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Old 08-05-2009, 10:58 AM   #1
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Headgasket Shim

I just repulled the head on my 84 22r. Yes I said repulled. Could'nt get it to time right. Had water in #4 cylinder, probably my fault. I had the head shaved considerably and went back with just a stock gasket. I now believe that I need a shim to compensate for the material that was removed from the head. Do I use the shim in combination with a stock gasket or just the shim gasket?
Thanks in advance,
aalan
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:18 AM   #2
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I just did a .010 shim and here is the correct way to do it

Put down a coat of ULTRA COPPER gasket sealer , make it even and completely over the metal be sure not to cover any of the passage's
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Drop the COPPER HEAD SHIM on top of the ULTRA COPPER sealer
Click the image to open in full size.

Put your head gasket on and tighten as required by the FSM
Click the image to open in full size.
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1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed
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5.29's
35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S
Dick cepek DC 1's

88 stock 4runner
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:32 AM   #3
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Shim shimimey shim shim sher re....ha ha ha ha ha!!! That was funny...

To be honestly I didn't think that you wanted to use RTV on the heads. I suppose the copper has different properties and used as you did it'd work alright. I never used a shim on the head nor did I know they existed.

Great info to know, and knowing is half the battle.

Thanks OlHarley.
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Old 08-05-2009, 11:45 AM   #4
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Quote:
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Shim shimimey shim shim sher re....ha ha ha ha ha!!! That was funny...

To be honestly I didn't think that you wanted to use RTV on the heads. I suppose the copper has different properties and used as you did it'd work alright. I never used a shim on the head nor did I know they existed.

Great info to know, and knowing is half the battle.

Thanks OlHarley.
Not to sound like an asshat but if you think about it and reread the only place that got any sealer was the deck of the block nothing on the head or head gasket and that was to hold the shim in place.

And you are more then welcome for the info anytime I can help I will if possible.
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1990 4 runner 5 Speed
Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear
Aussie Locker front
5.29's Front And Rear
35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels
Super Charged 3.4 on the way

1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed
4" front 5"rear
5.29's
35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S
Dick cepek DC 1's

88 stock 4runner
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Old 08-05-2009, 12:01 PM   #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by olharleyman View Post
Not to sound like an asshat but if you think about it and reread the only place that got any sealer was the deck of the block nothing on the head or head gasket and that was to hold the shim in place.

And you are more then welcome for the info anytime I can help I will if possible.
No your not, all good. I realize where you have the thin layer of goop and know why it's there. I just never would of though to use it, I didn't think you wanted goop in there. Everyday we learn something or teach someone is a day not wasted.

I'll tell you a little secret as long as you don't tell anyone . Years ago I did a head gasket on my Bronco 300 and I used the same goop. I think it went in places it should not have. I was young and dumb at the time and well I had to have it rebuilt shortly there after. Shhhhh I know better now.
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Old 08-05-2009, 01:14 PM   #6
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Thanks olharleyman.
I'm like Lumpy, I would have never thought of using any sealant. But that's why I'm here, to learn. So, you've done this successufully in the past, I'm presuming?
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Old 08-05-2009, 01:59 PM   #7
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No first time doing this but the machinist I got the block work and shim from told me to put a thin layer down before the shim and then put the head gasket on as normal.

Now maybe he forgot it has centering pins on both ends I don't know but it is only on the deck of the block so I don't think there is any harm in it I guess only time will tell.
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1990 4 runner 5 Speed
Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear
Aussie Locker front
5.29's Front And Rear
35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels
Super Charged 3.4 on the way

1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed
4" front 5"rear
5.29's
35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S
Dick cepek DC 1's

88 stock 4runner
3.0 auto
for now



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Old 08-05-2009, 02:11 PM   #8
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Thanks for your honest reply. Looks like you are doing a beautiful job on yours.
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Old 08-05-2009, 02:26 PM   #9
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Thanks for your honest reply. Looks like you are doing a beautiful job on yours.
Thanks it was until yesterday when I found out the injectors I had rebuilt where the wrong set and I had to tear the manifold off and send the correct ones to Witch Hunter today so I am now stalled out for the next few days SUCKS
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1990 4 runner 5 Speed
Pro Comp Stage II 4" Lift 6" coils rear
Aussie Locker front
5.29's Front And Rear
35 x 12.5 x 15 MT's Micky Thompson Classic II Wheels
Super Charged 3.4 on the way

1993 SAS 4runner 22re 5 speed
4" front 5"rear
5.29's
35 x 12.5 BFG KM'S
Dick cepek DC 1's

88 stock 4runner
3.0 auto
for now



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Old 08-07-2009, 04:37 AM   #10
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Talking

Well, I finally got my 84 4runner back running yesterday. I still need to do some minor tweaking, but at least it's running again. There are alot of people out there that don't know that these shims exist. And the few that do most don't know how to apply them. The shim is used to compensate in thickness, for material that was removed when the head is shaved. I never would have believed that it would make as much difference as it did with mine. Without the shim the timing will retard and it will increase the compression ratio. I didn't have any idea how much was removed from mine other than alot. So, I went back with a standard .020 shim. Some have said that they come in different thicknesses, but this was the only size that I could find anywhere. I really needed a thicker shim though. The instructions from Fel-Pro say to apply a layer of spray on sealer to the block side of the gasket. Nothing on the head side. Then use a standard head gasket on top of that. Then torque to FSM. I didn't use a spray on sealer but I went with the Ultra-Copper that Olharleyman suggested. Although I applied it to the shim instead of the block. Since my motor was in the vehicle it was just easier to do it that way. My suggestion is for anyone rebuilding one of these 22R/RE motors to always use a shim to compensate for removed material from the head. I hope that this can help someone and save you alot of time and heartache wondering why water is pouring on the ground or you just can't get the timing set exactly right. Well now you know why.
aalan

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Old 08-07-2009, 05:03 AM   #11
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Sweet good deal man!!! I'm glad you got her going!!!
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:34 PM   #12
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does anyone kinow where I can get a thicker shim or gasket? I have a friend redoing his. Can you just double the Shim gasket?
Thanks
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Old 08-14-2009, 04:34 PM
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