radrex

OK - So I got suckered into buying a 93 4runner. It was so pretty and my wife really wanted it. Toyota Quality. - Yeah right. The head gasket lasted approximately 1 week. Honestly from the looks of the rinky dinky head gasket I consider it an engineering miracle that it lasted as long as it did. It is no more than 3/8 inch from the water jacket to the exterior of the engine.

Now I'm tearing it down. I have the heads off. (After fighting with the Cross-Over bolts for a couple of days - and finally reverting to a acetylene torch) I have the Front Differential removed(After having to darn near remove the entire left side of the vehicle.) The starter is off.

Now the question is - Can I just remove the block - or do I need to remove the block and the Automatic transmission as a unit? My Chilton manual (which sux) seems to say that you need to yank them out as a unit. Considering the vehicles height and the length of the transmission - it looks like I would have to jack the whole thing up about 8 feet in the air.

It looks like I have to remove the Engine to Transmission tensioner (Support) and a couple of Bolts to get to the Torque Converter Bolts. Is this true?

Since this is my first Toyota, (I bought it for the wife) I am absolutely shocked at what parts cost for this thing. Jeez - a 220.00 Head Gasket Set. 600.00 to get the heads reworked. $60.00 Head Bolts. I'm down a thousand bucks and just getting started.

Anyway, since I'm obviously making a serious investment into this dog - I'm going to yank the short block out and get it gone through and re-ringed at the local machine shop.

Any words of wisdom would be well appreciated. I can't afford to tear anything up whilst removing this thing.

I've ordered the following as well:
Upper Timing Belt Idler - 60.00
Lower Time Belt Idler - 76.00
Water Pump - 90.00
Timing Belt Tensioner - 35.00
Knock Sensor - 120.00
Knock Sensor Wire - 12.00
O2 Sensor - 135.00
New Oil Pump - 120.00
Full Gasket Set (Felpro) -220.00
Heads Clean / Rebuilt (Local) -470.00
Block Cleaned / Dissassembled Honed - Re-Ringed / Re-Bearinged 300.00
I'm having all 6 injectors tested / cleaned w new Orings. $144.00

2 Rebuilt Front Axles - 88.00 each. (Cracked Boots)

For a Grand Total of 1948.00 (and that doesn't include the misc Hoses / Belts etc..) Add another 1.49 for the jar of vaseline I'm going to need while I'm at the parts store and the 19.00 for the Quart of Jack Daniels I'm going to drink to get me to write the check.

Someone please shoot me prior to my next purchase of any foreign vehicle over 10 years old. (An AC Compressor for this runner is more than a new short block for a Ford). Man this sucks.

Nor_Cal2ndgen

I purchased a complete engine rebuild kit for $400. It included pistons, rings, all bearings, oil pump, timing belt ALL gaskets (very good quality head gaskets believe it or not!), freeze plugs and new head bolts. I pulled the engine WITHOUT the trans, and the only thing you need to do is take out the bellhousing bolts (top one is a little tough without a wobbly) and remove the lower dust plate. There are 6 TQconverter bolts and they are easy to get to once the dust plate is moved. There is a cut out section in the pan just for this. Hope that helps.

Also.....if by some chance you need a new FAN idler setup, DONT buy a new one form the dealer ($500!!) I have a line on em for $140...so if you have an extra $140 email me, because yours WILL go out, might as well do it now. I am talking about the assy. that the hydraulic tensioner bolts to.

radrex

Yes - That helps alot. I was going to carry the Fan Idler unit down to my local bearing house and see if they can replace the bearing.

I ordered a Haynes Manual and hope it is better than this Chiltons that I have.

I forgot to add - the 80.00 worth of parts to rebuild the Alternator. I have no idea what it will cost my local Starter guy to go through the starter. That dude was in there so freaking tightly it looks like it would never come out of the bottom. Luckily it wasn't hard once I got the heads off and the exhaust out of the way. I may break down and buy a OEM New Starter cause I never never want to have to mess with it again.

Nor_Cal2ndgen

The bearing can not be replaced...trust me I have tried

The unit is cast around the bearing, and thats it! The pulley can be pressed out, but once it is, the bearing is not going anywhere....the bracket usually breaks in two.

On the starter...it is not as bad as it looks I promise. You have to take off the wheel, and there is an access plate held on by four 10mm headed bolts. Once the plate is off, the starter is easy to get to. The hardest part is manuvering it out of the hole....but it only comes out ONE way, so once you figure out which way to turn it then it is easy. Word of advice if you ever need to change it....disconnect the battery cable and solenoid wire FIRST before you unbolt the starter.

