SuaveGato

Hello folks,

This is my first time “building a wheeler” and although I am quite capable mechanically, I don’t know much about the options and configurations of the different lift options. I have a stock 1996 Tacoma V6 4x4 5 speed and a pretty specific Use for it. Just wondering if y’all might give me some input as to what you think my best lift configuration might be for my needs?

First of all, from what I have gleaned so far, the std. Fab tech, trail master etc. 4” IFS lift kits ARE NOT the way to go… They are expensive, invasive and just not that functional, is that true?

My primary purpose of the truck is as a hunting vehicle. It will need to take sometimes heavy loads of camping gear, and/or camper shell and/or a gear rack and even towing a quad trailer sometimes as well, so the suspension will have to be somewhat “beefy”. I don’t plan on doing any real serious rock crawling but some minor stuff for sure, just no Rubicon, gate keeper type trips etc. I basically want a truck that can and will scramble up some pretty nasty 4x4 roads & trails, but not Volkswagen sized boulders, get me through basic mud situations and creek crossings, be able to cruise along at a god clip on washboard and rutted up roads, smoothing them out some and handle some weight & towing, That’s about it. Asking too much?

So far I am looking at 32x11.5x15 tires but that is still up in the air. From what I understand, those will fit nicely with no or minimal rubbing and or trimming needed and I don’t want to change any gearing or lose power with real big tires. I have the stock 15” rims now and can use them unless there is some good reason I should up size to 16”? Will 16” rims give me more clearance? But enough more than 15” to justify buying a new set? Not looking to break the bank here.

I found some good info. here: https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...ht=tacoma+lift
But I’m not sure if that will work for my load and towing needs?

I’d like to lift it at least some for aesthetic reasons if nothing else but more clearance would be nice too of course and I’m not opposed to cutting the fenders and or adding flares either, I like the way they look anyway. I have some sliders to weld onto it too and need to get some tube bumpers.

Please help, any and all good information is much appreciated, I’ve got to get it done in the next month & ½ or so, before hunting season…



Thank you,
biGjOhn

pmbazus

I have a 2004 with 32.11.50x15 BFG AT. I currently have a ToyTec 2.5 inch spacer in the front and a ToyTec 2 inch schackle in the rear. It is a good setup for me. The tires do not rub. The ride is a little rougher than stock but not bad at all. I am thinking about going with a OME 881 lift. Call ToyTec. The OME lift might be good for you. The spacers ar OK for me.

4unner4life

Keep your 15" rims; Tires are alot cheaper for them. If you don't mind some humming then get some mud terrains. Also one thing to consider is a lunch box locker, like the Lockrite. The locker is the best bang for the buck, its only about $250.

SuaveGato

Hello and thank you for the reply and info. I definitely plan on putting aggressive tires on it since it is not a DD and only for hunting / funning off road... Except for maybe the occasional trip to Home Depot etc... gotta keep it lubed in between hunting trips anyway right? LOL. Thanks for the scoop on the 15" rims, I figured I'd keep them since that will save me the cost of buying new ones and as you say, the 15" tires are cheaper too... I had just heard of a lot of guys running 16" and wondered if there was some big compelling reason to or if it was just a modest improvement and 15" would be fine for my purposes? Sounds like I'm fine with the 15's. Thanks.

Could you expand on this "lunch box locker"? I assume it is a locking rear differential? Is it full time locked or can you take it in & out? if full time, how does that effect the handling, tire wear etc. on the street? Cuz I will have to be driving this to the hunting spots often... Any more info would be great, thanks.

biGjOhn

neliconcept

the lockrite.. which I have is not fulltime.. but it isnt selectable either.. its engaged by use of gaspedal by kicking it a bit to get out of sticky situations.. and you will engage it if you take accelerate into turns too which can chirp the tires. It took a while to get used to mine because of the clicking and stuff but I used it up at Tellico and didnt have an issue in the small area that I did wheel at

SuaveGato

So is that pretty much the general consensus of opinion here… the Lock Rite locker is the best way to go as far as lockers go? $210 seems pretty reasonable to me for a locking rear end. What is the “lunch box” just the nick name or model of the LockRite?

Also, no further info. re: my lift needs? I really need to get cracking on this lift ASAFP and don’t know where to start? Forgot to also mention, would like to add a 1” body lift if for no other reason would allow me to weld my sliders onto the frame up a little higher. Right now the tubes that connect the sliders to the frame barely fit in between the bottom of the body panel and the bottom of the frame. Would be nice to have a little gap in both places…

Bueller?

Thanks,
biGjOhn

Buck01

I would suggest a 2 inch body lift. I think that will let you clear the bigger tires you are wanting and allow room for your sliders. That will kill 2 birds with one lift. Then get your locker and be all set. Body lifts are fairly inexpensive in comparison to other types of lifts. Body lift will fit your bigger tires and keep more weight down low not change your suspension or ride.

Just my thoughts on the matter.

