3.4 Swaps The 3.4 V6 Toyota engine

Final issue on 5-speed/3.4 swap

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Old Jun 26, 2011 | 01:36 PM
  #1  
timmJ's Avatar
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From: Folsom, CA
Final issue on 5-speed/3.4 swap

Hey guys I have on last question on my swap. During the 3.4 swap I also converted from Auto to manual. I have everything up and running and it is amazing (thank you Yotatech guru's!!). My question is with the clutch switch. I put in a '97 manual 4runner so I have the manual ecu and wiring harness. My runner was a 95 auto 4runner so my body harness is the auto stuff. Right now i can start the engine with the clutch not pushed in so i must have wired up something wrong.

How do i make the clutch switch function start to work with the system? I am afraid I won't pass the ref with this feature not functioning. Right now I have the starter wired directly in without running it up to the relay. Is this part of the issue??? I have searched and it is difficult to find someone who has done this conversion while doing the manual at the same time. Please help me understand what I can do to make the system function.

Thanks!!
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 06:21 AM
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From: Fresno, Ca.
Your truck will not have the bypass switch installed so you really didn't wire anything wrong; just need to add the switch and a relay if you want it that way.

Do you have the switch installed on your clutch bracket? If so, it should be a simple wiring job to run the starter lead from the ignition switch through the relay and toggle the relay with a ground lead from the clutch switch to allow it to close the circuit.

Here is the EWD in case you do not have it.

http://home.comcast.net/~dntsdad//TR1si5vz97.pdf
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 03:35 PM
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From: Folsom, CA
Thanks Jason - I am actually looking to connect the clutch switch that is on the pedal into the starting system so that as the clutch is pushed down it starts but will not start when it is not pressed down. Do you think the refs will pass me if I leave it like I have it (Can start the car with the clutch in or out)? My thinking is no because they would view it like a safety feature..

So maybe my starter is wired wrong.. Right now I have a wire coming out of my IH2 (or IH1, cant remember) plug going straight to the starter. I read a thread that did it like this but either I may have mis read it or they also have it wrong. As I write this I am thinking that the starter is now engaging the entire time I drive and will eventually burn out... I don't know why this is not making logical sense to me.. Jason do you think this is occuring? I asked this same question to Chris (Hamish18) and he hasn't looked at it yet. I will keep studying the wiring diagrams but so far the light bulb hasn't gone off

Any help forcing me to understand this concept would be amazing!!

Thanks!
Jason
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Old Jun 27, 2011 | 04:22 PM
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From: Fresno, Ca.
You have a wire coming out of the ignition switch that is black with a white stripe I believe. This wire will be hot when the key is cranking. That same wire will be in the passenger kick panel where you probably tagged all the wires for the 3.4 swap. Again, it will ONLY be hot when the key is in the crank position.

Find that wire in the kickpanel and splice it to a similar size wire (I used 12 ga. wire I think) and that should run out to the starter, on the small terminal. Also, in this splice you need to run a small wire out to the STA terminal on the ECM. I am not sure of the exact plug terminal off the top of my head.

Now to get the clutch pedal working properly, you are going to have to interrupt that starter wire when the clutch is not engaged. Probably a bunch of ways to do this but if it was me, this is how I would do it.

Take the wires from the clutch switch and ground one side. Take the other side and run it to a Bosch relay (or another similar QUALITY RELAYi.e. P&B.....NOT a cheap Chinese relay) on terminal 85. Cut the starter wire and run the ignition switch side of the wire to 30 and jump it over to 86 as well. Finally, take the other side of the starter wire you cut and run it to 87 on the relay.

This would leave the circuit open, and not allow voltage past the relay, until the clutch was pressed down, which would engage the relay and then complete the circuit.

The EWD above does this a little different, but both would work.

I don't think that the ref is going to care about the vehicle starting without the clutch engaged. In fact, I'll bet he doesn't even know. My guy had an assistant that did all the driving, starting, etc.

Remember, this is not a SAFETY inspection. Simply a smog check.
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