A couple quick questions on SAS
#1
Vehicle: 1995, 3.0, 5-speed, ext. cab pickup
I'm looking at the SAS kit from marlin crawler: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/suspension/sas.htm and for the rear: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/sus...n/rear_kit.htm
1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?
I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?
I'm looking at the SAS kit from marlin crawler: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/suspension/sas.htm and for the rear: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/sus...n/rear_kit.htm
1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?
I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?
#2
well the first thing you have to realize as toyota used to have leaf springs in the front and the reason they got rid or them was for a smother ride the new front leaf springs will made you ride a little stiffer your taco will fell like an f250 but as for the rear springs there the same save i believe it just a matter of bolting them up and as a side note you might want to look into the trail gear sas kit its a little cheaper and it has all the same pieces
hope i helped in some way
and good luck
hope i helped in some way
and good luck
#4
The SAS should ride a lot better than your stock stuff.
I would double check the rear springs. AFAIK, they are longer.
If you are doing a SAS, you are looking to maximize offroad performance. To do that, you will lose on road functionality. Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche?
Don't drive it like a sports car, and you'll be just fine.
I would double check the rear springs. AFAIK, they are longer.
If you are doing a SAS, you are looking to maximize offroad performance. To do that, you will lose on road functionality. Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche?
Don't drive it like a sports car, and you'll be just fine.
#5
Vehicle: 1995, 3.0, 5-speed, ext. cab pickup
1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?
I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?
1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?
I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?
I would suggest doing a lot more research and reading the installation instructions for the modifications to get a better grasp of what has to be done.
You have to relocate the front hanger and both the rear attachment points, as the springs are longer.
Last edited by rworegon; Nov 23, 2014 at 05:11 PM.
#6
Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche?
Nope, it's a truck and I expect it to ride like one. I was just wondering if it will be "loose" feeling because of the flex the springs have. I think the shocks should help that.
Nope, it's a truck and I expect it to ride like one. I was just wondering if it will be "loose" feeling because of the flex the springs have. I think the shocks should help that.
Last edited by HAVOC; Jun 18, 2008 at 05:31 PM.
#7
Yeah, the shocks would help for sure. In the rear try to not angle them a lot, I achieved to put the 12'' Bilsteins totally perpendicular to the ground without going through the cab.
The leaf springs from MC, AP, TG and those are packs with quite thin leafs so they flex nice and ride very very soft. I really like how my truck is now, it rides smoother now with 4'' SAS in front and 5'' leafs rear and 35's than before with BJ Spacers, OME 901's and 31's...
David
The leaf springs from MC, AP, TG and those are packs with quite thin leafs so they flex nice and ride very very soft. I really like how my truck is now, it rides smoother now with 4'' SAS in front and 5'' leafs rear and 35's than before with BJ Spacers, OME 901's and 31's...
David
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#9
Will I need to move the rear shackle hanger further back on the frame?
I see that MarlinCrawler (and others) include a new one in the kit but the frame is not boxed back there. Do I need to have that area boxed or leave it alone? I haven't been able to find online instructions for a rear lift (pickup).
I'm just wondering so I know how much welding I will need to have done. I can't weld so I'm having somebody from work do it.
I see that MarlinCrawler (and others) include a new one in the kit but the frame is not boxed back there. Do I need to have that area boxed or leave it alone? I haven't been able to find online instructions for a rear lift (pickup).
I'm just wondering so I know how much welding I will need to have done. I can't weld so I'm having somebody from work do it.
#10
From your questions I would suggest you do a LOT more reading and searching the Toyota forums for SAS and rear lifts done to your particlar year/make vehicle. Welding is the easy part but even that has to be done correctly.
Im afraid you don't quite yet understand the enormity of what you want to actually do to your truck.
I previosly mentioned that you would have to probably move all the hangers and no you don't have to box the frame.
Good luck.
Im afraid you don't quite yet understand the enormity of what you want to actually do to your truck.
I previosly mentioned that you would have to probably move all the hangers and no you don't have to box the frame.
Good luck.
#11
some people run a double shackle...... and that relocates the shackle side to where it needs to go due to the longer leafs
its a pretty easy conversion.
you can have the front hanger and frame jigs welded on before you cut the ifs off.
its a pretty easy conversion.
you can have the front hanger and frame jigs welded on before you cut the ifs off.
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