Carving the Pigg
11-27-2009, 09:25 PM
#1
Carving the Pigg
Me and a goodfriend, started the actual cutting portion of the SAS today. Been collecting parts for over a year.
Wanted to stay as low as possible so we'll see.
-FROR hanger kit
-Allpro 4" springs
-'85 axle, 4.88 Aussie locked, with Marlin ball gusset, LC rotors, TG front diff armor, Timken/SRK bearings
-Allpro high steer
Got all the brackets ground down, most of the frame prep is done. Not to shabby for a days work. Should have axle installed tomorrow if all else continues to go well. Still waiting on parts, ordered shock hoops from Marlin. Of course they were missing some other parts of my order so won't ship them till next week. They were an impulse buy some may cvancel the hoops and go with F250 towers.
Haven't decided on shocks yet. Found some used bilstien 5150's for a good price, but was leaning towards monroe their much cheaper.
Wanted to stay as low as possible so we'll see.
-FROR hanger kit
-Allpro 4" springs
-'85 axle, 4.88 Aussie locked, with Marlin ball gusset, LC rotors, TG front diff armor, Timken/SRK bearings
-Allpro high steer
Got all the brackets ground down, most of the frame prep is done. Not to shabby for a days work. Should have axle installed tomorrow if all else continues to go well. Still waiting on parts, ordered shock hoops from Marlin. Of course they were missing some other parts of my order so won't ship them till next week. They were an impulse buy some may cvancel the hoops and go with F250 towers.
Haven't decided on shocks yet. Found some used bilstien 5150's for a good price, but was leaning towards monroe their much cheaper.
11-27-2009, 09:29 PM
#2
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Join Date: Jun 2009
Location: Helena Montana
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your right thats not to bad for a days work but to me it seems like marlin really needs to get a handle on there orders because when bleeder was doing his 22re rebuild it took them like 3 times to get his order right. But i cant wait to see more pictures and the finished product
11-30-2009, 08:41 PM
#3
Sunday night I drove home. Forgot my camera at the house Sat and Sun don't think I took any pics. Both days were really long. Sat we had to source some parts. I'll post some pics tomorrow.
Big thanks to Trailyota (NNW) for helping me out.
Big thanks to Trailyota (NNW) for helping me out.
12-03-2009, 08:12 AM
#5
I still need to get shocks leaning toward procomp E3000 or Bilstein 6100. Really don't want don't want something that every other SAS kit comes standard with would like to be different.
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12-03-2009, 08:22 PM
#11
Lots of primer, will get stuff painted soon.
The rear has 4" Allpro springs as does the front so I may have to stake steps to raise the rear. I had to do this in steps put the rear springs in when I installed the dual t-case. Still had IFS and didn't want the rear really raked with 5" springs. I'm not going to do anything with it till the winch is put back on and the springs have a chance to settle. A combination of longer shackles and steel lift blocks is what I'm looking at.
I like the shackle angle.
The bumpstops aren't installed yet I haven't flexed it either, just put shocks on tonight. Decided on Procomp ES3000, I like them so far. I mounted them with the body on the top, running boots on them and didn't want water and mud getting trapped in the boot and sit right on the shafts seal. If anyone knows of a reason I should flip them post up.
The puddle is not from truck. My welds are ugly but no pourosity and good penatration. I did initial pass over gap and hanger, channel ground it the ran over it again. Sometimes twice just cause I didn't like the shallow look. Don't think you can tell by the pics but the bolts that hold the winch to the factory crossmember were a hard pull away from pulling through. The upper most left mount is torn on the left rear side. I've got a FROR reenforcement plate to install. Am leaning toward cutting out the factory bolt mounts on the crossmember and going with some grade 8 on 10.0 metric bolts with the nuts welded to the reenforcement plate. Will have to on the upper most two mounts, plus place some heavy gussets. Any suggestions are welcome.
This has nothing to do with my truck except it was taken Sat morning when I forgot my camera.
Will try to get some better pics in the light, just never been much of a photo journalist.
The rear has 4" Allpro springs as does the front so I may have to stake steps to raise the rear. I had to do this in steps put the rear springs in when I installed the dual t-case. Still had IFS and didn't want the rear really raked with 5" springs. I'm not going to do anything with it till the winch is put back on and the springs have a chance to settle. A combination of longer shackles and steel lift blocks is what I'm looking at.
I like the shackle angle.
