Adding Late Model Cruise Control
11-06-2015, 11:33 AM
#1
Adding Late Model Cruise Control
At the behest of another member I have decided to post a quick "explanario" about how I added a late-model servo actuated cruise to my 1990 VZN110 with a new 3.4 mill.
The donor was a 2000 4Runner. Yanked the cruise control servo/ECU combo (they are inclusive of one another) unit with cable attached and the bracket. Cut the wiring harness from it and left a 6" pigtail to work with. Grabbed about 12' of 15 conductor, 22AWG wire. Spliced the cable to the pigtail and ran it through the cowl inside the pass. side fender where I put the factory air inlet snorkel. Ran the cable along and behind the dash and down into the LH kick panel where the wiring from the trucks cruise comes into and where the cruise control main relay resides. Yank the relay and the existing cruise control ECU and pitch them in the nearest waste receptacle. Get under the hood and yank the vacuum servo actuator and the aux. vacuum pump and all the bracketry and have them join their recently displaced brethren in said waste receptacle.
At this point you can either cut all of those wires and seal them up nice and neat or just leave them be. I chose the former.
Mount the new servo in a convenient place within actuator cable's reach on the RH fender...the same general locale as would be on the donor vehicle.
Just cut and splice the wiring as shown in the schematic drawings I have supplied from the old existing wiring harness to the newly placed wiring cable. Don't forget to bring up the three wires from the engine ECU that need to be wired into the cruise control. In the case of my 1998 4Runner ECU those were: E12-7 "O/D", E9-17 sol. "S2" and E12-11 "IDLO".
Attach the cable to the TB and make sure there is no slack.
Enjoy your new cruise control!
It works with my MECHANICAL speedo (up to '93) with the SP1 (speed sensor #1) reed switch. Should work with the electronic speedo head as they incorporate a D to A circuit for the cruise control. Actually, I am using a combo meter pulled from a 1997 T-100 that I modified with LED gear position indicators with repainted needles and I swapped out the function indicator overlays from my original speedo. A little bit of rewiring on the printed circuit to match the added functions and all is well. Those of you who just do a direct swap of the cruise controls will not need to do any rewiring to the combo meter.
The cruise control relies on just the signal from the speedo. (and for the ABS on some models) The #2 sensor on the trans has no bearing on theoperation of the speed control.
The Jap made as well as the Ford made Servo/ECU controls work the same.
Let me explain that this is what I did to MY truck which now has the 5VZ-FE. If you wanted to attach this to an existing 3.0 then you will have to get creative with the placement of the servo. I am not certain if the cable is long enough to reach from the area in which the existing cruise control resides. Here again, the later model Runners and trucks up to '95 that have a early version servo operated cruise on the LH fender already might not need this upgrade but it was a slam dunk for upgrading the old vacuum operated POS!
Enjo!
The donor was a 2000 4Runner. Yanked the cruise control servo/ECU combo (they are inclusive of one another) unit with cable attached and the bracket. Cut the wiring harness from it and left a 6" pigtail to work with. Grabbed about 12' of 15 conductor, 22AWG wire. Spliced the cable to the pigtail and ran it through the cowl inside the pass. side fender where I put the factory air inlet snorkel. Ran the cable along and behind the dash and down into the LH kick panel where the wiring from the trucks cruise comes into and where the cruise control main relay resides. Yank the relay and the existing cruise control ECU and pitch them in the nearest waste receptacle. Get under the hood and yank the vacuum servo actuator and the aux. vacuum pump and all the bracketry and have them join their recently displaced brethren in said waste receptacle.
At this point you can either cut all of those wires and seal them up nice and neat or just leave them be. I chose the former.
Mount the new servo in a convenient place within actuator cable's reach on the RH fender...the same general locale as would be on the donor vehicle.
Just cut and splice the wiring as shown in the schematic drawings I have supplied from the old existing wiring harness to the newly placed wiring cable. Don't forget to bring up the three wires from the engine ECU that need to be wired into the cruise control. In the case of my 1998 4Runner ECU those were: E12-7 "O/D", E9-17 sol. "S2" and E12-11 "IDLO".
Attach the cable to the TB and make sure there is no slack.
Enjoy your new cruise control!
It works with my MECHANICAL speedo (up to '93) with the SP1 (speed sensor #1) reed switch. Should work with the electronic speedo head as they incorporate a D to A circuit for the cruise control. Actually, I am using a combo meter pulled from a 1997 T-100 that I modified with LED gear position indicators with repainted needles and I swapped out the function indicator overlays from my original speedo. A little bit of rewiring on the printed circuit to match the added functions and all is well. Those of you who just do a direct swap of the cruise controls will not need to do any rewiring to the combo meter.
The cruise control relies on just the signal from the speedo. (and for the ABS on some models) The #2 sensor on the trans has no bearing on theoperation of the speed control.
The Jap made as well as the Ford made Servo/ECU controls work the same.
Let me explain that this is what I did to MY truck which now has the 5VZ-FE. If you wanted to attach this to an existing 3.0 then you will have to get creative with the placement of the servo. I am not certain if the cable is long enough to reach from the area in which the existing cruise control resides. Here again, the later model Runners and trucks up to '95 that have a early version servo operated cruise on the LH fender already might not need this upgrade but it was a slam dunk for upgrading the old vacuum operated POS!
Enjo!
Last edited by 69sixpackbee; 11-06-2015 at 02:26 PM.
