Mud_Bug87

1 have an 87 toyota pickup. EFI. Just replaced fuel pump this past weekend.
And the fuel filter as well as distributor cap, plugs, and wires. About 2 weeks ago. Whenever I start it up. It idles perfectly fine but once I accelerate it starts to stutter an almost bogg down. It doesn't die.
But you can feel it shake once I get into 5th gear. It's never done this before and I can't think of what it could be. Any comments on possibilities or similar scenarios an how you fixed it would be helpful.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Did this happen before you replaced everything? Did you replace everything and it ran fine for 2 weeks then started acting up? Or did you replace everything and it has done this since? Have you checked the check engine light (CEL) by jumping the diagnostic port. Usually under the hood. And see if the CEL light is showing any codes. It can have stored codes and not show on the dash during normal operation.

Is it a sputter like too much fuel? Is it a bad exhaust leak? Just asking. This can have a dramatic impact on performance. Have you put a timing light on it? What brand plugs/wires/components in general did you use. These motors can be fussy at times. It rare but they can be fussy. Good luck. Hope this helps.

Mud_Bug87

It happened after. Fuel pump went out. So I replaced it. I use nkg plugs. I don't remember the name of the wires but I know that they weren't Bosch. I haven't messed with the check engine light. I personally don't know how to jump it to where I can get te codes an look them up. I noticed yesterday afternoon when I was checking over everything. One of my stock bolts for the exhaust manifold was missing. After I changed the gasket on it I made sure that they bolts for torqued to the correct setting. Could that cause it to sputter. An I don't think that it's from getting too much fuel. It's not flooding the engine. Nor is it running rich. I have also replaced the distributor cap and rotor an it was running fine.
Pretty much 2 weeks ago it stopped running I tried the jump for the fuel pump. An nothing happened so I even checked the relay to reassure I was correct. The fuel pump was out. So I replaced it.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

Ok. Yes the exhaust can cause it. These motors live and die on proper back pressure. Also your diagnostic port for the CEL Is either in a little box on the side of your fuse panel or a little round tube behind your air filter. Not sure on your year truck. If its attached to the use block it probably looks like this. Scroll down till you find it. Hope this helps

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/toyot...port-help.html

Mud_Bug87

Ok. I greatly appreciate it. And It's attached to the fuse box. But all the parts house around where I'm at can't read it.
ima have to wait til I get home in order to get it checked out.
As soon as I get a bolt for it. I'll let u know if it helped out or not.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

What you do is put a jumper wire (paper clip) on t1 and e1 I believe. Check the link to make sure or what ports to jump. Then go back in the cab and count the flashes on the light. I works something like this. It will blink twice pause for a 1/2 second then blink 4 times pause for a few seconds then do it again. By blinking twice then 4 times that is showing a code 24(totally random bty) then if there are any other codes it will to the same for them after a brief pause. Till it repeats the codes. Then you look them up and get started. Good luck

Mud_Bug87

Update on the yota.
Got. Bolt for the exhaust manifold. But it's still bogging down.
Found what the codes are.
4,6,11,12.
Would it be possible that the igniter is causing it to run funny ?
Cuz it seems that only when I put it in 5th gear an occasionally 4th is when it wants to run weird.
It also has slight vibration when I put it into 5th gear but not fourth.

thefishguy77

iTrader: (1)

What do 4,6,11,12 codes tell you is wrong with it. Randomly changing parts when you have trouble codes is like using a bandaid to patch a sinking ship. The odds of you getting lucky are unbelievably small. Address the codes and if/when they are all fixed and its still not right. Then we start to guess.

Also. When you put her back together did you jump the diagnostic port (the one for codes) before you set your timing? If not that part of your problem. When you put that wire in you should hear the motor idle down. That bypasses the computer and lets you time it. Then the computer does what it needs to. If you don't do that the computer will fight you and win the whole time your messing with your timing. Just more food for thought. Good luck