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#1 (permalink) | |||||
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raymond, WA and Benicia, CA
Posts: 69
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Front drive shaft
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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker. |
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#2 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Here in the PNW
Posts: 3,264
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I think the 83 is the same as 84-85. If you're going to sas you wont be able to use any stock driveshaft it will just be too short.
You could make a square one for super cheap like i did. They have tons of travel and are super strong. ![]() Or you could go about 300-500 and order a custom long spline
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. . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . . |
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#3 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: May 2008
Location: way way nor cal
Posts: 1,577
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DAMN ALGRANGER! That thing is sweet!
I think I might go that route when I do my SA. Nice pic!
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94 Ext. cab 22re Aussied, 4.88's, SAS,ed, FLATBED, Old Man Emu rear leafs w/TG 5.5" shackles, TG sliders, LC Header, Marlin super HD clutch, 32's- Swamper TSL's- RC rims, Badland Bumper, lifted, lighted, LED'ed, Warned, alternatored (LC High ouput), Hammed, gusseted, trussed, etc, etc... My build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f152/great-w...ck-sas-164531/ My Flatbed build thread http://www.yotatech.com/f88/toyospea...-build-191787/ |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2008
Posts: 6
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I like that drive shaft, but what's up with the shackle pushed up against the body mount?
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#5 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raymond, WA and Benicia, CA
Posts: 69
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I don't know that much about it, but wouldn't it be cheaper to get a driveshaft and have it lengthened then have a new one built (Assuming that I didn't want to go the square tube route). On the other hand, just out of curiosity, what size tube did you use? Is that just 2.5x2.5 with .25 wall with a 2x2 inside?. Where did you get the u-joints?. How fast can you go with you 4x4 engaged before you notice the drive shaft wobbling? Sorry for all the questions, but I have considered this option too, I just really like the idea of having my drive shaft ballanced so when I drive through the snow I don't have to unlock my hubs all the time.
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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker. |
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#6 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2008
Posts: 17
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Quote:
I believe they'll balance it and all to so if it's a DD or you're locked in on road, then you'll want to have a decent balanced shaft. I had Jesse at high angle build both of mine. Very happy with the results; although for having $800 wrapped up in both of my shafts I guess I'd better be pleased!
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SAS 92' v6 auto runner bobbed; pickup tailgate, pickup rear window. Custom fabbed bed w/ toolbox. Arb's front & rear, 5:29's, Rear leafs up front, 63" chevy out back. |
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#7 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2008
Location: Raymond, WA and Benicia, CA
Posts: 69
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One more question. Does anybody know if the bolt pattern on the pinion flange on an IFS diff is the same as the bolt pattern on the pinion flange of an 8 inch.
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1988 Pickup 4x4, 33x12.5 BFG All Terrains, 1.5" AAL, 1.5" ball joint spacers, OME torsion bars, 4.88 gears, rear true trac and front aussie locker. |
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#8 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 925
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I know the drive shaft shops can lenghten and balance your STOCK driveshaft for around $100 or less. Custom 10" long spline balanced shafts with super u-joints are gonna hurt your wallet. Tom woods makes a nice shaft. As far as the bolt pattern goes They should be the same 79-83 had a differnet pattern. No big deal though if different you could swap pinion flanges or drill the new bolt pattern in the flange
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#9 (permalink) |
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Registered User
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: B-TOWN, Oregon
Posts: 564
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trail-gear.com has a long spline kit you can make your own with an ifs shaft and there 10" slip unit.
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SAS 89,trussed, bobbed, Trail Gear front & rear 5''. 3.0 V6 cold air k&N, 40 ser. flowmaster, 5speed, HP ARB font diff, Marlin Crawler inner's and marfields. 5.29 yukons, Detroit rear, 35''x13.5 toyo's. Steadily growing body damage. Two way alarm, TG rock defense bumper, Warn 8000, TG crossmember,geard rive t-case w/marlin XD 4.7s. TG Sliders, some day dual cases and a cage |
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#10 (permalink) | ||
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Registered User
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Here in the PNW
Posts: 3,264
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Quote:
Quote:
If we got much snow here i would have a different driveshaft cause i know what its like to have to drive 45 on the freeway in 4wd and that would suck with a square DS. If i were you i would just lengthen a stock one unless you have the money to buy a beefier long spline.
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. . . I said lie, for me lying under a process tree . . . . |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Kona, Hawaii
Posts: 108
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Quote:
Nice job on the driveshaft! ________________________________ 85 Toyota p/u 4X4 SBC 327 (and too damn powerful) 99 Toyota 4-Runner 4X4 (wifeys) 69 Kaiser Jeepster Commando 4X4 (27k original miles, my daily driver) |
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#12 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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the 83 axel doesnt have the bottom guesset the 84 and 85 axels do that the axel every one seeks after
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#13 (permalink) |
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Registered User
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how long do i need to make the front drive shaft with a sas and 6in leafs
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#14 (permalink) | |
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Registered User
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: Tacoma, Washington
Posts: 925
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Quote:
Its the 79-80 SFA that is naked. you can beef up any axle with a mig machine. |
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| Tags |
| drive, driveline, ebay, front, gear, hd, jesses, long, questions, sale, shaft, shafts, slip, spline, square, toyota, trail, trailgear |
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