ktmrider37

I have a 85 runner w/ a 22re automatic. I have recently replaced the fuel filter, fuel line, plugs, wires, dist. cap w/ rotor. It still sputters very bad off of the bottom, especially when the motor is cold. It will run slightly beter when the motor is at normal temp? Could this be the timing being completely off....???EGR??? any helpful tips or hints

This ad is not displayed to registered members. Register your free account today and become a member on Yotatech!

4Crawler

Could be the EGR is opeing too soon. Check the BVSV (Bi-metal Switching Valve) to make sure it is not letting vacuum through to the EGR modulator until the engine is warm.

__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

Lt. Dan

I coulden't belive how far off my timeing was, and the engine still ran!! It was like a new engine...(oh yeah ...it is a new engine).
At least check the timeing.

__________________
85 4-Runner,
New Engine, Auto Tranny ,4" Lift, 32" Tires, Flowmaster Muffler, Suntop Soft Top....BLÅH....BLÅH....BLÅH.....

pinemind

Roger,

I've been having the same exact problem for awhile but I've ignored it since the engine runs fine after warming up. However, I'd like to correct this problem. I'm a bit of a newbie when it comes to working on engines. I've tried cleaning out the throttle body and the air valves around it in case they were clogged but that didn't help.

How would one go about 'checking' the BVSV and EGR and where are they located? If you have info on your site, feel free to point me there rather than retype everything.

I appreciate any help anyone can shed light on what seems like a somewhat common situation with the 22RE.

Peace,

Justin

__________________
1985 4Runner :.: 2" BL :.: 3" Downey suspension lift :.: BFG 33x10.5 Mud Terrains :.: MTX 10" sub (stolen. boo) :.: long list of expensive upgrades

4Crawler

EGR valve is at the back of the intake plenum, big rusty cast iron "thingy". Modulator is the round plastic thing atop the valve cover with vacuum lines running to it and one that runs to of all places, the EGR valve. Follow the vacuum line from the modulator along the v/c to a gray plastic thing beklow the TB with 2 vacuum lines connected to it. One of those comes from the TB, and one goes to the EGR-mod. Its purpose is to block vacuum when cold, open when warm, passing vacuum to the EGR-mod. Simple test is to see if vacuum is present on the BVSV outlet when cold. The facotry service manual has full testing details. It it quite siple if you just follow the lines and make sure vacuum is present when it is supposed to be and not when it is not.

__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club

pinemind

Now I'm going to sound like a total moron. Feel free to harass after this one:

What's an easy way to check for the vacuum? Take the hose off and feel for air moving?

Sincerely yours,

Mechanically D. Clined

__________________
1985 4Runner :.: 2" BL :.: 3" Downey suspension lift :.: BFG 33x10.5 Mud Terrains :.: MTX 10" sub (stolen. boo) :.: long list of expensive upgrades

4Crawler

A vacuum gauge is the likely tool to use, since it is made to measure "vacuum". Even better option is to get a hand-operated vacuum pump with gauge attached and you have two tools in one. A gauge to test vacuum with and a pump to apply vacuum to testing vacuum operated things with. And add a brake bleeding kit and you can also bleed brakes with the same tool:



http://www.jcwhitney.com/autoparts/P...oup?Ntt=vacuum

__________________
1985 Toyota 4Runner SR-5, 22REC engine, dual t-cases, 4.88 gears, dual ARBs, 33x10.50 BFGs or 35x12.50 MTRs
r.c.brown@ieee.org
TruckEditor@tlca.org
Project: 4Crawler
4Crawler OffRoad
Gettin'Off 4WD Club