engine bay, so you really can't even tell it is an aftermarket accessory. Looks totally OEM.
Thanks!
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