Bend's 3.4 to 88 5speed 4runner
01-22-2012, 11:36 PM
#22
I think this answers my starter relay question
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...4-swap-237324/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...wiring-155380/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...4-swap-237324/
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...wiring-155380/
Last edited by bend; 01-22-2012 at 11:39 PM.
01-27-2012, 09:23 PM
#23
Well I've just been tying up some loose ends while I wait for a fuel line to come in. I have to buy a 14mm male fitting and make an adapter for the two female ends. All my wiring is done. Well besides my 4wd and ac. I can manage without those for a bit till I get them figured out. I really dont want to cut my alt bracket but it simply wont fit. Anybody got suggestions?
01-28-2012, 06:09 AM
#24
Registered User
Go for the cut alt bracket, it is actually pretty cheap to replace if you ever want to put the motor in something else.
As for the A/C question you PM'ed me on, yes I did get it running. Ironically, i had to do no wiring to do so. I was left with two wires from the 3.0 AC amplifier and 2 wires from the 3.4 ecu that I didn't have to hook up. I charged up the system and it just worked. I cannot confirm how well, of if the lack of communication with the ECU would have any long term effects, since the charge leaked out overnight (sorry ozone layer). It leaked from the R134 conversion nipple.
As for the A/C question you PM'ed me on, yes I did get it running. Ironically, i had to do no wiring to do so. I was left with two wires from the 3.0 AC amplifier and 2 wires from the 3.4 ecu that I didn't have to hook up. I charged up the system and it just worked. I cannot confirm how well, of if the lack of communication with the ECU would have any long term effects, since the charge leaked out overnight (sorry ozone layer). It leaked from the R134 conversion nipple.
02-27-2012, 10:46 PM
#26
Bleh. Finally got my clutch hose in today. Got that installed. I went to plug in the ecm but some of my wire plugs are too narrow. I have the correct plugs for the ecm but the actual wire plugs are too narrow for the pins. Anyone else run into that? I havent had a chance to do an in depth search since it is 2am and I have school tomorrow. I think I read people use their old 3.0 plugs but my 3.0 plugs dont resemble my 3.4 plugs. Hope this makes sense. i will probably end up junkyarding it.
03-02-2012, 05:29 PM
#31
No I didn't get it to crank. I didnt get it charged though but I did try to jump it. I dont think I gave it enough time to charge though. I need to find some free time and see what I can do. I am going to go through and clean all of my grounds.
04-27-2012, 07:37 AM
#32
So I finally it got it running a week or so ago. It is hard finding time to work on it with school. I'm sure school is nothing compared to a 9-5 and kids. Anyhoot It is missing pretty bad until it warms up. It also dies after i start it for the first time. If i crank it again it will run. I am going to pull codes tonight or tomorrrow. One of my grounds was loose so i'm hoping that fixed it.
I plan on updating this post with various lessons i have learned.
Issues:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-relay-250840/
Good Vacuum pictures
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k#post51402939
Things I have learned:
Don't rush
Label the tranny plugs on your donor
If you buy a totaled vehicle, it will take a long time to successfully part it out. Most places wont let you have a totaled vehicle in your front yard.
banjo bolts dont have to have their holes line up
Use an engine load leveler when pullling/putting the engine in.
Cut off the heads of some tranny bolts and use them as a guide. Cut a notch into them so you can screw them out.
The components section of the ewd is a huge help in identifying what tranny plugs you need. I used d3 for my 4wd detection
I would like to post up a pic of my vac lines
AC works. Didnt have to wire anything up or change amps. I just changed the top plate on the compressor. Cost me 200 bucks to charge it. I probably wouldnt get it charged if I had the choice. Doesnt work like new.
Make a bag for bolts you are not going to use again or they came off of your donor. I had so many I tossed off to the side and I couldnt remember if i just set it down or i tossed it earlier.
Dont use plastic hose couplings. They melt. Find some metal ones.
Replace all of your heater hoses. You will feel like an idiot when one blows and you overheat.
Replace your rear main seal. Build your 3.4 to last.
make the chain on the hoist as short as possible so your engine clears your grill.
n5-12 gets split to +b ecu terminal and ii3-16
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-way-251920/
I plan on updating this post with various lessons i have learned.
Issues:
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f160...-relay-250840/
Good Vacuum pictures
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...k#post51402939
Things I have learned:
Don't rush
Label the tranny plugs on your donor
If you buy a totaled vehicle, it will take a long time to successfully part it out. Most places wont let you have a totaled vehicle in your front yard.
banjo bolts dont have to have their holes line up
Use an engine load leveler when pullling/putting the engine in.
Cut off the heads of some tranny bolts and use them as a guide. Cut a notch into them so you can screw them out.
The components section of the ewd is a huge help in identifying what tranny plugs you need. I used d3 for my 4wd detection
I would like to post up a pic of my vac lines
AC works. Didnt have to wire anything up or change amps. I just changed the top plate on the compressor. Cost me 200 bucks to charge it. I probably wouldnt get it charged if I had the choice. Doesnt work like new.
