Tdavis03

iTrader: (1)

Ok so i snagged a pair of aisin hubs from a friend for DIRT cheap. couldnt pass em up
So I've read several threads but I kinda feel like Ive been led in circles lol
Do I just remove the hubs and slap the new ones on?? or is there more to it?

I have a 92 runner...

sc87yota

Im in the process of doing the same thing with my 91. Im guessing you have ADD like my rig. Ive read all kinds of stuff but have ?'s about locking the fork properly, putting the hubs on is the easy part. Heres some links I have read but still want to know the best way to lock the vacuum fork(hose clamp? really.....)

http://www.4x4wire.com/toyota/tech/autohub/

https://www.yotatech.com/forums/f129...er-mod-200971/

MaK92-4RnR

I actually prefer ADD with manual hub conversion. still gives you shift on the fly, if you leave the hubs unlocked. I did the conversion on my 92, swap them out, put the manual hubs on. Done.

91 4Runner

Yep, just swap them and then have the luxury of shift on the fly (with hubs in locked position) and 2 low (with hubs unlocked - shifter in 4 low position)

That's what I did on my Runner....

sc87yota

Nobody locked the fork?

wii_tarded

If I'm speaking correctly, you still need to lock the fork, and that's easy. Take the cover off, slide it over, use a hose clamp to fill the void to keep it from sliding back and then put the cover back on.

rattlewagon

I put a ADD front diff in my 87 with manual hubs. I have my fork locked in place with a hose clamp. Works great with no issues.

You have 2 options with the fork. You can lock it in place, which is the easy way to go. Or you can get a solid long tube from a non add truck that eliminates the need for the fork completely. The downside of this is you will have to take the front diff out to change the shaft.

Hope that helps.

2DoorRunner

Swap to a non add front diff. Stronger. None of that unreliable ADD crap. And very cheap.

rattlewagon

The add diff is actually a little beefier due to having stronger needle bearings on the pass side. Its just the long shaft that weaker, but its not really that weak, you have about the same size collar in the locking hub.

So its not as strong as the non ADD tube, but its still pretty darn strong.

Tdavis03

iTrader: (1)

more circles... hahaha Thanks for all the input...but still, half of everyone says to lock with the hose clamp, half say not...hmmm hmmm hmmm

wii_tarded

It's really up to you. If you don't lock the shaft, then you still have to rely on the ADD system to engage to get 4WD, even if your hubs are locked...leaving the option for a 2LO.

If you lock the shaft, now all you have to do is lock and unlock the hubs.

Personal choice.

rattlewagon

well put wii-tard

sc87yota

Thanks for the info! thats what I was looking for!

sc87yota

I think im just wording it different. It doesnt matter if you lock the fork or not as long as the hubs are unlocked you can 1.)get 2low and 2.)keep the cv's from spinning for 2WD conditions??.. right?
What happens with the vacuum lines when the fork is locked with hose clamp?

rhill

so...umm....i feel dumb. I don't have manual hubs, I'm just confused. If you don't lock the fork, can you leave the hubs locked all the time and just shift into 4HI or 4LO? Or should you still leave the hubs unlocked all the time, then lock em when you want 4wd, THEN shift?

wii_tarded

If you have a 4WD, without manual hubs, then the hubs are already "locked". The end of the CV shaft is fully engaged with the wheel. By shifting into 4(LO or HI), you activate a switch that actuates the vacuum and slides the fork over, locking the front end into 4WD.

rattlewagon

Just plug the vacuum lines.

sc87yota

Crites_Seth

I've been doing some reading and now I'm really confused. I have a t100 with the ADD system. Never had a problem with them, but I really need to boost up my fuel mileage. The truck gets 17 when driven normal, but 13 when I'm behind the wheel (I don't drive the freeway much). So if i were to switch to manual locking hubs, can I just bolt up the new hub? I really don't understand what the hose clamp does...

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

Just swap the hubs and you can leave the rest of the ADD stuff as-is. The hose clamp mod. is to lock the ADD actuator full time. But if you are having no issues with the ADD and simply want to unlock the hubs for most of the time, manual hubs will do that. Then, when you may want to use 4WD, lock the hubs, then your normal shift-on-the-fly 4WD mode will work just like it does now.