staticx54621

the people got my 1985 22r and it will not pass smog. the people at the smog shop said that my egr valve is non functional but i just forked over 200 to get a new one. all the hose leading to and away from the valve are clear i was thinking maybe a bad o2 sensor and i have'nt tested my catalac converter > i just need to get her on the road again is the a good write up someone could lead me to. Because all the ones i found were to block off the whole system. this site has saved me before so any help to get my truck on the road would be great thanks

Jay351

Well if they replaced the EGR, then I dont think that would be the problem.

Tell us... Did you check for any codes in the computer?

How old is the o2 sensor?
How old is the cat?

What area did you fail in the smog test?

staticx54621

im not sure how old the o2 senser is but the cat has never been replaced.the two things i failed were my timing was set too high (taken care of) and my egr valve was nonfunctional

Jay351

No I ment what parts of the smog did you fail I.E HC, No2..etc..

If there is a certain element that the truck failed, then we can track down the problem.

If you want you can pull the cat out to check it. It will probibly be a total pain to get out though. If you can get it out, check the little screens inside it. It should be clear but not punched out.

If the o2 sensor is older then say 80k then its time to change it.

User_name

I have the same excact problem. Except I have a 92 4runner 3.0v6. I can't Pass emmisions, and I need to get a tag.
I went to 2 diffrent shops to get codes. Both of which say the scanner only tells them its EGR system fail...
They told me to go emmision test again even though its already failed twice. I was thinking it could be the cat since it failed by a few hundrend in NO2.
My question is where should I start? Replacing the cat won't affect the egr code or will it? On top of that as I was sitting idleing getting ready for emmissions truck just shut off and wouldn't fire again which I believe is either the coil or ignitor? Any suggestions where I should start replacing parts is appricated. The truck has 231k 60 on rebuilt motor..

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

To clarify, is this a 22R (carbureted) engine or a 22RE (electronic fuel injection) engine?

User_name

Anyone?

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

EGR controls/reduces NOx. Get that working first. Other tricks to reduce NOx are to retard timing and run higher octane gas. Make sure EGR passages are wide open, no deposits and all vacuum lines are connected and working.

scope103

4Crawler has it right. If you failed on NOx, it is most likely a problem in the EGR system. The cat has only a small effect on NOx. And given that you have an EGR code ...

The output of the EGR eventually goes into the plenum, so that it injects exhaust gas into the air stream (which reduces combustion temperature, reducing NOx formation). You'll need to follow that all the way into the plenum. It is very likely that the passage is clogged with crap, which will cause you to fail an NOx test, even if the EGR valve is working.

But I don't believe that will set a code. So you need to check your vacuum routing to the EGR to make sure it is hooked up. There should be a sticker on the inside of the hood giving you the routing.

yotaman8819

i have a 95 4runner 3.0 v6 and my check engine light is on and it reads the code for the egr my truck runs fine but i want that light to go off and id like to fix the problem ive tried clearing the codes but it always comes back on in a day or two

4Crawler

iTrader: (3)

On the later model engines, the EGR valve has a temp sensor in it and the engine computer turns the EGR valve on and off via a vacuum switching valve. The logic in the ECU is that after some many seconds of turning on the EGR valve, the temp sensor should read above a set high temperature. This tells the ECU that the hot exhaust gas is flowing through the valve. If that sensor is dead or perhaps caked with carbon deposits, then it'll not read properly and that causes the ECU to set the trouble code.

Test the sender per the FSM test procedure, if OK, try cleaning and if that fails, replace the EGR.

staticx54621

i have a 22r carbureted and no codes

Yellowtruck

I have had this same exact prob for a over a year now on my '91 P/U. I pulled out my entire EGR and cleaned it out. I cleaned the sensor several times. I even pulled out the long tube that slides into the pellum and cleaned it out. Still got code 71. I didn't feel up to paying 2-300$$ to "hopefully" fix this problem so....and friend and myself tried what we heard of here and removed the entire EGR. We fab'd two aluminum plates to block it off and plugged the vac lines. I put a 10 ohm resistor in the sensor wire then pulled my EFI fuse to reset my code. Problem solved. Truck runs better, I feel more HP and hopefully my mileage improves. Note: I don't have to pass a smog test here. Not sure about your area.
Give it a try. If you don't like the results, you can always put it back on.

Victor

I had the Code 71. I put a 10k resistor (about 20 cents) in the connector for the temp sensor. This sends the signal to the computer that everything is ok. Notice that I did not disable the EGR - it still works like it is supposed to. Cheap fix instead of replacing a $200 pyrometer.

irish80prf

I took my egr off a while back and made a plate to block off where the tube went in, yesterday I pulled the plate off to seal it up a little better and I notice oil sitting where the egr tube use to be. Is this normal or do I have a problem? The engine runs good and I don't have any pinging or odd noises.

User_name

I solved my problem and sold the truck. Tired of dealing with it plus it cost to much $ on gas..now im looking for a manual 4cyl toy.

82greenbeast

What did the problem end up being? I just went through the same thing with my 82' toy, But the egr wasn't the only problem, was it the vaccum's maybe?

injun

hey can yall (yellowtruck and victor)post pics of what it should look like with egr capped and the resistor installed on a 3vze? im not gettin code 71, i just recently replaced my knock sensor and im having vacuum line issues, truck runs rough and i have lines that i think i might have put back in wrong place. i have looked in the FSM and chilton book but they just are not all that clear. more pics the better thanks

side note--just tested my TPS and it came up bad