Make a bag for bolts you are not going to use again or they came off of your donor. I had so many I tossed off to the side and I couldnt remember if i just set it down or i tossed it earlier.
Dont use plastic hose couplings. They melt. Find some metal ones.
Replace all of your heater hoses. You will feel like an idiot when one blows and you overheat.
Replace your rear main seal. Build your 3.4 to last.
make the chain on the hoist as short as possible so your engine clears your grill.
n5-12 gets split to +b ecu terminal and ii3-16
https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f116...er-way-251920/
Last edited by bend; 08-31-2012 at 05:34 AM.
05-28-2012, 08:14 PM
#33
I put in marlin's shifter seat and bushing kit in. I can definitely tell a difference. I'm not sure I like it though. I used to be able to just push the shifter forward and it would slide into 3rd from 2nd. Now I have to push it to the right a little. I'm sure I will get used to it and like it. The old seat and bushing werent in terrible shape after 260k but they definitely needed to be replaced. I plan on getting some headlight conversions, ultra-gauge, lock and ignition cylinders, various trim pieces, head unit, speakers, and battery box once I get paid this weekend. Should be fun.
06-26-2012, 09:58 PM
#35
You leave the starter relay and the ribbed box is the resistor pack for the injectors and are not needed.
06-27-2012, 08:45 AM
#37
Registered User
I just found out I have a bad head gasket on my 96 4Runner engine with 125,000 miles (coolant in the cylinder), so I'll be tearing into mine this weekend too.
I guess Toyota was still figuring out how to make a durable, non-asbestos, head gasket to work with the cast iron block and aluminum heads (the same or similar issue that plagued the 3.0...or at least part of the 3.0's problems) during the early years of the 5VZ, I'm not sure when they found the winning combination.
So far, the best/only 5VZ head gasket writeups I've found...
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=7462.0
And Toyota has a couple different head gasket kits, one is just a gasket kit (head gaskets, plenum gaskets, intake manifold gaskets) for about $150 or a complete top-end rebuild kit (everything you should need just without any new hardware (nuts/bolts)) for about $450. The head bolts supposedly are TTY (torque to yield) and should only be used once (at least that's what I'm starting to piece together); those suckers are $9 each and you'll need 16 of them.
Just a little heads up into what you could be encountering. Good luck.
I guess Toyota was still figuring out how to make a durable, non-asbestos, head gasket to work with the cast iron block and aluminum heads (the same or similar issue that plagued the 3.0...or at least part of the 3.0's problems) during the early years of the 5VZ, I'm not sure when they found the winning combination.
So far, the best/only 5VZ head gasket writeups I've found...
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=7462.0
And Toyota has a couple different head gasket kits, one is just a gasket kit (head gaskets, plenum gaskets, intake manifold gaskets) for about $150 or a complete top-end rebuild kit (everything you should need just without any new hardware (nuts/bolts)) for about $450. The head bolts supposedly are TTY (torque to yield) and should only be used once (at least that's what I'm starting to piece together); those suckers are $9 each and you'll need 16 of them.
Just a little heads up into what you could be encountering. Good luck.
06-27-2012, 08:50 AM
#38
I just found out I have a bad head gasket on my 96 4Runner engine with 125,000 miles (coolant in the cylinder), so I'll be tearing into mine this weekend too.
I guess Toyota was still figuring out how to make a durable, non-asbestos, head gasket to work with the cast iron block and aluminum heads (the same or similar issue that plagued the 3.0...or at least part of the 3.0's problems) during the early years of the 5VZ, I'm not sure when they found the winning combination.
So far, the best/only 5VZ head gasket writeups I've found...
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=7462.0
And Toyota has a couple different head gasket kits, one is just a gasket kit (head gaskets, plenum gaskets, intake manifold gaskets) for about $150 or a complete top-end rebuild kit (everything you should need just without any new hardware (nuts/bolts)) for about $450. The head bolts supposedly are TTY (torque to yield) and should only be used once (at least that's what I'm starting to piece together); those suckers are $9 each and you'll need 16 of them.
Just a little heads up into what you could be encountering. Good luck.
I guess Toyota was still figuring out how to make a durable, non-asbestos, head gasket to work with the cast iron block and aluminum heads (the same or similar issue that plagued the 3.0...or at least part of the 3.0's problems) during the early years of the 5VZ, I'm not sure when they found the winning combination.
So far, the best/only 5VZ head gasket writeups I've found...
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=2241.0
http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=7462.0
And Toyota has a couple different head gasket kits, one is just a gasket kit (head gaskets, plenum gaskets, intake manifold gaskets) for about $150 or a complete top-end rebuild kit (everything you should need just without any new hardware (nuts/bolts)) for about $450. The head bolts supposedly are TTY (torque to yield) and should only be used once (at least that's what I'm starting to piece together); those suckers are $9 each and you'll need 16 of them.
Just a little heads up into what you could be encountering. Good luck.
