2nd gen hub removal.... help
#1
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2nd gen hub removal.... help
Well I've read up and searched and I am just amazed at these washers that will not come off. They have destroyed every flat head chisel, punch, etc i own.. They are tougher than the hub cover which scares me, cause its gonna take some slamming to get these off. I'm not sure anyone can help me since I have searched and all but wtf is going on here? I have never seen something this challenging out of a washer...
#2
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Spray it with something like PB blaster, tap on the the stud itself, while lightly tapping on the hub. or (this isnt always a good idea) tap down on the end of the hub to force it to seperate from the wheel hub, or (this really isnt a good idea) take a chisel and drive it between the hub body and the wheel hub. I have done all three and would only recommend the first one, though in a bind, ive had to perform the other two and they've worked for me. The other two could cause hub body damage.... third method especially.
#3
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I've always got them off by hitting the side of the hub with a hammer. Not a light tap, but a good solid smack. It also is a good idea to keep the nuts on the end of the studs a couple of threads. Trying to find the washers after they've flown across the garage can be lots of fun.
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There was a very indepth thread about this (yet another one - this is like a monthly topic) Here's the thread - https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f2/front-hub-cone-washers-42116/
Hitting the side of the flange hard is a BAD idea. Might work, but lots of hubs have been cracked by this. They come right out if you find the sweet spot, it takes finesse not brute force. As Cory indicates - brute force is a last resort only. This is the correct method, sharply tapping, not whacking! at an angle, one one side then other of the washer, couple times on each side and they go "sping" and go flying (unless there is silicone keeping em on) - I never have to force them, not in 20 years of yota maintenance.
Hitting the side of the flange hard is a BAD idea. Might work, but lots of hubs have been cracked by this. They come right out if you find the sweet spot, it takes finesse not brute force. As Cory indicates - brute force is a last resort only. This is the correct method, sharply tapping, not whacking! at an angle, one one side then other of the washer, couple times on each side and they go "sping" and go flying (unless there is silicone keeping em on) - I never have to force them, not in 20 years of yota maintenance.
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I've only ever had to force them 4 times..... on 4 different rigs... and 2 of them I cracked a hub. but ever since they were broken apart, have never ever had a problem... finesse is key, brute force a last resort!
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The best way I have found it to use a brass punch on the stud. Two or three good hits on the punch and they'll come off. This way you can hit the stud and not damage the threads.
#7
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well smacking the side of the hub pulled it off. wow is all i can say. they really are cone washers. they look so much like stupid lock washers at first.
thanks for the assistance YT.
thanks for the assistance YT.
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#8
I don't hit the lock-out hub body anymore. That is too soft and deforms under my hammer.
I smack the cast iron hub itself with my handy 2 pound brass hammer. Do it with authority. The cone washers pop right off. In fact, I put my hand over the end of the studs because the cone washers often shoot off and try to get lost in my garage.
neverseize when I go to put them back on.
I smack the cast iron hub itself with my handy 2 pound brass hammer. Do it with authority. The cone washers pop right off. In fact, I put my hand over the end of the studs because the cone washers often shoot off and try to get lost in my garage.
neverseize when I go to put them back on.
#9
Just did mine.
Never moved in 13 years until last weekend.
Brass punch was really innefective initially .
I used a copper mallet on the hub. Several sharp blow to release the first then the brass punch on the studs got the rest.
Daviud
Never moved in 13 years until last weekend.
Brass punch was really innefective initially .
I used a copper mallet on the hub. Several sharp blow to release the first then the brass punch on the studs got the rest.
Daviud
#10
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Originally Posted by gthorne
The best way I have found it to use a brass punch on the stud. Two or three good hits on the punch and they'll come off. This way you can hit the stud and not damage the threads.
#12
i had the chance to remove 8 sets of manual hubs from the wrecking and with the worst condition of it, the best way to loosen the cone washer is to bolt a nut back to the stud but not going all the way, then tap/hammer the bolt/stud and this should loosen it (cone washers). Of course, spraying it with wd40 etc. before doing it will surely help. It is easy to replace the nuts than warping the holes where you screw the dial assembly on the hub body.
Just an idea...
Just an idea...
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