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99 4cyl CEL

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Old 04-22-2009, 03:52 PM
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99 4cyl CEL

hi guys.
well i got the p0300, and p0302. the p0302 was up twice with one pending. no idea what pending means though. it came on going up a steep short grade in 104 degree heat yesterday. it hasnt skipped a beat though. anyhow, i checked the crank bolt (tight) but havnt found anything else. most of the stuff i see relating to these codes is about the 6cyl. it idles kind of rough (but the tach doesnt jump, just feels rougher than i think it should) and when im accelerating from a stop it kind of stalls out then picks back up if im gentle on the gas. if i hammer it, it runs fine. both of those symptoms have been exhibited since i bought the suv. gas gauge stopped working right after too, but im sure its unrelated. any info is appreciated, thanks for the guys...

Last edited by fyrfytrryn; 04-22-2009 at 03:59 PM.
Old 04-22-2009, 05:40 PM
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Ok the same things apply in your case as in the case of the v6.
300 is a random and 302 is specific to cyl.#2.
The questions that need to be asked are type of plugs used
"I am unsure as to whether or not your truck has coils on every plug or half"
I have the 3.4L and there is one coil per two plugs.
The random tells me you may have issues with your injectors!
They probably need cleaned. Seafoam!
the below links will tell you what you need to know about the product.
If you don't already. I do not necessarily say you should use it in the crankcase!

the #2 code may be coil or plug or that specific injector being clogged
or restricted more than the rest!
as said before am unsure about the use of wires but if there is a wire to this cyl this may be an issue.

http://video.google.com/videoplay?do...90865726229173
http://www.seafoamsales.com/motorTuneUp.htm

yotatech wiki great source of info
includes the seafoam links.
https://www.yotatech.com/wiki/index.php/Main_Page

Last edited by eddieleephd; 04-22-2009 at 05:41 PM.
Old 04-22-2009, 06:36 PM
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as far as the plug brand they are NGK-R BKR5EYA's. they are new, less than 3000 and gapped properly. there is a coil pack per 2 plugs. i added a bottle of gumout injector cleaner about 300 miles ago, since then it threw this CEL and the gas gauge stopped reading properly. did i kill it with gumout? ive seafoamed a few vehicles, but not this one. last time i used the stuff it killed the o2. so maybe ill try a can to the tank. will that work, since it will be going 100% to the injectors?

Last edited by fyrfytrryn; 04-22-2009 at 07:23 PM.
Old 04-22-2009, 08:34 PM
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Lightbulb

I have never had a problem with O2 sensors from seafoam.
I can not say that adding it to the gas will cure the problem but
I will say that this is where I would start!
this could completely clear the 300 code issue.

Are the coil packs on Cyls 1&3 with wires going to 2&4?
A bad wire could be the issue with the 302 code.
Remember to use dielectric grease on the wires and plugs!
And antiseize on the plug threads!

I honestly can not and also no one else can give you a definite fix!
This is the process I would take in trying to cur the issues!

Also what plug wires are you running?

I run Ngk and they perform well!

Also what type of air filter do you run? This can effect the
FAR "fuel air ratio" as well and contribute to the misfire.
Recommended would be OEM or good Quality after market dry fabric!
However I do run a K&N drop in and like it alot just not recomended
as much for trails and dusty environments such as the desert!
You can carry a OEM along for trail use if you want to run an oil filter
but oil filters will foul the heated maf if over oiled.
I generally clean and oil run a couple few hundred miles and clean the maf.


Hope this helps you and you get all of the issues taken care of!

PHD

Last edited by eddieleephd; 04-22-2009 at 08:36 PM.
Old 04-23-2009, 07:03 AM
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wires are ran properly. when i got the 4runner, the first thing i did was change all the fluids, plugs and filters. wires are the stockers i think. the dia. is tiny! dielectric grease was used as was anti sieze. i cleaned the plugs and connections with alcohol then blew them out with an air hose. ive done the 5" deckplate mod with the stock filter. we used to use the k&N on out prerun/race vehicles, but we started getting gummed up MAF's and a thin layer of gunk past the filter. we've run paper since. ill try the seafoam later today. thanks for all the help.
Old 04-28-2009, 05:32 PM
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seafoam didnt work. i swapped the coils around today to see if the code follows the coil to a differnt cyl. so if it doesnt follow it and stays at cyl 2, then its the injector right? or the wire/plug?
Old 04-28-2009, 08:59 PM
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that should be the case. "you did run seafoam through the tank Right?"
if the code does move with you may be able to save the coil it
very well could be a poorly seated spring in the drop tube.
Old 04-29-2009, 07:09 AM
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Originally Posted by eddieleephd
that should be the case. "you did run seafoam through the tank Right?"
if the code does move with you may be able to save the coil it
very well could be a poorly seated spring in the drop tube.
yeah i seafoamed the tank.
what spring in what tube?
Old 04-29-2009, 11:43 AM
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Originally Posted by fyrfytrryn
yeah i seafoamed the tank.
what spring in what tube?
I meant the spring in the drop tube from the coil but.
Never mind your in a 4 cyl those coils are on the odd cyl correct?

Last edited by eddieleephd; 04-29-2009 at 11:44 AM.
Old 05-11-2009, 10:01 AM
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so, i swapped the coils. CEL stayed at cyl 2. swapped injectors, CEL stayed at cyl #2. plugs and wires?
Old 05-11-2009, 01:53 PM
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New plugs is the first thing I do and clean the air filter. Other than that it is igniter ECM or head gasket.
Moisture in the cyl. or no signal to fire can cause this as well!

the cam sensor and crank sensor send a signal to the ECM as to where the TDC of each Cyl is then the ECM sends a signal to the Igniter and the injectors.

The igniter gets a signal from the ECM and then delivers a signal to the coil when the coil fires the igniter sends a signal to the Ecm saying that it fired.
"If any part of this does not happen there is a miss fire!"

Check the plug wire for resistance with the ohm meter, Dielectric grease all electrical connections. If there is too much resistance replace the wires!
Check the signal from the igniter to the coil with a multimeter to be sure the wire should be firing.
Replace plugs if needed
Check the signal to the Injectors!

If all this checks out you are looking in to the head gasket and valves. try a compression check. and do a bleed down check this is the order I suggest.

FSM
http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/index.html

Last edited by eddieleephd; 05-11-2009 at 01:56 PM.
Old 05-11-2009, 01:59 PM
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Usually I find it to be a spark problem however it could be a signal problem to the fuel injectors so make sure to check those as well if you do not have a multimeter switch the injectors they are plugged in to
and see if it moves then
Old 05-11-2009, 02:04 PM
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In all of this have you reset the computer?
Old 05-11-2009, 04:47 PM
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i got new plugs and wires. it idles smoother and doesnt have the hesitation off idle. i asked the tech at toyota if the numbers after sumitomo are the manufactured date. he said yes. m wires were stock after 11 years and 211,000. i have a feeling that was it, haaaa. ill report back if the CEL stays off. thanks!
Old 06-08-2009, 08:50 AM
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550+miles and no CEL or hesitation. thanks yota tech!
Old 08-12-2009, 04:41 PM
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OH NO! its back. threw P300 and P302. random misfire and cyl #2 misfire. new plugs/wires, swapped packs, swapped injectors. stays at cyl. #2. it does have a cracked exhaust manifold. would that trigger a CEL on cyl #2? thanks guys!
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