milowilli

I am sure some folks have had hell removing the Crank pulley bolt on the Toyota engines. Some of you may have used this method. I do it by first removing the coil wire on 22Rs and 3VZ so the engine wont start....(TEST ENGINE) Get a HALF INCH power bar long enough to fit a socket on the bolt and to rest the handle on the drivers side frame. Make sure the socket is snug on the bolt and the handle rests on the frame on the drivers side . Click the starter.for 1-2 seconds..it will release the bolt...works all the time. For the 5VZ remove the EFI IGN fuse (turn over engine to make sure it dosnt start)

rockota

I'd amend your statement by stating it works "much of the time." It simply doesn't work all the time.

profuse007

the method will work if you don't have proper tool. 700ft-lbs and a little patience will loosen. Sometime it doesn't just pop out, you just have to go at it for couple of minutes straight and try again.

Toyota vehicles do not have the worst crank bolt or even come close to honda vehicles prior to 2000 models.

Adam F

Guess I was lucky. Mine came right off using an impact.

NCSU-4runner

The problem with removing the crank bolt is having the engine rotate. Simply putting it in gear does not provide enough resistance to break loose a bolt that's been attatched for a long period of time since you will actually start moving the vehicle itself (ask me how i know ).

A much safer way is to simply remove a spark plug from a cylinder and fill it with rope, provides perfect stoppage of the engine rotation to have something to push against, then its just up to having a big enough breaker bar. I've never had a problem using this method.

surf4runner

didnt work for me mine had to be chiseled out

profuse007

maybe i should ask, how do you know?

rope method is worst than the starter method. I've heard the method but its just dumbfound, it may and may not work. what if you tell a newbie to do that and put too much rope in and bend a valve or two?

Bill

I really like having a short impact driver. I had to pull the radiator, but the combination of 5th gear, 4Hi and e-brake on(t-case brake) and it came off easy as pie with a quick squeeze.

NCSU-4runner

you're not gonna bend a valve with compressed rope, i just dont like the idea of spinning things with the starter. And theres no way it won't work as long as your breaker bar is long enough. All you have to do it have a way to force the engine to stop rotating. In the end its personal preference. I've used the rope technique half a dozen times with no troubles.

MTL_4runner

Everyone has their surefire way to remove the crank pulley bolt and almost all of them are valid, just depends on personal preference. I prefer a 2' chain wrench (crank pulley wrapped in an old bike tire to prevent slippage) and a 3' pipe slipped over a ratchet to remove it on mine.....not much I can't remove that way either. I can also do it witn my IR2131 impact gun, but it requires a bit more work to remove the fan shroud and radiator to give me some working room on the front of the motor.

maxpower_hd

I agree. There is always more than one way to skin a cat. My motor was out of the truck and on the engine stand before I figured out how hard they are to remove. My impact gun wouldn't even do it.

I ended up placing a large screwdriver through the cam gear (valve cover romoved) and placing a piece of cardboard between it and the head to protect the head. Then I used my 2' breaker bar with a pipe on the end to break it loose. It worked fine. I should mention that I was also replacing the timing set as part of a rebuild so I wasn't too worried about breaking anything.

I too don't like the idea of making the starter do the work. It just doesn't seem like the safest way to me.

mt_goat

Yeah that rope method would scare the ˟˟˟˟˟ out of me. There is one problem with the starter method, what if the starter isn't on the engine? Plus it only get's it off, you still have to get it retorqued too.

RustBucket

iTrader: (1)

I had that trouble once, but it was with a 22re that was on a stand. I drilled two holes in a 2' piece of angle iron and bolted it onto the back of the crankshaft, then put a 6' bar on the bolt and it finally came off with 9,000,000 lb-ft of torque.