The bumpstops aren't installed yet I haven't flexed it either, just put shocks on tonight. Decided on Procomp ES3000, I like them so far. I mounted them with the body on the top, running boots on them and didn't want water and mud getting trapped in the boot and sit right on the shafts seal. If anyone knows of a reason I should flip them post up.
The puddle is not from truck. My welds are ugly but no pourosity and good penatration. I did initial pass over gap and hanger, channel ground it the ran over it again. Sometimes twice just cause I didn't like the shallow look. Don't think you can tell by the pics but the bolts that hold the winch to the factory crossmember were a hard pull away from pulling through. The upper most left mount is torn on the left rear side. I've got a FROR reenforcement plate to install. Am leaning toward cutting out the factory bolt mounts on the crossmember and going with some grade 8 on 10.0 metric bolts with the nuts welded to the reenforcement plate. Will have to on the upper most two mounts, plus place some heavy gussets. Any suggestions are welcome.
This has nothing to do with my truck except it was taken Sat morning when I forgot my camera.
Will try to get some better pics in the light, just never been much of a photo journalist.
Last edited by muddpigg; 12-03-2009 at 08:24 PM.
12-04-2009, 05:42 AM
#12
Looks good... Man its sooo much lower than a typical TG or MC 4/5" lift. I'll be doing my SAS in the spring and want to keep it low as well. Do you think the FROR hanger has something to do with it? Also what size tires are you gonna run? Thanx! And ...
... 
Last edited by runner88; 12-04-2009 at 05:44 AM.
12-04-2009, 06:20 AM
#13
The FROR front hanger is not as tall as my buddy's TG or Allpro front hanger. We used an allpro frametube jig and that was a mistake. So one of the parts we had to get was a set of frame tubes as the FROR tubes have a different OD than TG or Allpro. It costed more to pick out the pieces I wanted from different venders but I did it my way
I'm hoping the fron springs will settle a little and when I remount the winch and plate. Wanting to stay 33" for now tires still have loads of tread. Was thinking of possibly stepping up to a 305/70/17 on the new mtr which are 34.8 so a small 35". A low COG was my biggest concern and a wide stance. I got a set of 3" wheel spacers for the front and the 1.5" ones that are on the front right now for the rear. But that will require trimming of the rear fender wells and patching in sheetmetal.
I'm hoping the fron springs will settle a little and when I remount the winch and plate. Wanting to stay 33" for now tires still have loads of tread. Was thinking of possibly stepping up to a 305/70/17 on the new mtr which are 34.8 so a small 35". A low COG was my biggest concern and a wide stance. I got a set of 3" wheel spacers for the front and the 1.5" ones that are on the front right now for the rear. But that will require trimming of the rear fender wells and patching in sheetmetal.
12-04-2009, 07:44 PM
#18
88: I'll keep that in mind on next set of rims.
I've got two driveshafts a single a single and double cadgan joint. Both shafts are same length 31" the pinion nut to pinion nut is 35". Both shafts have longslip of either 10 or 12". I do run 45mph in 4wd during snow and the pinion of the front axle is not pointing at the t-case so a good probablity of drive shaft vibes. Any suggestions? Couldn't find angle finder so don't know how close to parallel the two pinion flanges are.
I've got two driveshafts a single a single and double cadgan joint. Both shafts are same length 31" the pinion nut to pinion nut is 35". Both shafts have longslip of either 10 or 12". I do run 45mph in 4wd during snow and the pinion of the front axle is not pointing at the t-case so a good probablity of drive shaft vibes. Any suggestions? Couldn't find angle finder so don't know how close to parallel the two pinion flanges are.
02-24-2010, 11:06 AM
#19
Registered User
My setup is very similar to yours (build thread in sig line) and I used a cv joint on my square front shaft. There are def vibes (but most of it I attribute to the square shaft itself), it is a few degrees off from pointing at the tcase. It would have also been a few degrees off to not use a cv joint. I plan on going dual cases, so I figured I would just lengthen my cv shaft for that, and the pinion will be at a pretty good angle then. The FROR shackles are 5.5", I was thinking of swapping to a set of 5" shackles, which according to my guestimated trig is good for about a degree at the pinion. Not sure I want to pony up for new shackles, as the FROR ones are bent and don't lend themselves to being drilled for a shorter shackle, plus that hair extra flex coming from the longer shackles is beneficial, seeing as how my shackle is a little more vertical than yours.
