SpeedCrazy

Think i forgot to mention I'm dropping the truck off at the muffler shop in the morning for a new set of tailpipes.
This being the case i need to decide where i want them to exit.

1. Single Side.
2. Split - out the back.
3. Split - behind the tires.

I don't really care for single side with two pipes.(my flowmaster is a y)
As to options 2 and 3, i'm not really sure. The advantage of 3 is that changing bumper wont mess with it.
At this point i am going with 3 but i am willing to listen to any advice or suggestions.

bbrideau

thanks for the link, the big three is grounds battery and running a bigger alt wire for your charging system, the original in the harness is small and usually crumbles to nothing, another good upgrade look into the jaguar alt upgrade, you change the front pull to the 22re style pulley and its straight plug and play 120amp, no modifications other than pulley

SpeedCrazy

No problem, glad to help.
So where does the alt wire run to/from? I know that would be a good idea as my battery light blinks when ever i turn on my lights.
Jaguar alt? Just looked up the thread. I will have to see about that, jag or not it probably could do with an upgrade before i start adding lights and such, especially if i lay my hands on a winch.

UPDATE:
Got tailpipes on today. Will post pics once it stops raining.
Also; replacing the battery cables and grounds appears to have solved my tps an knock sensor issuers. Even after driving around town for 20 minutes or so and then home the cel did not come back on.

bbrideau

The wire that gets held down with the nut is the one you replace, alternately you can keep it attatched and run a secondary wire to the battery but you should run a fuse in line. Not sure what the amperage it should be on the fuse it wilk be some where on the site

SpeedCrazy

Quoting so i can note progress and add things.
The change i mention on the fuse box and such plan i mentioned is as follows, and please tell me if this is silly or infeasible.
What i was thinking is a dual battery setup, where both are hooked up, charging and running stuff while the truck is running, but when the ignition is turned off any hot accessories are run from one isolated battery to prevent a dead truck. It would require building something like this http://www.12voltguy.com/DUAL-BATTERY-KIT.html
Obviously this require a bit of rewiring and relocating, hence putting my fuse box plans on hold for now.
The idea behind this idea(does that work, idea behind the idea?) is that i want to be able to park and run music, lights, oba, or whatever without having to worry about draining the battery and being stranded.
Basic summary 2 batteries, one is isolated after the ignition is turned off. This is not an immediate plan i just want to make sure that things i do now won't preclude it. Hence rethinking the where and how i want to hook up the aux fuse box. I may make a separate thread for working this one out so as not to clutter this one.

SpeedCrazy

Okay here are the pics i promised.
New tailpipes:

Driver Side

Pass Side

Underneath, i think he left enough room to put a full-size spare under there if i find some mounting hardware.

And the alternator wiring i mentioned earlier:

Don't know if you noticed, but my alt wire is about worn through. And i wondered why my battery light flashes. And the ground is sketch.

So i obviously need to do some work on that. Not sure exactly what yet but we will see.
As for the tail pipes, not sure if i like the new sound yet, but it is definitely quieter, i can actually hear myself think now. Do i need to paint them with something to stop rust?

bone collector

post a video of how the dual exhaust sounds.... im curious.. and yes fix the alternator wiring.... pronto

SpeedCrazy

Will do. I'm not really sure if i like it, from the cab what i hear ranges from silent to bumble bee when accelerating to rumble if its working hard.
I am researching what to do with the alt wiring for sure. I think i will bypass the harness and go to the battery. But i need to read some more before i make up my mind.

SpeedCrazy

Vid coming =p

I am having trouble figuring out how to rewire the alt. Most of the info i can find suggests two wires should be bolted to the stud on the top of the alt. I only have one, a big(about 8ga i think) white one.
Now that being said, i cant decide, run the new wire to the fuse box or run it straight to the battery, with an inline fuse? I am thinking keep going through the fuse box just for simplicity's sake. But i want to hear the pros and cons.
I also need to know what gauge wire i should use? Stick with 8ga or upgrade for future possibilities(i do want to do dual batteries so that might mean a bigger alt, but at the distance of cable i will be running i don't think it will make too much difference?).

SpeedCrazy

Okay, i got under the hood, and toyota threw me a curve ball right off the bat...
the alt wire goes approximately 3 feet before terminating in a black box behind the air box.

This is it closed with the alt end already removed.

Open. The alt side wire goes in the open slot and bolts over the top of that other wire.
Is that stock? Either way i'm running out of time, besides being out of my depth deciding fuse box or inline and all the circuits, so unless someone posts before i finish my breather i am just going to replace this section and leave everything else stock for now.

SpeedCrazy

Truck is out for the count
So i replaced the wire from the alt to the + box thingy, then loomed it and taped it all up nice and pretty before slapping the air box back in and firing her up.
And ...... the alt wont charge!!!
Now the only thing i changed is that where the stock wiring had a weird bunny eared ring terminal i substituted a standard one as i couldn't find one like it.

Apparently those ears are important...
At least that's all i can figure, i pulled the air box back off and all my connections are solid.
Any ideas?

SpeedCrazy

Well those bunny ears are not the issue, would have been surprised if they were, but i can hope right?
The battery was dead this morning so i have a short somewhere and now i am confused stressed and rushing to figure this out before work tomorrow. Not a good combination. And to top things off i can't figure out how to get my multimeter to work.
If anyone has any ideas please head over to this thread
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...oblems-270690/
And yes the exhaust vid is on the way, but it does kinda require a running truck to make =p

bbrideau

to answer your question about the black box, yes that is stock. usually the wire from the alt to that box corrodes from the extreme heat the exhaust gives off. i suggest keeping that little junction box, i believe from there that wire goes to the white wire on the fusible link, if u didn't disconnect the battery when u were mucking with the wires you can A) blow that fuse or B) blow the alt. if you get sparks flying from your alt at any time you run the risk of blowing it, I made that mistake once i will never do it again.

SpeedCrazy

I am keeping it. And i did disconnect the battery, first thing i do whenever i go under the hood. But it looks like i did blow the alt anyway. See the other thread for more info.
So now i am looking for plug-n-play alt upgrades. but i gotta run, thanks for the info.

bbrideau

Look up the jaguar alt upgrade, its completely plug and play all you have to do is change the pulley on it, has 120 amp output, much better for accesories

SpeedCrazy

That sounds pretty good. Are there any write ups for it?

bbrideau

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...ow-too-253689/

SpeedCrazy

Thanks, that looks good. Only thing is, i don't have an impact wrench so i might have trouble switching the pulley...
And it $200... not so sure on that.

SpeedCrazy

I ordered a 70 amp alt for a 4runner as i don't have any more time to waste. Should be at the store by 3 so i will hopefully be up and running this afternoon.
Would have liked to go bigger, but this will do for now.

bbrideau

you can find jaguar alts in junkyards for like 30 or 40 bucks usually just need a cleaning, you also cna take the alt to a shop or even a wal mart and ask their shop to take the pulley off, cost you 5 bucks if anything at all