Elvota's 3.4 swap - Page 2

mt_goat · 11-28-2007, 05:01 AM

Yeah I took mine out too:

http://www.yotatech.com/912696-post60.html

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thefallman · 11-28-2007, 06:46 PM

Tell you what, the only things that are still under my hood, that where there prior to the swap, are obviously everything from the core support/radiator forward, the brake booster, Fuse Box and the A/C compressor EVERYTHING else is GONE or 3.4 parts and i mean everything including all heater hoses, and vacumn lines

Makes it really really clean install. If i could get my battery and air box permentently mounted in place it would be almost perfect

Elvota · 11-28-2007, 08:12 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Yeah I took mine out too:

Exactly what I want to ditch. Funny though, yours looks so new... mine looks like a giant dirt clod stuck on top of the frame rail.

I went scrounging today for a non-ABS power steering line at some salvage yards, but no luck. Most of the Toyota's were picked clean and the ones I found with parts left were all ABS equipped.

I noticed the vacuum idle control is integrated into the banjo on the 3.4, but on the pump itself with the 3.0. My thought is to get a new line made for the swap.

Steering box end from the 3.0, and the banjo end from the 3.4. Then I could eliminate the ABS box and have a pretty clean install when complete. I am finding a few leads on local hydraulic hose manufacturers. I'll post up what I end up doing.

BLKNBLU · 11-28-2007, 08:34 PM

Steve I think there are a couple custom hose places out this way, but I only vaguely think I remember where they are. I'll try to look into it tomorrow.

Elvota · 11-28-2007, 08:35 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLKNBLU

Steve I think there are a couple custom hose places out this way, but I only vaguely think I remember where they are. I'll try to look into it tomorrow.

Any possible sources you can pass my way would be of great help.

BLKNBLU · 11-28-2007, 09:09 PM

Found one of them. Granberry Supply Corp. No website but they have a yellow page ad on Dex if you type them in. 3 locations. Couldn't link the ad for some reason. I haven't been in there but they look promising.

Elvota · 11-28-2007, 10:49 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BLKNBLU

Found one of them. Granberry Supply Corp. No website but they have a yellow page ad on Dex if you type them in. 3 locations. Couldn't link the ad for some reason. I haven't been in there but they look promising.

Thanks for the research. I got that company from IH8MUD as well... seems like these guys may be the way to go.

mt_goat · 11-29-2007, 04:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

I went scrounging today for a brake line at some salvage yards, but no luck. Most of the Toyota's were picked clean and the ones I found with parts left were all ABS equipped.

You don't want a junk yard brake line. They aren't too expensive at the dealer, IIRC around $30 complete with fittings and pre-bent to fit all the turns. As much trouble as it is to replace the rear brake line you want a new one, plus stopping is very important

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 07:38 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

You don't want a junk yard brake line. They aren't too expensive at the dealer, IIRC around $30 complete with fittings and pre-bent to fit all the turns. As much trouble as it is to replace the rear brake line you want a new one, plus stopping is very important

Whoops... typo. I meant to say I went looking for a non-ABS power steering line.

I already have the ABS eliminated, and a line to the rear, when I did my disc swap. So I just need to reroute the PS line at this point.

Sorry for the confusion. I have edited the original post.

mt_goat · 11-29-2007, 11:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

Whoops... typo. I meant to say I went looking for a non-ABS power steering line.

I already have the ABS eliminated, and a line to the rear, when I did my disc swap. So I just need to reroute the PS line at this point.

Sorry for the confusion. I have edited the original post.

Oh good, I was worried about you being way too cheap there for a minute

Mike @ ORS might sell you just the high pressure PS hose if you ask him, his hose is so nice because the ends are already clocked just right for the 3.4 PS pump and 3.0 steering gear box.

fillsrunner4 · 11-29-2007, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Oh good, I was worried about you being way too cheap there for a minute

Mike @ ORS might sell you just the high pressure PS hose if you ask him, his hose is so nice because the ends are already clocked just right for the 3.4 PS pump and 3.0 steering gear box.

this is exactly what i did aswell. its a great line and bolts right up. get the non-power steering line and that will solve that for you. it doesnt have the banjo for the idle up but i dont think its too big a deal.

Your garage reminds me of mine during those stages of my swap. once you start doing it all you realize that its actualy not to hard to do this stuff as you may have once thought it was crazy

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 12:24 PM

I may end up going with the ORS hose. it is listed on their site as a separate item. I'll see what I can dig up locally first.

AZkid · 11-29-2007, 02:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

Any possible sources you can pass my way would be of great help.

