A couple quick questions on SAS

89dlx · 06-18-2008, 05:05 PM

Vehicle: 1995, 3.0, 5-speed, ext. cab pickup

I'm looking at the SAS kit from marlin crawler: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/suspension/sas.htm and for the rear: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/sus...n/rear_kit.htm

1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?

I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?

fatrick24 · 06-18-2008, 05:42 PM

well the first thing you have to realize as toyota used to have leaf springs in the front and the reason they got rid or them was for a smother ride the new front leaf springs will made you ride a little stiffer your taco will fell like an f250 but as for the rear springs there the same save i believe it just a matter of bolting them up and as a side note you might want to look into the trail gear sas kit its a little cheaper and it has all the same pieces

hope i helped in some way

and good luck

89dlx · 06-18-2008, 05:58 PM

Sorry, I should have mentioned that it isn't a Tacoma.

AxleIke · 06-18-2008, 06:05 PM

The SAS should ride a lot better than your stock stuff.

I would double check the rear springs. AFAIK, they are longer.

If you are doing a SAS, you are looking to maximize offroad performance. To do that, you will lose on road functionality. Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche?

Don't drive it like a sports car, and you'll be just fine.

***waskillywabbit*** · 06-18-2008, 06:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 89dlx

Vehicle: 1995, 3.0, 5-speed, ext. cab pickup

1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy?
2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart?

I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?

A SAS is for trail performance and the ride depends on the competency of the installer as welll as numerous variables.

I would suggest doing a lot more research and reading the installation instructions for the modifications to get a better grasp of what has to be done. Some are on our website.

You have to relocate the front hanger and both the rear attachment points, as the springs are longer.

89dlx · 06-18-2008, 06:28 PM

Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche?

Nope, it's a truck and I expect it to ride like one. I was just wondering if it will be "loose" feeling because of the flex the springs have. I think the shocks should help that.

Blizzard · 06-18-2008, 11:38 PM

Yeah, the shocks would help for sure. In the rear try to not angle them a lot, I achieved to put the 12'' Bilsteins totally perpendicular to the ground without going through the cab.

The leaf springs from MC, AP, TG and those are packs with quite thin leafs so they flex nice and ride very very soft. I really like how my truck is now, it rides smoother now with 4'' SAS in front and 5'' leafs rear and 35's than before with BJ Spacers, OME 901's and 31's...

David

customcruiser · 06-19-2008, 05:55 AM

I ran a full spool and my suspension would fully cycle to the bumpstops in parking lots......
other than that, it rode smooth and handled fine in curves on the road

89dlx · 06-21-2008, 04:00 AM

Will I need to move the rear shackle hanger further back on the frame?
I see that MarlinCrawler (and others) include a new one in the kit but the frame is not boxed back there. Do I need to have that area boxed or leave it alone? I haven't been able to find online instructions for a rear lift (pickup).

I'm just wondering so I know how much welding I will need to have done. I can't weld so I'm having somebody from work do it.

***waskillywabbit*** · 06-21-2008, 05:43 AM

From your questions I would suggest you do a LOT more reading and searching the Toyota forums for SAS and rear lifts done to your particlar year/make vehicle. Welding is the easy part but even that has to be done correctly.

Im afraid you don't quite yet understand the enormity of what you want to actually do to your truck.

I previosly mentioned that you would have to probably move all the hangers and no you don't have to box the frame.

Good luck.

customcruiser · 06-21-2008, 09:54 AM

some people run a double shackle...... and that relocates the shackle side to where it needs to go due to the longer leafs

its a pretty easy conversion.

you can have the front hanger and frame jigs welded on before you cut the ifs off.

06-18-2008, 05:05 PM	#1 (permalink)
89dlx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Branford, CT. Posts: 898	A couple quick questions on SAS Vehicle: 1995, 3.0, 5-speed, ext. cab pickup I'm looking at the SAS kit from marlin crawler: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/suspension/sas.htm and for the rear: http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/sus...n/rear_kit.htm 1: How is the ride on the street? This kit gives you needed flex, but does it make the ride bouncy? 2: The rear spring attachment points (spring hanger and shackle hanger), are they welded in the same position as the original ones or spaced more apart? I haven't seen anything that said these springs are longer than factory or not. Are the longer ones needed for the increase in lift? Say a 5" spring over a 3" spring?

