Carving the Pigg

muddpigg · 11-27-2009, 10:25 PM

Me and a goodfriend, started the actual cutting portion of the SAS today. Been collecting parts for over a year.

Wanted to stay as low as possible so we'll see.
-FROR hanger kit
-Allpro 4" springs
-'85 axle, 4.88 Aussie locked, with Marlin ball gusset, LC rotors, TG front diff armor, Timken/SRK bearings
-Allpro high steer

Got all the brackets ground down, most of the frame prep is done. Not to shabby for a days work. Should have axle installed tomorrow if all else continues to go well. Still waiting on parts, ordered shock hoops from Marlin. Of course they were missing some other parts of my order so won't ship them till next week. They were an impulse buy some may cvancel the hoops and go with F250 towers.

Haven't decided on shocks yet. Found some used bilstien 5150's for a good price, but was leaning towards monroe their much cheaper.

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davo247d · 11-27-2009, 10:29 PM

your right thats not to bad for a days work but to me it seems like marlin really needs to get a handle on there orders because when bleeder was doing his 22re rebuild it took them like 3 times to get his order right. But i cant wait to see more pictures and the finished product

muddpigg · 11-30-2009, 09:41 PM

Sunday night I drove home. Forgot my camera at the house Sat and Sun don't think I took any pics. Both days were really long. Sat we had to source some parts. I'll post some pics tomorrow.

Big thanks to Trailyota (NNW) for helping me out.

BigBluePile · 11-30-2009, 10:27 PM

Sweet man!! Maybe that's what I should do and start squireling parts away for a SAS.

muddpigg · 12-03-2009, 09:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BigBluePile

Sweet man!! Maybe that's what I should do and start squireling parts away for a SAS.

Thanks, either squirl away parts or cash or a combination. Especially with the economy like it is people are selling parts now left and right. But I kinda feel guilty haggling a price but then again its not my fault. There's a guy on NWW selling a TG 4"SAS kit for $900 I've seen built axles up for sale too for good prices. If you get a built dif ZUK's page has a how to health check. I didn't have the tools or place to do it so I sent my difs too him. Peace of mind is worth its weight in gold to me.

I still need to get shocks leaning toward procomp E3000 or Bilstein 6100. Really don't want don't want something that every other SAS kit comes standard with would like to be different.

BigBluePile · 12-03-2009, 12:33 PM

Yeah I'll keep my eyes open on NWW. It'll be years before I SAS, hell, I barely have any time to do small projects let alone a major suspension job.

muddpigg · 12-03-2009, 01:26 PM

We worked a total of 34hrs x2 guys. We did have to make a couple part runs but mostly worked the whole time minus chow breaks.

BigBluePile · 12-03-2009, 05:42 PM

I figure it'll be a weekend deal...or in my case a summer...

**waskillywabbit** · 12-03-2009, 05:51 PM

SAS is a LOT of work.

BigBluePile · 12-03-2009, 06:06 PM

maybe I'll just move to AL...you know any fabricators there Wab??

muddpigg · 12-03-2009, 09:22 PM

Lots of primer, will get stuff painted soon.

The rear has 4" Allpro springs as does the front so I may have to stake steps to raise the rear. I had to do this in steps put the rear springs in when I installed the dual t-case. Still had IFS and didn't want the rear really raked with 5" springs. I'm not going to do anything with it till the winch is put back on and the springs have a chance to settle. A combination of longer shackles and steel lift blocks is what I'm looking at.

I like the shackle angle.

The bumpstops aren't installed yet I haven't flexed it either, just put shocks on tonight. Decided on Procomp ES3000, I like them so far. I mounted them with the body on the top, running boots on them and didn't want water and mud getting trapped in the boot and sit right on the shafts seal. If anyone knows of a reason I should flip them post up.

The puddle is not from truck. My welds are ugly but no pourosity and good penatration. I did initial pass over gap and hanger, channel ground it the ran over it again. Sometimes twice just cause I didn't like the shallow look. Don't think you can tell by the pics but the bolts that hold the winch to the factory crossmember were a hard pull away from pulling through. The upper most left mount is torn on the left rear side. I've got a FROR reenforcement plate to install. Am leaning toward cutting out the factory bolt mounts on the crossmember and going with some grade 8 on 10.0 metric bolts with the nuts welded to the reenforcement plate. Will have to on the upper most two mounts, plus place some heavy gussets. Any suggestions are welcome.