Call these guys if you haven't yet.
Toyotas "R" Us
3224 south 40th st.
602-437-1222
they use to be a pick-n-pull, but not now. My brother has a 4runner and got quite a few parts from them for a pretty decent price.

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by AZkid

Call these guys if you haven't yet.
Toyotas "R" Us

Thanks for the lead. I should call them.

I used to have decent luck there as well, that's actually where I got my front axle for the SAS. But after they strayed from the "pull your own" style I have never really found the attitude or service to be the best. But... beggars can't be choosers.

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 03:01 PM

Getting a little closer. Won't have the motor mounts until Monday, so I am doing what I can.

Pulled the ABS PS lines and monster block assembly. I have a lead on a local company that can use the pump end of my 3.4 and the box end of my 3.0 lines... or so they say. When I get the motor in I'll be able to get some measurements. Would be a nice way to go because I would retain the 3.4 idle up function. Guess we'll see.

Emptier bay:

Welded my power steering box gusset on the frame rail. The SAS and harder trails comes some unique failures. My box was starting to crack at the inside mounts, so figured with the engine out this would be the time to address the problem.

Gusset ready to go:

Frame ready to go:

Welded and ready to bolt back together:

Keep pulling out wires and extra parts. Pretty amazing how much I am learning about what goes where and what service that part does. A 3.4 swap sure is a great way to learn about one's vehicle.

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 03:12 PM

Installed the 3.0 oil pan and pickup on the 3.4. Everything fit perfectly as expected.

My block already had the factory "middle" dipstick hole with a plug in it, so I just knocked it out and installed the new Toyota dipstick guide. For the original dipstick hole in the front of the block, I tapped it to 10x1.5mm. Didn't even have to drill. Then RTV and screwed in a plug:

Then I installed the new dipstick tube and dipstick. Perfect fit.

Part numbers if anyone is interested:
Dipstick - Toyota 15301-62060
Dipstick Guide - Toyota 11452-62060
Union - Toyota 0405-10033

Also installed the 3.0 oil pressure sender. Still need to swap out the plug:

Physical difference between the two senders:

For sale: One 3.4 oil pressure sender.

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 03:25 PM

I wanted to retain my 3.0 alternator after the swap as it is an upgrade 150 AMP version. So, I started seeing what I would need to do.

Some pics of the physical differences between the two:

As you can see, they are very similar. Main ear is identical. Pulley is even the same size and grooves. Plugs are different, but I still have the 3.0 plug hanging off my firewall so that should make things easier.

The main problem is with the position of the lower ear. The 3.4 is thinner and closer to the pulley. This results in a difference in the brackets themselves:

At first, I thought I would just use the 3.0 lower bracket on the 3.4 block, but there was a clearance issue with the coolant neck. So then I thought I would try and use the 3.0 neck on the 3.4:

They actually are compatible. So I installed the 3.0 neck on the 3.4 but that really put the output at an odd angle. So, I retained the 3.4 neck on the 3.4, and went about seeing what would have to be done to use the 3.4 alternator bracket on the 3.0 alternator.

Turns out it's a pretty simple process. All I had to do was add 4 washers to the back of the bracket against the block. I then ground off 2mm or so off the lower 3.0 alt ear. The grinding wasn't really necessary, as the bracket could have flexed over to accommodate... but I figured why not. The bracket now bolts to the front of the 3.0 alt ear, instead of the back on the 3.4 alt.

I also ended up cutting off the bend for the 3.4 adjuster. I didn't have the threaded barrel part anyway, and the 3.0 had no such mechanism to apply belt tension:

After that, the 3.0 alt fit on just fine:

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 03:29 PM

I am trying to figure out where all the lines go for my EVAP box. Anyone have any pictures or diagrams... or better yet happen to know where these lines need to be attached?

I think Number 4 goes back to the gas tank, but I have two line currently attached to my 3.0 EVAP assembly that seem to go back to the tank as well.

Input appreciated. I'll probably post this question in the 96-2002 4Runner section as well since it's a little buried here.

(http://www.yotatech.com/f2/evap-cani.../#post50681878)

mt_goat · 11-29-2007, 04:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

Pulled the ABS PS lines and monster block assembly. I have a lead on a local company that can use the pump end of my 3.4 and the box end of my 3.0 lines... or so they say. When I get the motor in I'll be able to get some measurements.

Those high pressure hoses don't twist at all, so make sure the ends are clocked right. My suggestion would be to have them put on one end then screw it on and mark the hose where the other end needs to be. Then go back and have them install the other end.