06-18-2008, 05:42 PM	#2 (permalink)
fatrick24 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: Pepperell Ma Posts: 93	well the first thing you have to realize as toyota used to have leaf springs in the front and the reason they got rid or them was for a smother ride the new front leaf springs will made you ride a little stiffer your taco will fell like an f250 but as for the rear springs there the same save i believe it just a matter of bolting them up and as a side note you might want to look into the trail gear sas kit its a little cheaper and it has all the same pieces hope i helped in some way and good luck __________________ 1988 4runner 31 BFGs A/Ts 10 rust holes and 220,000 miles curent project 1997 chevy s10 i4 30 BFGs daily driver

06-18-2008, 06:05 PM	#4 (permalink)
AxleIke Contributing Member Join Date: Apr 2004 Location: Boulder, Colorado Posts: 4,536	The SAS should ride a lot better than your stock stuff. I would double check the rear springs. AFAIK, they are longer. If you are doing a SAS, you are looking to maximize offroad performance. To do that, you will lose on road functionality. Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche? Don't drive it like a sports car, and you'll be just fine. __________________ IFS SAS My mods aren't bling enough for the signature line. -All Terrains are for when you know how to drive.

06-18-2008, 06:28 PM	#6 (permalink)
89dlx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Branford, CT. Posts: 898	Were you expecting it to handle like a Porsche? Nope, it's a truck and I expect it to ride like one. I was just wondering if it will be "loose" feeling because of the flex the springs have. I think the shocks should help that. Last edited by 89dlx : 06-18-2008 at 06:31 PM.

06-18-2008, 11:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
Blizzard Registered User Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Barcelona (Spain) Posts: 871	Yeah, the shocks would help for sure. In the rear try to not angle them a lot, I achieved to put the 12'' Bilsteins totally perpendicular to the ground without going through the cab. The leaf springs from MC, AP, TG and those are packs with quite thin leafs so they flex nice and ride very very soft. I really like how my truck is now, it rides smoother now with 4'' SAS in front and 5'' leafs rear and 35's than before with BJ Spacers, OME 901's and 31's... David __________________ '94 Toyota 4Runner 3.0 Turbo Diesel Intercooler – Trail-Gear 4'' SAS front, Trail-Gear 5'' rear leaves swap, 35x12.5x15 M/T's and too many things more to write...

06-18-2008, 05:58 PM	#3 (permalink)
89dlx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Branford, CT. Posts: 898	Sorry, I should have mentioned that it isn't a Tacoma.

06-19-2008, 05:55 AM	#8 (permalink)
customcruiser Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN) Posts: 680	I ran a full spool and my suspension would fully cycle to the bumpstops in parking lots...... other than that, it rode smooth and handled fine in curves on the road __________________ 94 4Runner Truggy 60/14B, 3Link w/18" Air Shox Chopped & Exo'd 42's on H1 Beadlocks Pirate4x4 Build Thread 03 Tundra Crawler Hauler/Baja DD 3" Lift, Fiberglass Fenders Prerunner Bumper, (3) 9" Lights

06-21-2008, 04:00 AM	#9 (permalink)
89dlx Registered User Join Date: Oct 2006 Location: Branford, CT. Posts: 898	Will I need to move the rear shackle hanger further back on the frame? I see that MarlinCrawler (and others) include a new one in the kit but the frame is not boxed back there. Do I need to have that area boxed or leave it alone? I haven't been able to find online instructions for a rear lift (pickup). I'm just wondering so I know how much welding I will need to have done. I can't weld so I'm having somebody from work do it.

06-21-2008, 05:43 AM	#10 (permalink)
*waskillywabbit* Sponsoring Member Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 11,481	From your questions I would suggest you do a LOT more reading and searching the Toyota forums for SAS and rear lifts done to your particlar year/make vehicle. Welding is the easy part but even that has to be done correctly. Im afraid you don't quite yet understand the enormity of what you want to actually do to your truck. I previosly mentioned that you would have to probably move all the hangers and no you don't have to box the frame. Good luck. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC www.myspace.com/wabfab FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner GRAY FOR SALE: 1987 4Runner RED 6th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, May 22-25, 2009

06-21-2008, 09:54 AM	#11 (permalink)
customcruiser Registered User Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Race City USA (Mooresville, NC - LKN) Posts: 680	some people run a double shackle...... and that relocates the shackle side to where it needs to go due to the longer leafs its a pretty easy conversion. you can have the front hanger and frame jigs welded on before you cut the ifs off. __________________ 94 4Runner Truggy 60/14B, 3Link w/18" Air Shox Chopped & Exo'd 42's on H1 Beadlocks Pirate4x4 Build Thread 03 Tundra Crawler Hauler/Baja DD 3" Lift, Fiberglass Fenders Prerunner Bumper, (3) 9" Lights

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