SuaveGato

Thanks Buck,
I was thinking, granted, I am a novice about this stuff so that’s a dangerous thing for me to do but… I thought that I would do both a SMALL body lift and also some kind of suspension mods. and lift. The body lift just for tire clearance and mounting the sliders etc. but I do want to BEEF UP my suspension too. A little taller would be good but also since I will be carrying some heavy loads I want to beef it up as well… I’m afraid if I just leave it stock, not only will it not have the performance and clearance that I am thinking I want & need but I’m not sure if it can / will take the pounding with the extra weight? seems it might sag quite a bit if left stock?

I think that the PO must have carried some heavy loads too, he was in construction and the shocks are TOTALLY shot and so I’m sure the coil & leaf springs have also been worked pretty hard, so if I’m going to need to replace them all anyway, might as well beef them up? Right now it rocks & rolls over bumps on the freeway like boat going through the soup… spongy and dangerously rolling side to side…


Thanks,
biGjOhn

SuaveGato

Man, it seems like the more people I talk to and the more info. (opinions) I get, the more contradiction I hear and the more confused I get?

SHOCKS:
Some swear by Billie’s some say they are too long, cause binding and aren’t even valved right for this type of application… that they are for race cars and are too stiff for wheelers?

Others claim that N91’s are too soft, and TRD’s are the way to go or the other one’s I can’t remember the name? Toikio or something?

COIL OVERS:
I have also had some rave about coils and some poo poo them… there does seem to be some consistency on that though… that the coil overs aren’t right for MY SPECIFIC application but are great for fast running desert and sand, Baja type stuff. But NOT good for Sierra granite, “bouldery” trails, wet, muddy sloshing around and deep snow etc. Some say that those are for smoothing out high speed bouncing and rolling and not for lower speed mountain type wheeling, which is what I need. They say they are generally too stiff and the aluminum doesn’t hold up the wet, muddy, snowy conditions without corroding…?

SPRINGS & SPACERS:
Many swear by the Tundra 2x4 or 4x4 coils with a small spacer (3/8 in. approx.) but others, say not to do the spacers? Others have said that the TRD coils would be way to stiff, yet those who have actually used them say otherwise…

LEAFS:
As much contradiction here as everywhere else… some have said just go with an add a leaf and shackles, that will be great, while others poo poo that saying that with my rear springs (the old flat kind with 3 leafs and the one big thick overload spring) that add a leafs will be crap for that since there is virtually no arc…

The only thing that it seems will be the best to do in the rear at least is to just get a custom set of Alcans made but that’s just this side of $500 with tax & shipping etc… Any other suggestions on the rear from anyone?

BODY LIFT:
This is the only one area that everyone seems to agree on, Roger Brown at crawler… So that is an easy decision, a 1” spacer kit if for no other reason so that I will have more room to weld my sliders on. And just over $100 for the whole kit, Phew, one easy decision…

I have talked to 2 different shops that do lifts, Sonoran Steel & ToyTec and although they are both very helpful & knowledgeable, they contradict what each other says and sells… leaving a noob like me baffled? maybe there just isn't a "right" answer and it's all subjective oppinion based stuff? I just wish that I could get some straight dope from some folks who have nothing to gain from me and have done what I am looking to do and share their findings? Hopefully some will chime in and help me? I would be eternally grateful and telepathically send some karma your way…

Anyone have any more input to help or further confuse me?

P.S. heading up to the Sierras for the weekend with my lady to fish & play and hopfully comune with the Granite gawds to figure out what lift I will need for this truck?


Thanks,
biGjOhn

BeachRNR

I am curious as to what kind of conflicting info?

SLC97SR5

I'm running OME 891 Coils and N86 shocks in the rear and Tundra TRD coils up front with a 3/8" spacer and the N91s shock. I can't think of a better all around setup except for maybe the all OEM lift from Sonoran Steel. I have not tried the OEM lift but Steve wouldn't put it together if it wasn't better than his previous suggestions. The OME N91s are NOT to soft in my opinion, they have great rebound and compression qualties. Spend some time at sonoransteel.com and PM Steve for more info.

SuaveGato

Well, I’m not looking to start any bad blood here or throw any stones. Both people that I spoke to at those two respective places were both very friendly, helpful, and apparently knowledgeable. I just noticed that some things that they said contradicted each other as I listed above… Mostly coil overs vs. springs & spacers, shackles, add a leafs & custom springs… Maybe there is no “right” answer but it does get confusing when some are saying one thing is best for my application and someone else says that it is NOT the way to go and suggests something else…? That’s why I posted here, to see what all of you who have put the rubber to the rock have to say and what y’all think?

thanks,
biGjOhn

sschaefer3

I won't do spacers or add-a-leafs. I only do full replacement coils and new custom leaf spring packs.

I have had my share of spacers and it's not the spacer that is bad, it's that the stock coils you got from Toyota are probably not the best. Some years had much better coils than others.

As for an add-a-leaf versus a full custom leaf pack, that is an easy one.

sschaefer3

Like I said, the spacers are fine, it's the stock coils that are not.

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/show...=sonoran+steel