This has nothing to do with my truck except it was taken Sat morning when I forgot my camera.

Will try to get some better pics in the light, just never been much of a photo journalist.

runner88 · 12-04-2009, 06:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by muddpigg

...Wanted to stay as low as possible so we'll see.
-FROR hanger kit
-Allpro 4" springs

Looks good... Man its sooo much lower than a typical TG or MC 4/5" lift. I'll be doing my SAS in the spring and want to keep it low as well. Do you think the FROR hanger has something to do with it? Also what size tires are you gonna run? Thanx! And ...

...

muddpigg · 12-04-2009, 07:20 AM

The FROR front hanger is not as tall as my buddy's TG or Allpro front hanger. We used an allpro frametube jig and that was a mistake. So one of the parts we had to get was a set of frame tubes as the FROR tubes have a different OD than TG or Allpro. It costed more to pick out the pieces I wanted from different venders but I did it my way

I'm hoping the fron springs will settle a little and when I remount the winch and plate. Wanting to stay 33" for now tires still have loads of tread. Was thinking of possibly stepping up to a 305/70/17 on the new mtr which are 34.8 so a small 35". A low COG was my biggest concern and a wide stance. I got a set of 3" wheel spacers for the front and the 1.5" ones that are on the front right now for the rear. But that will require trimming of the rear fender wells and patching in sheetmetal.

**Tofer** · 12-04-2009, 07:27 AM

looks good man!! what ifs gears are those?

muddpigg · 12-04-2009, 07:35 AM

4:88's and locked. Deciding now if we're going to get a 4 door 2nd gen 4rnr for the wife. If we do then front dif and ARB are going into it.

BigBluePile · 12-04-2009, 08:52 AM

Looking good man!!

runner88 · 12-04-2009, 06:59 PM

For a wider stance you could also go for reverse offset rims.

muddpigg · 12-04-2009, 08:44 PM

88: I'll keep that in mind on next set of rims.

I've got two driveshafts a single a single and double cadgan joint. Both shafts are same length 31" the pinion nut to pinion nut is 35". Both shafts have longslip of either 10 or 12". I do run 45mph in 4wd during snow and the pinion of the front axle is not pointing at the t-case so a good probablity of drive shaft vibes. Any suggestions? Couldn't find angle finder so don't know how close to parallel the two pinion flanges are.

11-27-2009, 10:29 PM	#2 (permalink)
davo247d Registered User Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Helena Montana Posts: 392	your right thats not to bad for a days work but to me it seems like marlin really needs to get a handle on there orders because when bleeder was doing his 22re rebuild it took them like 3 times to get his order right. But i cant wait to see more pictures and the finished product __________________ 1988 p/u 4x4 22re- parked and dead =( (floped'er) The New-1988 p/u ex-cab 4x4 22re SR5 I think it has a 2" inch lift? rancho's. a jerry rigged cat-back and in the future: Rebuild with prefomance head intake,exsahst front bumber some tube doors,cb

11-30-2009, 09:41 PM	#3 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	Sunday night I drove home. Forgot my camera at the house Sat and Sun don't think I took any pics. Both days were really long. Sat we had to source some parts. I'll post some pics tomorrow. Big thanks to Trailyota (NNW) for helping me out. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994

12-03-2009, 01:26 PM	#7 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	We worked a total of 34hrs x2 guys. We did have to make a couple part runs but mostly worked the whole time minus chow breaks. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994

12-03-2009, 05:51 PM	#9 (permalink)
waskillywabbit Super Moderator-Sponsoring Member Staff Join Date: Jul 2003 Location: Tuscaloosa, AL Posts: 15,146	SAS is a LOT of work. __________________ WabFab Off-Road, LLC MySpace Twitter Facebook 7th Annual South East 4Runner Jamboree, 2010 The toughest part of a Jeep is the chick driving it.

