parkerst02

OK I'm new to this forum and new to toyota as well. Let's start from the top I bought the truck (1981 toyota 22r 4x4 4 speed) for real cheap because it needed new rings. Well I went to drive it home and blew the motor up. No problem had a motor i was going to put in it already. A 87 22r and there is no E bc its carburated (argued with a guy for bout an hour bout that). Well got it in and going running perfect and messed up I went mudding well it started over heating so i changed water pump and thermostat and I think I got this fixed but started driving and it started missing so I started taking plugs off and the 3rd one it makes no difference when I took it off checked if it had spark to the spark plug and it does (got shocked ALOT) well went to see if a rocker arm or push rod was bent or broke ha learned quick toyota is way different than chevy in the head but no bent rocker arm and there is no push rods. So I'm stuck here and was wondering if there was anybody that might be able to tell me what is going on before I tear the motor apart. Kinda wondering if the timing chain slipped if anyone knows anything any help would be greatly appreciated..

irhunter

I would start with cheap and simple: You've checked the cap, ignition wire, and plug?

parkerst02

yes it has spark and all that just fine

irhunter

I have had "spark" but not enough "juice/spark" to fire. I would swap the plug and wire from #2 and see if that changes anything.

Then, check compression.

parkerst02

Done did the changing spark plug wire and plug still nothing even let it run awhile with out #3 plug wire on to see if it got gas put it on and nothing still dead.. How Could I check for compression I put fuel on top of piston with out putting any spark wire on and it locked motor up or whatever you wanna call it. took plug out and shot it out

irhunter

Yup...putting any substantial amount of liquid in the cylinder is not a good idea...this can cause a so-called hyrdo-lock which can blow out head gaskets, bend rods, and such.

Of course, we have all put a tablespoon, or so, of gas into cylinders without damage.

Anyway, borrow a compression gauge and check the bad cylinder. Places like AutoZone and Advance Auto Parts often have gauges to loan out (for free).

If you have good compression, I would think then would be the time to pop the timing chain cover off and check the timing.

Roy

parkerst02

If it jumps time will it completely deaden a cylinder

parkerst02

Well I have checked compression and timing. Compression is good but a little confused on the timing where is the markers suppose to be and where is the marker on the crankshaft after you get timing cover off

irhunter

You will need a repair manual for the truck. AutoZone has free downloadable repair manuals...theirs might have what you need.

Generally, you turn the motor until it is top-dead-center on the first cylinder. Then, there should be matching alignment marks on the crank and cam pulleys. But, every engine is a little different. Get the manual.

parkerst02

well got the manual and it has not jumped time. So it has compression and hasn't jumped time could it be an intake valve? hung or bent

irhunter

When you rotate the engine by hand with the valve cover off, the valves and valve train all "look" right? However, a valve problem should produce a compression problem.

How about ignition timing? Have you slapped a timing light on her?

SPARKS89

iTrader: (1)

It sounds like the intake valve could be locked up. You wouldn't get fire in that cylinder because air can't get in but it would still pass a compression test, right? I would think you would hear some noise in the valve cover if that was the case. I'm no mechanic...just thinking it through. Let me know what you find.

Jasper 83

If either valve is open you will have zero compression.

What were your numbers from the compression test. If youve got fuel fire air and compression you should have a fully functioning cylinder. From what you told us you have all the ingredients. Somethin is missin though

irhunter

I think you would be able to see the signs of a locked valve (either I or E could be locked closed and you would get a dead cly and good compression) when rotating the engine with the valve cover off.

'83 is right: "From what you told us you have all the ingredients. Somethin is missin though"

I still think the next-best-step is a timing light to make sure the spark is getting there at the right instant.

This reminds me how nice trouble shooting a truck with a carb is. No FI issues to think about.

Jasper 83

Yeah your right about the FI issues. With the carb they either all have fuel or none of them do. I guess a valve could be locked closed but it seems like a rocker arm would be bent or a lobe off the cam gone cuz there isnt any give in the closed position. Only way to tell visually whats goin on up top is to take the valve cover off and spin the motor by hand and see if everything is movin. I hate troubleshooting when i cant put my hands on the truck haha

parkerst02

I don't remember the compression number a friend did it while i was at work. Told me it was good.I got motor completely torn down besides one head bolt is stuck which is keeping me from taking head off and looking at valves myself. When i rotate the crank everythin moves right to my knowledge. I don't think its getting fuel I pulled the plug wire ran it for a while and had no gas on piston. Timing light checked ok thats the first thing I did when it happened. I can't get the intake off because I can't get to one bolt in the middle.

parkerst02

well i finally got the head off and i don't see a single thing wrong. the valves open and close the cylinders have no scratches and they all still have there rings. so this is really starting to get confusing. Atleast I'm learning more about it

Jasper 83

Take some brake cleaner or carb cleaner and spray intothe exhaust ports and intake ports and see if it comes thru the valves on the bottom of the head

irhunter

I would have thought it started to get confusing a while ago.

Well, somewhat common problems with 22r are head gaskets and timing chain/tensioner issues...so, at least when you put this back together you can deal with those. That's the silver lining, I guess.

As far as your actual problem...it still seems like valve or ignition timing is the answer. I can't explain how it is that you've not found the issue by now.

parkerst02

yeah i have carb cleaner sitting on the bottom of the valves to try and get carbon off of them. I'm thinking while i have it completely torn down go ahead get new gasket set (didnt tear any in the process) new timing tensioner and guides and may go new distributor and a weber carb. maybe when i put it all back together it will run fine.