The anatomy of a CV
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The anatomy of a CV
I finally broke a CV.
I don't have any pics of the obstacle, but it was worthy. I was trying to climb a 4' ish ledge with a foot deep puddle at the bottom. I was turned hard driver to get the driver tire to climb bause my approach angle wasn't good enough. The passenger was fully drooped into the puddle with little to no traction, so I was biasing the brakes to get the TrueTrac to grab...all I heard was snap, snap, snap, BANG. I really expected more drama, a little disappointing. 35 mins later I had the CV replaced and was going again.
So, that's what they look like inside.
I don't have any pics of the obstacle, but it was worthy. I was trying to climb a 4' ish ledge with a foot deep puddle at the bottom. I was turned hard driver to get the driver tire to climb bause my approach angle wasn't good enough. The passenger was fully drooped into the puddle with little to no traction, so I was biasing the brakes to get the TrueTrac to grab...all I heard was snap, snap, snap, BANG. I really expected more drama, a little disappointing. 35 mins later I had the CV replaced and was going again.
So, that's what they look like inside.
Last edited by Albuquerque Jim; 08-23-2006 at 07:38 AM.
#2
The brake biasing is the ticket to get those Tru-Trac's to hook up but as I found out our front ends don't like it too much. I grenaded my ring gear and carrier last year in the same situation.
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I like the True Trac. In most situations it works great. However, on more extreme obstacles it lets me down where an ARB should let me walk right up. I wish there was an LSD/Locker like the Detroit Electrac for the Dana 44.
The biasing issue will be solved shortly...RD90
The biasing issue will be solved shortly...RD90
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Originally Posted by Gallep
No wonder it broke... It looks like you ran out of grease.
Last edited by Albuquerque Jim; 08-23-2006 at 08:48 AM.
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Originally Posted by Albuquerque Jim
LOL, believe me, when I tore it apart there was plenty of grease...
AHHHH, I was just commenting on your thorough cleaning job. Well done!
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#8
Abq Jim, what method do you use to swap CV's so quick (35min)? Do you remove the tire and unbolt the 4 bolts under the LCA and swing everything out of the way or do you have a better way? I've re-booted mine so the whole process took about 4hrs in the garage. I can't remember really how much was involved just in R&R.
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Yep, take off the wheel, remove the hub (manual Hubs takes longer), remove the 4 bottom bolts, take out the shaft, slide in a new one, reverse.
I had a guy helping me, handing me tools. It was pretty smooth. I bet I can get it down to under 30min...
I had a guy helping me, handing me tools. It was pretty smooth. I bet I can get it down to under 30min...
#12
they're the exact same. it's not much work at all. you can actually do it w/o removing the tire if you want, but it's more cumbersome with all that weight on the knuckle as you swing it out of the way to swap the shaft.
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Originally Posted by 914runner
Do you plan on replacing the whole diff assembly when you go with the ARB or just the diff? Are you going to sell your truetrac?
Thanks
Thanks
Originally Posted by Tanto
Maybe it's just me, but I think it's still easier to pop the dust cover off, remove the cotter pin and crown nut and work the CV out from there
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So why don't you tell the people why it broke. Because you really didn't "Break" it like a Banjo Playing Pirate Board Guy would from major flogging. You ripped the cage out.
Tell the people why the cage ripped out.
Tell the people why the cage ripped out.
#16
lemme guess.... OME N91s up front with a top out spacer or two, then you hit a ledge where the front tires went up and over and the backs were still below pushing... ??? at that point, the front went to full droop since the weight shifted to the rear and the belly was bottomed out. you gave it some gas to pull you up and over, but instead as you got traction, you shattered the cage - just like i did on slickrock back in May...
yeah, the OME's really are too long.
yeah, the OME's really are too long.
Last edited by bamachem; 08-30-2006 at 06:26 AM.
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Stock Tundra shocks with a 1" top out spacer. Yeah, N91S or longer. I don't have any numbers on the stock Tundra shocks. Front shock length is extremely critial with these front ends. With the correct length, you can really beat the snot out of it and it will not break/bind. Shocks that are too long and it's over quick.
Basically the joint bound up and the cage tore out.
Same thing if you cut the steering stops off of a 79-85 SA and just kept turning.
Basically the joint bound up and the cage tore out.
Same thing if you cut the steering stops off of a 79-85 SA and just kept turning.
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The binding was pretty noticeable when Steve and I were setting my limit straps. Without the limit straps and the front end at full droop, we were unable to twist the axles by hand. When we had the straps set to limit the droop to ~17 degrees (stock range), we were able to easily twist the axles with our hands.
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