Jtoy92huntin

Hi,

I have been looking on this site for a while and tried searching around to find an answer that would fix my truck. So, my 1992 Toyota Pickup with the good ole 22re engine had 230k miles on it. Ran good but couldn't make it up hills on the interstate. I thought it was the timing chain off a bit so I replaced it but ran the same. So, I decided I'd rebuild the whole thing. Replaced everything, installed a brand new head as well and got it back together and now it won't start.
I set the timing chain to the compression of number 1 piston at it's highest point with the dark link at 12 and the crank gear at 6. Then lastly the distributor put the rotor at 12 and pushed it in until it was fully in and rotated to the left. I put in a new battery because the old one was pretty much dead (2006). When I did this it started but stalled out and now still not starting. I've read a lot of responders saying that the timing is wrong but I have made sure this is not the case.

I'm a little embarrassed posting this since I have worked on cars for a while but this is kicking my ...
I'm also really sweating it since I need this truck running very soon for hunting.

If anyone could help I would greatly appreciate it.

Thank you!

snobdds

Your timing is off by a tooth. It should still run though. The hold down bold should be about dead center when the dizzy is inserted. It looks a little "off" in the last picture. There should be a little match mark on the gear at the end of the dizzy and that should be at 12:00 when you insert it.

It looks like your chain is on right, but once you put on your balancer you moved the motor to 5* BTDC and then insert the dizzy right?

Jtoy92huntin

From everything that I have read, the top link should be just to the left(1159 ish) from the notch in the pic. I put the dizzy on while it was on 0 deg. TDC. I did the same thing last time when my engine was not rebuilt since I replaced the dizzy before the rebuild and it started up.

snobdds

There are two types of timing, cam and ignition. The cam timing is the relationship between the cam and the crank via the timing chain. The timing chain looks right, so your cam timing is correct. It's your ignition timing that is off.

With the motor at TDC on the compression stroke, like you have it in pic one. Now rotate the engine to 5* in relation to the marks on the oil pump. Then turn the rotor on the dizzy until the little indent on the gear is at 12:00. Then insert the dizzy, keeping the match mark at 12:00 until it starts to move back to 10:00 when fully seated. The hold down bolt should be about dead center of the adjustment range. Then start the truck and warm it up and set the idle to about 800 rpm. Jump TE1 and E1 in the diagnosis box and put a timing light on it. It should be at 5*, as that brings it back to base timing. Then unjumper the leads and recheck the timing, the mark should now be at about 12*.

The key here is most people forget to move the motor to 5* after the timing chain (cam timing) has been set. If you insert the dizzy at 0* or TDC, your timing will always be 1 or 2 teeth off. Now if this is a 22r, then the ignition timing is set at 0* or TDC. Your timing your engine to the specs of the 22r, not the 22re

Jtoy92huntin

Just tried that and still nothing

snobdds

Well an engine needs air, fuel and spark.

Check to make sure the AFM is hooked up. Make sure fuel is getting to your fuel rail. Make sure your coil is providing spark.

Are you saying it just cranks or does it run, but just not well?

Jtoy92huntin

Everything is hooked up (except for the lone plug with no home in sight, two wired plug that was like that when I bought it).
It just cranks like if the efi fuse was out(its in and not blown).

abeD85flatbed

in your initial post you said that the crank gear was set at 6. it should be at twelve, if you set it with the keyway pointing down that is the culprit. the keyway needs to point up.

Jtoy92huntin

The crank gear (the one on the bottom) the little circle knock on it and dark colored link is suppose to be facing down and the cam gear notch faces up.

snobdds

No...

Yes, the key way is at 12:00, but the chain and notch are suppose to be at 6:00.

Vexwar

I had an issue with my 85 4rnr when i rebuilt the 22re motor. How I got it go finally start for me was to move the crank to 10* retard on the crank and the cam at 12:00. I had the distributor at >1* off the one mark on the case.

Jtoy92huntin

Ok, so I finally got a compression tester and read 0 psi... don't know any engines that will run like that.
I honestly do not know how the timing chain is off but that is what it has to be. Wow. I do not even feel like taking all that stuff off again and thinking that I'm doing it right. I made sure that air blew out the #1 cylinder and at the highest point put the cam notch at 12 and the crank dimple at 6. I don't know how I F...... that up but apparently I did. Really debating on whether to just have someone else do it so I can have it done asap and more importantly RIGHT. (shaking my head for the last 2 days).
Thanks for your help snobdds.

snobdds

Don't go to that extent yet. Just take the valve cover off and bring the motor to TDC. The front two rocker arm followers should be loose. If there loose and the cam is at 12 with the bright colored link is like your first picture, then your cam timing is right.

Then check the compression again...

Vexwar

If you need to move the chain on the cam gear you can use a long screw driver to push the chain tension out of the way to move the cam gear without taking off the chain cover as well. Its a two man thing but it saves a lot of removal

Jtoy92huntin

Ok so I'm really confused. I turned the engine until I felt air out of the #1 and all the marks line up. The rocker on the exhaust is loose to the cam but the intake side is tight. Could this mean that I just need to adjust the rockers?

Vexwar

If the intake cam is tight then
that means your timing is still off. At TDC the piston one should be in either fireing or releasing mode. They should both be loose. If either one is tight then you need to check your timing

Jtoy92huntin

reason why I asked because looks like the intake should be loose but not when the exhaust is.
The head and cam is brand new, that's why its causing me more of an issue because I did not know it should be set other than looking at the lobes compared to the old one (left it the way I took it out).

Jtoy92huntin

IT RUNS LIKE NEW!
Ok, so the timing chain was on right but the valves were not adjusted properly, I had not touched them and were over tightened causing the valves to stay open and not seal the cylinder.
Thank you all for the help through this, I almost resorted to taking to a shop and costing a thousand dollars.
So Happy! "HAPPY HAPPY HAPPY!"