straight axle price?
#1
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straight axle price?
i have someone that wants to sell me an axle (thanks to kaleb who suggested a want ad) and this guy has no idea what their goin for, i don't want to rip him off but obviously i don't want to pay too much, what do you guys think is a fair offer?
#4
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seems like alot of people on the board have no problem paying 200 and up for a SFA...i think its nuts...the two local boneyards usually have SFA trucks and for 75-90 bucks for the axle...
150 sounds reasonable if its in good condition (i.e. no leaks, bearings and whatnot are good) good luck!
150 sounds reasonable if its in good condition (i.e. no leaks, bearings and whatnot are good) good luck!
#6
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depends how high ur going, the IFS d/s is about 5" longer than a stock SA d/s, the flange bolt pattern is also different on the SA so if you do stay with a IFS d/s ur going to have to drill new holes in the flange..no biggie, you'll probably want to get ur stock IFS shaft lengthened
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#8
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I wouldn't pay much over $100. By the time you build it the only thing left is the housing pretty much anyways. As a minimum it's going to need a full rebuild but I'd also truss it, armor it and go hysteer. Don't get suckered into the SAS thing thinking all you need is a solid front axle. My axle has over 3 grand into it...
#9
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I wouldn't reccomend using an IFS shaft. The shaft is designed to slip almost none at all. Once you go to a solid axle there needs to be a lot of slip, no matter wht I would buy a long slip kit or go with a square shaft. I have seen guys on the trail try to use a stock shaft and they end up underneath there vehicle putting their driveshaft back together.
#10
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I wouldn't pay much over $100. By the time you build it the only thing left is the housing pretty much anyways. As a minimum it's going to need a full rebuild but I'd also truss it, armor it and go hysteer. Don't get suckered into the SAS thing thinking all you need is a solid front axle.
You NEED some bracing like this:
http://frontrangeoffroadfab.com/nfos...a5ebea2ac44d5e
If you're going to use 5.29 or 5.71 gears, I would HIGHLY recommend a high pinion third (30% stronger than a "regular" thirdmember):
http://www.marlincrawler.com/htm/diff/pickup_diff.htm
(They were used in 80 series landcruisers, but are tough to find in a 'yard)
As mentioned above, you won't need the steering stuff, because histeer is all different anyways. You also won't want the springs - they're too short and don't flex for crap.
#11
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With steering, brakes, and manual hubs I think the going rate is around $200. I would pay that for an 85 axle. Much more isn't worth it since you should upgrade to Longfields and high steer.
#12
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Oh yeah - most guys make a square drive shaft by cutting their stock front driveshaft and using 2 square pipes. I wouldn't recommend that for the rear since there will be a lot of vibrations.
#13
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I payed 300 for myne, still need to change out ring and pinion theres another 180 dollars. I wouldnt have payed more than that.
Last edited by weakyota91; 09-25-2007 at 08:30 PM.
#14
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Keep your IFS drive shaft. Make a square drive shaft like Victor said. Then clearance the shaft like this http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/cvmod/ Your stock rear drive shaft will work fine
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(4 bangin runner) its out of a 85 runner. Hhas very rusty calipers but those get changed out anyways but axle itself has absolutly no rust and isnt even dirty. its in very good condition still has grease oozing out around the birfields
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