bmw808

I am new to trucks this is my first vehicle, a 82 Toyota pick up 22r engine was swapped out with an 85 22r engine.

So my issue is when I take my truck for a normal drive anywhere I only can drive for 15 mins in town and on highways. I have switched: water pump, thermostat, and changed fluid and still nothing. There is an electric fan. Also when the previous owner switched the engines, it appears he did not connect the water heater back up, I don't know if this could be the issue or something else. Oil does look clean doesn't appear to be a blow head.

I am really stuck with this overheating, the engine seems strong and I would love to fix this truck! Please Help!!!!!

Mahalo

wyoming9

iTrader: (1)

You could have air bubbles in the cooling system.

The radiator could just be blocked from old age.

The heater core not being hooked up should not make it over heat .

Bad thermostat out of the box.

Just what symptoms is the overheating causing ??

The sending unit ( Temperature gauge ) if not matched to the gauge might be giving a false reading. I don`t know if 82 and 85 are the same .

bmw808

When I got the truck there was no thermostat in it and i still had experiences with overheating. I believe the sensor is correct because when it goes into the red there is overflow and it boiled when I had normal water in the engine. The radiator seems really clean on the outside but inside there is some brown and a little build up. I am not sure if this guy hooked up the cooling system wrong, there is only the in hose and the out hose hooked up to the radiator.

osv

the heater hoses are hooked up at the firewall, but i suppose that he could hook a hose up at the engine, bypassing that.

if i recall right, on the 22re there are a couple of metal tubes on the exhaust side of the engine, that hook up the hoses to the heater, so that is probably where the bypass is: https://www.google.com/search?newwin...er+core+bypass

i wouldn't think that a heater bypass could cause overheating, if it's hooked up right?

bmw808

So I just took off the top of the engine and also replaced the oil to see if it was milky or had any water, and found out there was none.

Although I am confused because under the top I did find some milky oil
I took off the other black pan thing with all the bolts on there and found this



Here is what was under it. Only had minimum milk

bmw808

Here is the inside of the engine.



Also I found a pipe that had been crimped and welded off. I believe it was for the water heater.



Here is what happened to the pipes that go to the water heater through the fire wall.

kawazx636

iTrader: (3)

Don't sweat the "milky" oil cap - typically that is just evaporated moisture that rises to the highest point of the engine (the oil cap) and condenses. It mixes with a little oil and gives you some "milk." I have had that happen on my Tundra for years (and over 50,000 miles) now and it hasn't causes me any problems.

It is also pretty much impossible to hook up the cooling hoses wrong on these trucks - the top/passenger side radiator hose goes to the thermostat housing and the lower/driver side radiator hose goes to the water pump (by way of the hardline around the driver side engine mount). So unless you have a radiator hose randomly running across the engine to the wrong side then you should be ok on the routing. The "extra" stuff like the heater core, emissions, etc won't matter. You could have them complete blocked off or routed completely backwards and the engine is still going to circulate coolant through the block.

You said that there was an engine swap? Was the wiring harness, gauges and/or temperature sender swapped? The reason I ask is because the gauge and sender may not be calibrated to the same resistance. For example, here are the resistance specs for a 1983 Toyota sending unit/gauge (1982 should be the same):
122* - 154 ohms
176* - 52 ohms
212* - 27.5 ohms
248* - 16 ohms

So say you left the 1985 sending unit in the engine and are using it with a 1982 gauge and the 1985 sending unit is calibrated to send 16 ohms at 180* then since is isn't calibrated the same as your gauge you will get a reading of 248* on the gauge.

The reason I'm telling you this is because based on the pictures above, it doesn't look like the engine was ever extremely hot. Unless you know for certain that it was truly over heating, I would try to get a aftermarket or a diagnostic temperature gauge to verify the actual temperature to rule out any possible issues with the factory temperature gauge.