4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Looks OK, but for sure test out the connections before hooking things up. You can make a simple test light out of a plain 12v bulb, like an 1156 turn signal bulb. Solder or connect wires to the center and side of the bulb base and use those wires to test the potential connections. For example, connect one side of the test light to the place you plan to tap your switched power from. Connect the other wire of the test light to chassis ground and see that it lights when the power is switched on. This would test your manual mode. Then move the wire hooked to ground over to the high beam wire on the headlight and repeat the test. This would verify your automatic-on-with-high-beam mode.

Godzilla

Yes i will double check the wiring no doubt before hooking up. Now for the switch does it make sense as i have the switch have high beam wire 6, wire to relay ground 5, chasis wire 4 and another ground at 2 for the lights?
http://4x4mods.com/Product/Jeep/Rock...rswitch40.html

Godzilla

So one of the last questions is regarding the high beam tap. My understanding is that whne the high beam is off the wire is 12v+. This is obviously going to my switch then. Is this fine? Im assuming so as that is how most light setups work, maybe just different amps. Also will my DRL or low beams on one side be dimmed? Thank ya kindly...I got the IPF's 968 and cant wait to get them on.

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

The DRLs are usually done on the low beams. A high wattage resistor is added in the ground leg of the low beam circuit and this keeps the lights on, just dimmer with the current limited by the resistor. When the full low beam power is needed, then there is a relay wired across the big resistor that shorts it out, letting full current flow thorugh the low beam filaments.

Best to dig up a copy of the Factory Service Manual wiring diagram and this will all be clear.

Godzilla

oh ya im sure itll be clear as mud demonstrated by my previous posts and my electrical genius..ahaha