Cody1992Davis

Its been awhile since i have posted anything about my truck i kinda put it off for awhile but got tired of watching it set. I have an 89 pickup 4x4 with an automatic transmission. Im wanting to put some 33s or 35s on it but i know ima have to life it. Im wondering if a 3 inch body lift would be a great idea for 33s. Now another thing all of the body kits i have seen are all for a manual tranny. Mines an automatic can someone tell me if its going to matter or not? Please im getting real frustrated and want my truck looking good for this summer. Any information will help

toyota4x4907

I cleared 33"s on my '95 4Runner with a 2" bodylift. Didnt rub anywhere. For an auto, you need to extend the shift linkages. I'm surprised. It seems like most body lifts come with auto linkage extenders.

91 4Runner

The shifter extension can be bought from 4Crawler for the Auto. I myself would go with BJ spacers and extended shackles or ZUK mod for the rear (a more versatile lift IMO) However a body lift will accomplish the same tire clearance.

The body lift can be purchase there as well as rad relocation brackets, bumper brackets etc. BJ spacers/shackles as well...

http://www.4crawler.com/

93Xtra-Cab

^This. The cost of parts and the alignment afterwards will be a little more than a body lift, but the benefits are so much greater. You only need a 1.5" lift to clear 33s.

IMO, if you want your truck looking good for the summer a body lift is not the way to go. Usually with a body lift, especially the 3" body lifts, the frame will hang down and there's a big ugly gap between the body and frame. But, again, it's my opinion.

toyota4x4907

The frame can be covered by rock sliders or nerf bars. The gap can be covered by anything waterproof. I used an old rubber-backed rug and faced the rug part inward. Ghetto, but no one could tell unless they pealed it back.

Cody1992Davis

Ok i have looked at 4crawler.com and it has a pretty decent kit. Now another thing. Say i wanted to get 2 more inches maybe. I know i can get 2 inch drop blocks to go in the rear for my axle but the from has a strut and a arms and im not sure how id lift the front maybe torsion bar crank for the extra 2 inches?

91 4Runner

If you are going with the body lift and want more. then the BJ spacers for the front and shackles, Zuk mod for the rear. Blocks cause axle wrap and have tendency to denigrate and fail. Like the BJ spacers, cranking the torsion bars will also require an alignment.

IMO 4 to 5" of lift is too much for 33's.

91 4Runner

highonpottery

iTrader: (1)

I'm going to toss another train of thought out there since it's the route i favored more on my rig. Lots of times people want to up tire size and lift the rig, but what they don't always consider is the cost of wheels to fit the tires and gearing to be able to move those tires. To me, those are very important things to consider especially if you're working with budget restrictions. Also, tire height and rig height always take a back seat to traction and lower gearing -- so with that said, keeping it low with good tires, lower gears, and/or traction devices will always outperform the tippy sky-high rig sitting on 35s with stock gears and open differentials. You won't be looking cool when you can't make it up the same obstacle a "sleeper rig" can make it up

wheels -- i would first decide what width of 33 you want. there are 33x10.5s (limited options) and 33x12.5s (more options). Once you decide this, you will know whether or not you will need to buy different width/offset wheels to even install the tires. Then you will also know whether or not you need to lift the vehicle at all. A 10.5" tread width technically does not need lift because they can fit on stock wheels, which keep the tread from contacting your fender during articulation. A 12.5" tire is more readily available on tire racks and is the favored size from basically every 33" tire manufacturer - but the downside is they don't really fit on stock wheels and because of width they will hit the fender in articulation unless you have some sort of lift.

gearing - you're looking at putting tires on your rig that are approx. 15+% larger diameter and 50+% heavier AND you have an automatic trans. if you have stock 31s, it's possible you have 4.88 gears otherwise you may have 4.56 gears. To run 33+ tires you will appreciate the addition of lower gearing - like 5.29s since you have the auto. gearing isn't cheap, so think about it. also to think about -- while you have diffs open/removed, wouldn't it be smart to install some sort of traction device "while you're in there"?

good luck!

daved5150

iTrader: (1)

x2! Amen brother.

Another good thread to read and offer great advice along the line of what highonpottery is saying is here.

Red Wagon

My previous owner threw in a 3" body lift to clear 33's and I've been waiting to get rid of it for 2 years.

It's finally going soon. You do not need a 3" body lift for 33" tires. I wouldn't do it. Pottery above gave you great advice.

Get some BJ spacers and new springs.

Also, with a 3" body lift you need to move the gear stick A LOT. I drove a stock 4Runner a few months ago and it felt like a short throw.


My next build build phase will still have 35" tires with the ability to run 37"s and I will have at most 1" of body lift or none at all if I can swing it.