12-03-2009, 09:22 PM	#11 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	Lots of primer, will get stuff painted soon. The rear has 4" Allpro springs as does the front so I may have to stake steps to raise the rear. I had to do this in steps put the rear springs in when I installed the dual t-case. Still had IFS and didn't want the rear really raked with 5" springs. I'm not going to do anything with it till the winch is put back on and the springs have a chance to settle. A combination of longer shackles and steel lift blocks is what I'm looking at. I like the shackle angle. The bumpstops aren't installed yet I haven't flexed it either, just put shocks on tonight. Decided on Procomp ES3000, I like them so far. I mounted them with the body on the top, running boots on them and didn't want water and mud getting trapped in the boot and sit right on the shafts seal. If anyone knows of a reason I should flip them post up. The puddle is not from truck. My welds are ugly but no pourosity and good penatration. I did initial pass over gap and hanger, channel ground it the ran over it again. Sometimes twice just cause I didn't like the shallow look. Don't think you can tell by the pics but the bolts that hold the winch to the factory crossmember were a hard pull away from pulling through. The upper most left mount is torn on the left rear side. I've got a FROR reenforcement plate to install. Am leaning toward cutting out the factory bolt mounts on the crossmember and going with some grade 8 on 10.0 metric bolts with the nuts welded to the reenforcement plate. Will have to on the upper most two mounts, plus place some heavy gussets. Any suggestions are welcome. This has nothing to do with my truck except it was taken Sat morning when I forgot my camera. Will try to get some better pics in the light, just never been much of a photo journalist. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994 Last edited by muddpigg; 12-03-2009 at 09:24 PM.

12-04-2009, 07:20 AM	#13 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	The FROR front hanger is not as tall as my buddy's TG or Allpro front hanger. We used an allpro frametube jig and that was a mistake. So one of the parts we had to get was a set of frame tubes as the FROR tubes have a different OD than TG or Allpro. It costed more to pick out the pieces I wanted from different venders but I did it my way I'm hoping the fron springs will settle a little and when I remount the winch and plate. Wanting to stay 33" for now tires still have loads of tread. Was thinking of possibly stepping up to a 305/70/17 on the new mtr which are 34.8 so a small 35". A low COG was my biggest concern and a wide stance. I got a set of 3" wheel spacers for the front and the 1.5" ones that are on the front right now for the rear. But that will require trimming of the rear fender wells and patching in sheetmetal. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994

12-04-2009, 07:27 AM	#14 (permalink)
Tofer Super Moderator Staff Join Date: Jul 2004 Location: Tacoma WA. Posts: 7,054	looks good man!! what ifs gears are those? __________________ 94 4runner: all the good stuff....... 89 4runner: 3.0, Auto, back to 4.10 gears. 31x10.5 wildcountry ATs. 81 2wd pickup: 22R \| 5-sp \| long bed \|Civic SI seats \| LockRight \| Hella 500s pacific-crawlers.com For all your Trail-gear and HID lighting Solutions Needs check out yotaworks.com Online store coming soon :)

12-04-2009, 07:35 AM	#15 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	4:88's and locked. Deciding now if we're going to get a 4 door 2nd gen 4rnr for the wife. If we do then front dif and ARB are going into it. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994

12-04-2009, 06:59 PM	#17 (permalink)
runner88 Registered User Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 11	For a wider stance you could also go for reverse offset rims.

12-04-2009, 08:44 PM	#18 (permalink)
muddpigg Registered User Join Date: Mar 2007 Location: injured and stateside :( Posts: 1,562	88: I'll keep that in mind on next set of rims. I've got two driveshafts a single a single and double cadgan joint. Both shafts are same length 31" the pinion nut to pinion nut is 35". Both shafts have longslip of either 10 or 12". I do run 45mph in 4wd during snow and the pinion of the front axle is not pointing at the t-case so a good probablity of drive shaft vibes. Any suggestions? Couldn't find angle finder so don't know how close to parallel the two pinion flanges are. __________________ http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rqtr_RvR3sY Balljoints, 26mm torsion bars, idle arm for sale. Open to trades and offers. http://www.yotatech.com/f11/ball-joi.../#post51268965 Non ADD locked 4:88 front axle. http://www.nw-wheelers.com/forum/showthread.php?t=47994

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