Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys - installing a Delco Remy GM alternator on my 87 4Runner 22RE. I have the Trailgear bracket kit and got some 4 gauge wire for the alt-bat connection.

What I'm trying to figure out is how to splice the wires - I found several existing threads on GM alternator swaps - below - but still a little confused.


http://www.toyotaoffroad.com/Article.../Chevy_Alt.htm

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f115.../#post51274972

http://www.ultimateyota.com/index.ph...6&topic=9965.0


Here is the pigtail that came with the alternator:
S F L P on the plug, but only wires coming from "S" and "L". Inside the plug, there are only metal contacts for those 2 letters as well (even though the female plug on the alt itself has 4 metal prong contacts)



The "L" wire runs into this green plug, and has the same wire coming out again - I am guessing it's some kind of fusible link??

And then there is this black wire that came with everything, though not connected to anything:



No clue what that is....

And then there is the pulley - I want to swap my 22RE pulley so I can keep my OEM belt - but how the heck do I remove this from the GM one??



I have the right size allen wrench (5/16"), but both the nut and allen are recessed inside the pulley...can't get a wrench on the nut....


OK, so back to the wiring questions!

On one of the threads I found was this diagram:


I have "S" (connects to TOYOTA WHITE)
I have "L" (connects to TOYOTA YELLOW)
However I don't have "F" on mine....do I need to do anything or just connect the white and yellows?

Do I need to disconnect the positive battery return OEM cable since I'm hooking up my own 4 gauge? The current one goes through my fuse box I believe, then to the battery - I believe this is it, with a fusible link in between it and the battery terminal that goes to my starter:



Here is my OEM pigtail with white, yellow, red, and battery return:




And lastly, any tips on "piggybacking" these wires would be welcome - I can solder, poorly, but I can. And I have heat shrink tubing.

Thanks in advance!

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Phil,

Here is a really nice write up about the wiring. It's for a 5vz but it looks like all the same wires are involved. Hope it helps.

http://www.expeditionportal.com/foru...05#post1250105

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

That's a great write up, thanks! I think it answers my questions - use the white and yellow toyota wires but ignore the red one on the OEM wiring. Sounds Like I would ignore the OEM lead from the alt to the battery,and run the fuse box wire to the + terminal on my battery, like I had before - is that how you read it too?

"The large 4 gauge red wire I ran from the alternator output post straight to the "+" battery terminal. The "+" terminal is also connected with the original wiring to the factory fuse block. I ran the alternator ouput wire straight to the battery terminal because I have a winch. It's not shown in the wiring diagram drawing, but in the last photo above you can see the cables coming up and over the forward edge of the dual battery holder with one going to the "-" post and one going to the "+" post of the left hand (primary) battery. I wanted to avoid having the winch be able to pull all of its power through the factory fuse block wiring. This way it's pretty much a straight shot to the alternator with large wires."

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

Yep. That's how I read it too. Hopefully an electrical guru will straighten us out if thats not right.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Does anyone know if there is a standard adjuster bolt size for GM alts? The one I have I think is from an early 90s cadillac and didn't come with the bolt :/

Also, got mine installed last night and there is not much play in it, left to right - it sits really close to the timing cover water outlet pipe, and contacts the motor mounts pretty soon after pushing it to the drivers side - is this normal? I'm using the trail gear bracket mount kit



thanks!

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Chef Yota asked me to check out this thread. I installed a cs144 on my 83 pickup. It's normal to not have much room on in the engine bay to slide left/right. I have to drain my engine coolant and pull a hose/the fan shroud to get my alt in. I had to go up a little bit on belt size to make it work also. As far as the bolt I used the one out of a 94 Caddy Deville. I know its fine thread but no idea on the thread-pitch size. I wanna say M12-25, but idk if that correct. Lowe's or a Tractor Supply would have what you need. I walked in my local Tractor Supply with my alternator and bolt in it to get a lock nut to put on the back side of it. I had a problem with the bolt working loose from vibration and had to get a lock nut.

As for the pulley swap I did put my stock pulley on the GM alt. I managed to get it off by putting an allen wrench in the center and holding it while angling a crescent wrench in their to turn the nut. Its very tricky and frustrating but it will work.

Good luck to ya

BLKNBLU

iTrader: (1)

So this would be plain old dumb luck if this would work for you on the pulley removal but below is a trick I used on strut mount replacement on the VW. If a spark plug socket would fit for you that would be perfect. Allen wrench down the middle, hold with a pipe of some sort, turn the socket with a regular wrench.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks to both of you for the tips! Does the nut turn ccw to unscrew or is it reverse threaded?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

It is normal threaded so ccw.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Hi guys - took it into a HW store today and got the bolt along with washer and lock washer. It's a 10x1.5mm bolt for those who wanted to know

I tried last night to get the nut off the pulley and could absolutely not! No wrench can fit in there due to the depth of the pulley. the spark plug socket I have is not large enough, and the socket that does fit (22mm I think?)...well I can't have the socket on there and the allen wrench on at the same time - can't hold the socket in place.

I'm going to try to run the GM pulley on it, but am worried a little because it's a grooved/ribbed belt and my crank pulley is all single row (not sure if that's the right term) belts....when I get another belt can I just run a replacement belt that's ribbed but skinny as my OEM belt so it fits on my crank pulley?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

This isn't gonna work. You will probably either throw a belt or destroy the belt.Take it to a local mechanic and pay them like $5 - $10 to pull off the GM pulley so you can put the stock one on it. I did this when I put a new bearing in my idler pulley.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks for the heads up - I'll take that route and get some professional help on the pulley swap

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

So I take it to my local auto parts store today. They were able to pull the pulley off the Toyota alternator and got the nut off the GM alternator with an impact wrench... but could not get the pulley off to GM alternator. I have some gear pullers so I'll try that at home.


The issue seems to be that the hole in the GM pulley is larger than the hole in the Toyota V belt pulley. So I need to find a way to drill a larger hole in the Toyota V belt pulley to use it on the GM alternator

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

Got the answer for that too:

http://www.ifsja.org/forums/vb/showthread.php?t=131960

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Wow thanks for that! Can't wait to try this now. Will report back soon.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

I tried out that 'whack with a hammer' technique just now with a 27mm impact socket and it popped the collar right off on the third whack - awesome!

The only issue is that the Toyota Pulley is still a tad small for the shaft on the GM alternator, so I think I will have to take it to a machine show to get the hole made larger? Not something I'd want to try at home since if it's one bit off, it could destroy the bearings in the alternator, right?

When I do get the V pulley back on, I keep the GM cooling fan and plate on (behind it), and use the same washer and GM nut, correct? I shouldn't need any kind of spacer to make the pulley line up with my crank pulley?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

That's kinda weird. Mine fit on the GM alt fine. But yea I would let a machine shop do that. If it's not perfect it could make the pulley wobble or something.

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Thanks again.

Question....what is the best way to put the nut back on? Just by hand? With an impact wrench? Does it require a certain torque?

83Toyota88

iTrader: (1)

I just made sure mine was tight with a wrench. Their probably is a specific torque rating but I have no idea what it is

Philbert

iTrader: (2)

Oh, and this is the wiring plan I was leaning toward for when I get it all installed.

The thick wire in the drawing is 4 gauge.

The dashed line wire is ~10-12 gauge wiring.

The 150A fuse...does that need to got closer to the battery or to the alternator? I have a 4 gauge wire for the alt-bat connection but I'd rather not cut it and splice in the fuse...can I just hook it to the + terminal, and then to the end of the 4 gauge wire that goes to the alt?