If you replace it with a factory reman, that might get you a few more years than a local parts house rebuild. As far as I know you can NOT get a "brand new" starter ANYWHERE unless it is aftermarket. The manufacturers do NOT sell "new" starters or alternotors, they only put them on BRAND NEW cars when they are manufactured.

radrex

Do the ones you have a line on have the Place to put the Automatic Timing Belt Tensioner doohickey. I noticed some of the older ones don't have a place for this

Nor_Cal2ndgen

Yes of course they do....

89-92 is one style.
93-95 is the 2nd style.

Here is a pic of the exact one you would get for $140 plus 10.50 for shipping.

radrex

Who makes this? Who makes the bearing? Is the casting aluminum? It looks a little rougher than original.

Is this what you have on your engine?

The one I have is a tad noisy but, no play and the seal on the back looks OK.

On another topic - The Front Seal on the Automatic Tranny - Is it hard to change? Where can you buy the Seal? Is it a Yota only part? (Pump Seal?)

My book says to bolt the Torque Converter back up to the engine - and check the run out etc.. I'll probably do it.

This Runner is very sweet looking and has all of the bells and whistles - otherwise I'd torch it.

I'll keep my Ford Supercrew any day of the week over this thing. It was slower than an old tired mule before the head gasket played out - and got just as bad gas mileage as my Ford - but the ford has 270 HP. I'm hoping that the O2 sensor will help the Gas Mileage..

When I took out the front differential - It was obvious that it had been gone through - at some point due to the gasket gunk smeared all over it. Any easily worn parts in that thing? Is there something I should do to it while it is on the ground? So many parts - So little money.

Thanks for your help

Firefyter-Emt

As I have stated in prior posts.. Pony up for new exhaust valves on the heads. I have had them warp on 2 sets of heads built by 2 shops.. Too much chance to play with for the cost of the 6 valves.. There is also a whole host of small heater hoses on the back of the block.. Most imporantly that one that does a 180 back down. Replace them now and you will not regret it. The starter is prety hardy, I would just buy the new terminal the battrey cable bolts to and call it a day. The secret to R&I on the starter is a lot of extensions. Your ratchet should be about to the front of the motor.. I can yank it out in about 15-20 min. easily..

Designsbyme

Engine and trans have to come out together.
My Thread

Firefyter-Emt

Holy crap.. that is the hard way my friend!! The motor comes out nice and easy by itself.. No need to pull the tranny with it!! Dang..

Designsbyme

On an auto? if so... D'OH!!!! :pat:

Firefyter-Emt

Nope, just unbolt the bellhousing and then unbolt the flex plate from the torque converter and pull it out leaving tranny & torque converter in there. I like to "hang" the tranny with a ratchet strap. That way you can tweek it up or down while installing the motor.. Don't feel too bad, the FSM does say to yank it that way for some unknown reason.. Way too much work!

Designsbyme

Too bad no one told me that a few weeks ago! :cry:

Nor_Cal2ndgen

I just did mine also, and did not pull the trans out! I dont know WHY the manuals say you have to pull together, but MAN is that the hard way!

Highland Runner

I have never found that foreign auto parts to be more than domestic. That what everyone used to tell me, but I found the opposite to be true. I have never owned an an American made car except for my Tacoma. I have helped friends fix there American made cars and can't believe some of the prices, and Ford seems to be one of the most expensive. It may be because Ford redesigns their engines every six months to fix screwups. One example is glow plugs in Fords and Chevy's. A friend just replaced the glow plugs in his Chevy. The plugs cost more than the truck is worth. My company just had to replace some of the glow plugs our F-450, and they were equally expensive.
Many of the things you listed can be found for much cheaper.
I rebuilt my starter for $12 with parts from Toyota. It is very easy to get out and did the entire job in less than an hour.
I rebooted all four CV's with a kit from Toyota for $40. Messy but very easy job.
Sounds like this Runner may have been abused/neglected as they are generally some of the best built vehicles out there. My has 207750 miles with no problems, leaks, etc.
Many have had Toyota replace the entire engine for free, because of HG problems. Have you checked into this?

danavanhuber

just took mine out and out a new one in and it was a real pain in the .... didnt pull the tranny out but had to unbolt it to get the spline in. now im worrying about the sensors next to the fire wall. they were all brittle and broke and now i have to buy new ones. any one else have this problem. if you take it our be really careful with those. they are sensittive