Great pics and details BTW

mt_goat · 11-29-2007, 04:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

I am trying to figure out where all the lines go for my EVAP box. Anyone have any pictures or diagrams... or better yet happen to know where these line need to be attached?

Here's a diagram from the FSM:
http://www.tankota.net/repair/Repair...e/cip04515.pdf

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 04:22 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mt_goat

Those high pressure hoses don't twist at all, so make sure the ends are clocked right. My suggestion would be to have them put on one end then screw it on and mark the hose where the other end needs to be. Then go back and have them install the other end.

That is a good idea... would not have thought of that.

Thanks for the diagram as well. I almost have my head around wiring diagrams, and now I have to figure out vacuum line diagrams.

Elvota · 11-29-2007, 04:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by fillsrunner4

Your garage reminds me of mine during those stages of my swap. once you start doing it all you realize that its actualy not to hard to do this stuff as you may have once thought it was crazy

You are right. The whole idea of a swap is intimidating, but once you are in to it stuff starts to make sense.

This of course assumes I am doing everything correctly and my 4Runner will eventually run... or end up becoming a huge flower pot in the front yard.

mt_goat · 11-29-2007, 04:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

That is a good idea... would not have thought of that.

Thanks for the diagram as well. I almost have my head around wiring diagrams, and now I have to figure out vacuum line diagrams.

Also keep in mind that the engine moves (a lot sometimes) and the steering box doesn't so you want a liitle slack in the hose.

Sorry, I can't read that vac line diagram either.

MTL_4runner · 11-30-2007, 07:01 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elvota

For sale: One 3.4 oil pressure sender.

Put that up for sale because you'd be surprised how many people snap those off while changing their oil filter.

thefallman · 11-30-2007, 11:13 AM

hey just so you know i think mt goat and i covered this earlier in his thread but i believe a 3.0 alternator after 92 should bolt to your 3.4 flanges and tensioner. I had the same problem but whent to a wrecking yard and pulled a 3.4 all ternator and a 93 3.0 and my original 89 3.0 and compared the 3. cant tell you for sure what the differnces are right now but pretty sure dale didnt have this trouble. i even used the 3.0 rad hose and thermostat housing.

one thing i would suggest you dont install the alt till after you put the engine in there is only about 1/4 inch between the steering shaft and the alt when its on and tight.

11-28-2007, 06:46 PM	#27 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	Tell you what, the only things that are still under my hood, that where there prior to the swap, are obviously everything from the core support/radiator forward, the brake booster, Fuse Box and the A/C compressor EVERYTHING else is GONE or 3.4 parts and i mean everything including all heater hoses, and vacumn lines Makes it really really clean install. If i could get my battery and air box permentently mounted in place it would be almost perfect __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think) Last edited by thefallman; 11-28-2007 at 06:49 PM.

11-28-2007, 08:34 PM	#29 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,666	Steve I think there are a couple custom hose places out this way, but I only vaguely think I remember where they are. I'll try to look into it tomorrow. __________________ 86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/

11-28-2007, 09:09 PM	#31 (permalink)
BLKNBLU Registered User Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: Gilbert, Arizona Posts: 1,666	Found one of them. Granberry Supply Corp. No website but they have a yellow page ad on Dex if you type them in. 3 locations. Couldn't link the ad for some reason. I haven't been in there but they look promising. __________________ 86 4Runner, custom Sonoran Steel rear bumper, 4Crawler 1" body lift, rock sliders from Richard Stubbs, rear Lockright, SAS w/ARB My build thread. http://www.yotatech.com/f66/blknblu-s-sac-155872/

11-29-2007, 12:24 PM	#37 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	I may end up going with the ORS hose. it is listed on their site as a separate item. I'll see what I can dig up locally first. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

11-29-2007, 03:01 PM	#40 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Getting a little closer. Won't have the motor mounts until Monday, so I am doing what I can. Pulled the ABS PS lines and monster block assembly. I have a lead on a local company that can use the pump end of my 3.4 and the box end of my 3.0 lines... or so they say. When I get the motor in I'll be able to get some measurements. Would be a nice way to go because I would retain the 3.4 idle up function. Guess we'll see. Emptier bay: Welded my power steering box gusset on the frame rail. The SAS and harder trails comes some unique failures. My box was starting to crack at the inside mounts, so figured with the engine out this would be the time to address the problem. Gusset ready to go: Frame ready to go: Welded and ready to bolt back together: Keep pulling out wires and extra parts. Pretty amazing how much I am learning about what goes where and what service that part does. A 3.4 swap sure is a great way to learn about one's vehicle. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles Last edited by Elvota; 01-31-2008 at 12:42 PM.

