SidewaysInto3rd

Came across a 92 3vze 5 spd extra cab with a solid axel and a custom flat deck .. No rush anywhere on the body or frame so I picked it up for a good deal without looking too much into it

Later I notice difference size tires front and back (31x10.5 front, 32x11.5 back, one new and one very worn out tire).. so I didn't bother trying the 4x4 till I sourced out matching tires (33x12.5)

put it in 4x4, lock the hubs and she's binding so bad I cant drive it at all

Jack it up, spin the tire and count

22.75 DS spins to 10 tire in the back = 4.56 gears
20.5 DS spins to 10 tire in the front = 4.10 gears

ok great .. source out a 3rd with 4.56 and truetrack on craigslist and pick it up..

my plan is to slap that thing in the back and swap my rear 3rd up front. My research tells me this is a straight forward job. Never done it before but I know how to turn a wrench so we'll see how this job will go.

Should I get new axle seals or anything else while I'm on that job ?

Next steps would be to open the t-case or have a shop check it out, who knows what kind of abuse that thing has taken by it's previous owner (though the mismatch tires and gears may have more or less cancelled each other out)

Engine has near perfect compression 4x180 psi and 2x175 .. not sure when the timing belt (chain?) was done .. Are these interference engines ? Can I just drive it till the timing belt goes ?

Next up would be to take some detailed pics of the SAS job and post it to the SAS forum and have the pros tell me if it was really a hack job or not

Anyway, been a long time lurker, first post as a newb. thanks all

dropzone

iTrader: (6)

might as well do as much stuff to rebuild the front end while you are at it since you have to take it all apart to do the third anyway
bearings, seals, brakes...

you can down load the service manual here:
http://ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

waskillywabbit

iTrader: (-1)

Start with pictures newb.

:wabbit2:

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

I always seem to run different size tires I am not sure how it happens most often 4 different wheels also.

It is possible I change them when asleep!!

Matt16

I'm assuming its almost identical to the Land Cruiser front axle, in which case you'll want to replace or examine some components while everything is apart. The front axle seals, if original, are due to be replaced. As well, the hub grease seals (they're made of felt). If theres been no preload on the front bearings or they look suspect, I'd replace them too because its easy now. Front rotors slightly warped? Replaced them too.


The basic procedure to get the diff out is:

1. jack the truck up
2. pull the tires
3. remove calipers
4. take off 4wd hubs
5. undo the 40mm(?) nuts that hold the hubs onto the spindle
6. remove wheel hub and rotor assembly as one
7. undo the 10 (IIRC) or so bolts holding the spindle to the axle
8. at this point, the axles can be pulled and the diff is ready to come out
9. if you want to go further, and rebuild the front axle, pull the steering arm off the knuckle. these cone washers can be a btich, two tricks will help 1. hammer a brass punch against the 4 studs holding the the steering arm to the knuckle 2) hammer the middle of the steering arm to vibrate the cone washers out
10. undo the 8(?) bolts holding the felt grease seals in place on the inboard side of the knuckle
11. repeat steering arm procedure for the cap on the bottom that holds the trunion bearing in place, once these are off, the knuckle will also separate, pull it
12. use a claw hammer to pull out the old axle seals
13. you're done the dissassembly, so clean everything up gasoline (cheaper, just as good), paint it black if you want and put it back together just like it came apart

rokblok

iTrader: (1)

I believe the spindle nuts are 54mm. And just get a knuckle service kit from Wabbit. Knuckle sammitch I believe? Has all you will need. The knuckle seal is actually rubber, underneath the felt dust seal. The axle seal sits just inside diff tube, past the knuckle. Easy job, you can do it. Remember to keep the shims under the steering arm(upper trunnion bearing) and the shims under the lower bearing cap, in order and separate. Don't mix and match tops and bottoms. They will fit either top or bottom, but it can change the knuckle preload. FSM is very helpful here...

BigBluePile

iTrader: (3)

I did a LC axle and it was easier than I thought. Can't wait to tear apart my SA for my sas.