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Old 06-07-2005, 06:51 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Do I need a puller to replace the inner tie rod?

All I need to do is replace the inner tie rod.

Is it possible to separate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle (i think that is what it is called) without using a tie-rod puller?

Can I just remove the castle nut and cotter pin, separate the outer tie rod, then unscrew it from the inner tie rod,
and then unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack?

Or is the only way to separate the outer tie rod from the ? by using a puller thingy-ma-bob?

Also, do I need any special tool to unscrew the inner tie rod from the rack?

This is a for a 97 4Runner.

Thnx!
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Old 06-07-2005, 07:14 PM   #2 (permalink)
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Your gonna need a puller for both tie rod ends, at the knuckle arm and the relay rod. Most auto parts stores sell them. The shafts are tapered and very doubtful they would just pull apart unless they are seriously damaged.
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Old 06-07-2005, 08:12 PM   #3 (permalink)
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you CAN seperate the outer tie rod from the steering knuckle without using a puller. use a hammer. hit the steering knuckle right where the outer tie rod end goes into the steering knuckle-you might have to hit it a couple of times...dont be afraid to hit it hard- then the outer end should pop out of its hole. as for the inner tie rod end, remove the bellow boot and there should be a jam nut or just a big nut, break those loose and it should unscrew.

Good luck
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Old 06-07-2005, 10:01 PM   #4 (permalink)
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You can, but its alot easier with a puller, I picked one up from Harbor Freight for a whole 7 dollars! Alternatively, you could rent one for the day from Schuck's, etc. Count the threads before replacing the rods to help minimize alignment issues after the install.
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Old 06-08-2005, 04:52 AM   #5 (permalink)
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while you are already replacing tie rods, do both. Even though the outter looks alright, alot of times by the time you actually get it removed you bust up the seal holding the grease. As for the inner tie rod my only expierence with that was on a fwd VW GTI. The inner tie rod tools would not work on that car so I droped the lower control arm and cv axle. THen got a big pair of channel locks to bust that bolt holding the tie rod on. When you do reinstall, use a thread locker type sealent on the threads.
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Old 06-08-2005, 07:55 AM   #6 (permalink)
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Alright, I'm going to order the small tie-rod puller ($6.99) from Harbor Freight.

Is there any other misc special tools I should get to make the shipping worth it?
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Old 06-08-2005, 08:09 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I agree with Justanother4x4. Replace all the tie rods while you're in there. You're going to have to get it aligned anyway and if one is worn the others are probably also. That is unless the one that's bad got hung on a rock or something. I've always used one of those 'pickle fork' type of tie rod splitters. Works OK but sometimes you've really got to wail on the thing with a hammer. I've also broken them free by rapping both sides of the tie rod with two hammers at the same time.
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Old 06-08-2005, 09:50 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Just replaced all my tierods last week. Yes, you can just replace one side w/o removing both, but I'd still recommend just doing both inner & outer while you're at it.

Started on the driver side ... I used a fork puller with an air hammer attachment - didn't work (maybe I just got a week air hammer) ... Then I just whaled on the fork with a 4lb sledge ... still took about 10 or so good whacks to break it loose, wasn't fun.

For the passenger side I didn't feel like going through that again - so I picked up a puller that attaches to a rachet or breaker bar, which makes the job MUCH easier!!! Be sure to get the right size (there are diff. sizes for tierods, pitman arms, etc....)

One main thing about tierods - instead of counting the threads, I'd recommend measuring the entire length of the tierod and make sure it's put back together with as close to the same length as possible ... ALSO, make SURE the sleeve is in the MIDDLE, i.e. try to have equal amounts of thread on both sides ... I didn't do that and the alignment shop nearly ran out of thread on the outer trying to get it alligned up - almost had to pull the tierods back off to adjust 'em UGH. So make sure you got plenty of thread on both sides and you should be fine.

Good luck!
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Old 06-08-2005, 11:22 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Thanks for all the advice guys!

I decided to order both outer tie rods and another inner for the passenger side.
Might as well do the whole thing right.

Also found that there is a Harbor Freight in Denver, so I'll stop by pick up one of those tie rod pullers.

Hopefully it will all go smoothly and then I can get another alignment.

Firestone is going to hate me.

I signed up for the lifetime alignment a month and a half ago and have already had
two alignments (once after my lift, another after my new tires/wheels), and now this
one after the new tie rods
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Old 06-08-2005, 12:47 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Crux
Firestone is going to hate me. I signed up for the lifetime alignment a month and a half ago and have already had
two alignments (once after my lift, another after my new tires/wheels), and now this
one after the new tie rods
ROFL - you know, the last 2 alignments I had done I remember considering getting the lifetime alignment dealio ... instead just got one time jobber ... but I never really thought about the benefits per the above experience. That's pretty cool!
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