11-29-2007, 03:12 PM	#41 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Installed the 3.0 oil pan and pickup on the 3.4. Everything fit perfectly as expected. My block already had the factory "middle" dipstick hole with a plug in it, so I just knocked it out and installed the new Toyota dipstick guide. For the original dipstick hole in the front of the block, I tapped it to 10x1.5mm. Didn't even have to drill. Then RTV and screwed in a plug: Then I installed the new dipstick tube and dipstick. Perfect fit. Part numbers if anyone is interested: Dipstick - Toyota 15301-62060 Dipstick Guide - Toyota 11452-62060 Union - Toyota 0405-10033 Also installed the 3.0 oil pressure sender. Still need to swap out the plug: Physical difference between the two senders: For sale: One 3.4 oil pressure sender. __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles

11-29-2007, 03:25 PM	#42 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	Alternator I wanted to retain my 3.0 alternator after the swap as it is an upgrade 150 AMP version. So, I started seeing what I would need to do. Some pics of the physical differences between the two: As you can see, they are very similar. Main ear is identical. Pulley is even the same size and grooves. Plugs are different, but I still have the 3.0 plug hanging off my firewall so that should make things easier. The main problem is with the position of the lower ear. The 3.4 is thinner and closer to the pulley. This results in a difference in the brackets themselves: At first, I thought I would just use the 3.0 lower bracket on the 3.4 block, but there was a clearance issue with the coolant neck. So then I thought I would try and use the 3.0 neck on the 3.4: They actually are compatible. So I installed the 3.0 neck on the 3.4 but that really put the output at an odd angle. So, I retained the 3.4 neck on the 3.4, and went about seeing what would have to be done to use the 3.4 alternator bracket on the 3.0 alternator. Turns out it's a pretty simple process. All I had to do was add 4 washers to the back of the bracket against the block. I then ground off 2mm or so off the lower 3.0 alt ear. The grinding wasn't really necessary, as the bracket could have flexed over to accommodate... but I figured why not. The bracket now bolts to the front of the 3.0 alt ear, instead of the back on the 3.4 alt. I also ended up cutting off the bend for the 3.4 adjuster. I didn't have the threaded barrel part anyway, and the 3.0 had no such mechanism to apply belt tension: After that, the 3.0 alt fit on just fine: __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles Last edited by Elvota; 01-31-2008 at 12:45 PM.

11-29-2007, 03:29 PM	#43 (permalink)
Elvota Contributing Member Join Date: Jun 2005 Location: Phx, AZ Posts: 3,436	EVAP Routing I am trying to figure out where all the lines go for my EVAP box. Anyone have any pictures or diagrams... or better yet happen to know where these lines need to be attached? I think Number 4 goes back to the gas tank, but I have two line currently attached to my 3.0 EVAP assembly that seem to go back to the tank as well. Input appreciated. I'll probably post this question in the 96-2002 4Runner section as well since it's a little buried here. (http://www.yotatech.com/f2/evap-cani.../#post50681878) __________________ ================ 1990 4Runner \| V6 3.4 \| 5spd \| 240 someoddthousand miles \| SR5 \| SAS \| RLS \| 35's \| ARB \| TJM \| 217 to 1 \| W8000 - four wheels \| three sticks \| two hands \| one trail - RIGITY DIGITY visit the sticki chronicles Last edited by Elvota; 12-03-2007 at 09:12 PM.

11-30-2007, 11:13 AM	#50 (permalink)
thefallman Registered User Join Date: Jun 2006 Location: Walla Walla, WA Posts: 550	hey just so you know i think mt goat and i covered this earlier in his thread but i believe a 3.0 alternator after 92 should bolt to your 3.4 flanges and tensioner. I had the same problem but whent to a wrecking yard and pulled a 3.4 all ternator and a 93 3.0 and my original 89 3.0 and compared the 3. cant tell you for sure what the differnces are right now but pretty sure dale didnt have this trouble. i even used the 3.0 rad hose and thermostat housing. one thing i would suggest you dont install the alt till after you put the engine in there is only about 1/4 inch between the steering shaft and the alt when its on and tight. __________________ ~Brian GETTING FIXED 89 Ex-Cab 3.4 Conv. T100 Auto Tranny ~Phoenix 94 Ex-Cab 22re 5spd Came with parts truck. Doesnt run yet. 90 4runner 3.0 Auto (Wifes Toy) 92 4runner 3.0 Auto (Currently With Blown Engine) (New 3.4 Swap i think)

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