03-12-2019, 08:02 AM
#6
Registered User
This just saved my swap's cruise control, nice work, and thanks for the diagram! For future searchers, it looks like '97-'98 was when they switched over to the integrated actuator/ECU under the hood. I downloaded all the diagrams from TIS for my '97, wrote up a spreadsheet on connectors to transfer for CC, then went looking for the ECU where the FSM said it would be, in the radio area...and it wasn't there. Checked the actuator, but it was just labeled "actuator", and Ebay had a bunch of separate '97 CC ECUs for sale, which really threw me off. But actuator is also the ECU on my donor, in spite of what the FSM and Ebay say. Thread exchange over at T4R clued me in, also a '97 - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post2643923 Donor 4Runner was built 4/97.
For manual swap you'll need to add the clutch cancel switch wire to pin #13, and delete the OD/ECT wires. Update: clutch switches are momentary switches in reversed circuitry from 2nd gen to 3rd gen. 2nd gen the circuit closes when clutch is depressed and grounds the ECU terminal, 3rd gen circuit opens when clutch is depressed and cuts power to ECU. You will need the switch from a 3rd gen to retain clutch/cruise functionality or it will redline if you push clutch while cruising. Switches thread right into the same position, cut plug from 3rd gen as well, of course, tie in a new wire to 3rd gen cruise ECU terminal "D" into a wire at the clutch switch (B-W on mine) and run power to the other wire and circuit will work like it should - at least that's what it appears, I haven't dropped the engine in yet so this is going by diagrams and continuity tests so far.
For manual swap you'll need to add the clutch cancel switch wire to pin #13, and delete the OD/ECT wires. Update: clutch switches are momentary switches in reversed circuitry from 2nd gen to 3rd gen. 2nd gen the circuit closes when clutch is depressed and grounds the ECU terminal, 3rd gen circuit opens when clutch is depressed and cuts power to ECU. You will need the switch from a 3rd gen to retain clutch/cruise functionality or it will redline if you push clutch while cruising. Switches thread right into the same position, cut plug from 3rd gen as well, of course, tie in a new wire to 3rd gen cruise ECU terminal "D" into a wire at the clutch switch (B-W on mine) and run power to the other wire and circuit will work like it should - at least that's what it appears, I haven't dropped the engine in yet so this is going by diagrams and continuity tests so far.
Last edited by jbtvt; 03-12-2019 at 01:44 PM.
05-13-2019, 01:15 PM
#7
Registered User
This just saved my swap's cruise control, nice work, and thanks for the diagram! For future searchers, it looks like '97-'98 was when they switched over to the integrated actuator/ECU under the hood. I downloaded all the diagrams from TIS for my '97, wrote up a spreadsheet on connectors to transfer for CC, then went looking for the ECU where the FSM said it would be, in the radio area...and it wasn't there. Checked the actuator, but it was just labeled "actuator", and Ebay had a bunch of separate '97 CC ECUs for sale, which really threw me off. But actuator is also the ECU on my donor, in spite of what the FSM and Ebay say. Thread exchange over at T4R clued me in, also a '97 - https://www.toyota-4runner.org/3rd-g...ml#post2643923 Donor 4Runner was built 4/97.
For manual swap you'll need to add the clutch cancel switch wire to pin #13, and delete the OD/ECT wires. Update: clutch switches are momentary switches in reversed circuitry from 2nd gen to 3rd gen. 2nd gen the circuit closes when clutch is depressed and grounds the ECU terminal, 3rd gen circuit opens when clutch is depressed and cuts power to ECU. You will need the switch from a 3rd gen to retain clutch/cruise functionality or it will redline if you push clutch while cruising. Switches thread right into the same position, cut plug from 3rd gen as well, of course, tie in a new wire to 3rd gen cruise ECU terminal "D" into a wire at the clutch switch (B-W on mine) and run power to the other wire and circuit will work like it should - at least that's what it appears, I haven't dropped the engine in yet so this is going by diagrams and continuity tests so far.
For manual swap you'll need to add the clutch cancel switch wire to pin #13, and delete the OD/ECT wires. Update: clutch switches are momentary switches in reversed circuitry from 2nd gen to 3rd gen. 2nd gen the circuit closes when clutch is depressed and grounds the ECU terminal, 3rd gen circuit opens when clutch is depressed and cuts power to ECU. You will need the switch from a 3rd gen to retain clutch/cruise functionality or it will redline if you push clutch while cruising. Switches thread right into the same position, cut plug from 3rd gen as well, of course, tie in a new wire to 3rd gen cruise ECU terminal "D" into a wire at the clutch switch (B-W on mine) and run power to the other wire and circuit will work like it should - at least that's what it appears, I haven't dropped the engine in yet so this is going by diagrams and continuity tests so far.
Hey thanks for your manual trans update on this scenario. I am in the middle of deciding if its worth trying to keep cruise control on my 88 4runner 3.4 swap (from a 97 4runner manual). I am curious, how does swapping the clutch switch type not interfere with the clutch cancel switch?
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05-13-2019, 01:59 PM
#9
Registered User
05-13-2019, 05:56 PM
#11
Registered User
True I should point out that the only reason I will eventually get around to swapping mine is that it didn't work before. Although supposedly the electronic system is an upgrade over the vacuum system
05-13-2019, 06:09 PM
#12
Registered User
I read the same, and thought it would be nice to keep the newer cruise if possible because of fitment reasons in the engine bay
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