yotantn

Ok, got a NICE shiney turned rotor and hub ready to go back on:

I will be ordering rebuilt caliper and brake lines and rear seal. Everything else is ok.


Now, keeping everything real, at this point I just want to get her back rolling and running again, not a show undercarriage.
What about cleanup here, before I put it all back together.You guys clean like those leaf springs, just old rusty/moldy stuff?
Other question, do you soak the bearings in some cleaner or something and repack with new grease? The bearings are fine. And that spindle, you clean the old grease off it?
I know sounds stupid, but I'm in no big hurry and want to do it right and learn as I go. Have to do the same with other side when this dnne.
What else do you do while that is all off?
And, that rubber brake hose..it's not leaking and looks fine. Some say I should replace it as long as I've got it this far down. I dunno...just seems more expense and trouble for something that ain't broke. And if it ain't broke, don't fix it.
Thanks,
Mark

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Search username "Toyospearo" and look at his axle rebuild thread.

:wabbit2:

yotantn

So.....are you suggesting I rebuild the front axle?

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

I'm suggesting you look at his thread.

Most of the questions you've asked thus far are pretty common and well documented.

:wabbit2:

yotantn

Wow. Ok then.

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I would replace the rubber hoses the major cost and expense is pulling it all apart and then bleeding brakes .

You are doing both sides??

I never clean wheel bearing unless the get dirty just repack.

You do know how to repack wheel bearings??

We all do things different it gets rough working in the shop with no shoes

yotantn

I thought about replacing the rubber hoses.
Yes, to both sides.
I've already got the bearings out. Some say to soak em and clean em up. But really, right now, I just want it running, rolling and stopping again. Tweaks later.
I might leave the same grease. It looks good, not milky or anything. Bearings are fine. Got that turned rotors said they looked great. Yea, I repacked em once years ago before I quit driving her. Just put fresh grease on everything and make sure it's sealed up tight. I gotta replace that rear seal too.
And, thanks for your person to person answer buddy.
That's what makes forums useful and not just another search engine.

I hope to get that wheel/caliper back on later next week sometimes.

yotantn

Starting to put it all back together now. Following Chiltons diagrams to make sure. It recommends torquing to x amount of lbs on the locknuts. My torque wrench is broken, is not reliabe I don't think.
Is that pounds of torque important? Do you guys just tighten until the rotor stops spinning and then back off some till it spins freely. Or is that total redneck.
I'll go buy another if I need to.
Just wondered. I've never torqued my lugnuts and they've never come off.
Thanks.

GuitarMike

Did you get it together? There was a write-up somewhere around, and I had it, but now don't, sorry!
You get it together hand-tight (socket only, no handle on it). Then spin forwards like 20 times, backwards 20, forwards 20, back 20. Then go about 1/8 turn tighter, spin forwards and back again.
There's not much torque on them. Then you lock it all down.

I did mine months ago, and have had no problems since then. See if you can find that tutorial...it was on 4Crawler or something.

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

www.ncttora.com/fsm

FSM details how to put it back together. It also depends if you use new wheel bearings or not. Seems like 40 ft-lbs on first 54 mm nut to seat then spin, back off to around 20 ft-lbs then star and other nut to same. Bend tabs.

It's all in the FSM with torque specs.

:wabbit2: