22re Rebuild: Are these cam lobes shot + other related questions
07-19-2009, 06:16 PM
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22re Rebuild: Are these cam lobes shot + other related questions
Rebuilding my 89 pickup's 22re that had 200k miles on it, noticed a flat side on all of the cam lobes. Have heard that these motors must be broken in with zinc additive, otherwise this occurs. I think I'm going to replace the camshaft anyway since the journals measured below the minimum allowable dia + the rear journal had a 6/10ths taper on it.
It was hard to capture the profile with the camera, it's not really fully shown in this one how flat it is, but it is definitely flat on one side. I also took a picture to show the wear pattern if that helps.
FWIW, other things that are proving worn:
All cyl bores measured on the top of the range or slightly above (but within max wear limits) for their respective grades, however taper and out of round conditions for all cyls were way beyond spec.
==> My thought is to get the block bored .020 over and buy new pistons. Any other recommendations? I am planning on sourcing pistons from Ted @ engnbldr.com. Should I go with forged pistons? I have some pie in the sky idea that a few years from now I want to FI this motor.
Oil pump gear to enclosure and gear to crescent clearances are at or beyond maximum allowable gap per spec.
==> Replace oil pump
Other rebuild related questions:
A) What is the correct procedure for determining required main and rod bearing sizes? Should I buy bearings based on the journal and rod/main cap grades and measure for oil clearance then return + buy different sized bearings if needed? Or is there a way I can measure my parts to determine the required bearing size (oversize vs std) before ordering?
B) Considering the wear on my cam lobes, are any other valve train components very likely to be buggered and require replacing also? Rockers?
C) Are there any popular packages for street vehicle use? Considering the parts I am already needing to replace (and also considering that most of what I've measured thus far has been out of spec), should I be seriously looking at getting a head package with all new bits, porting, new rods +wristpins to go with the pistons, total seal gapless rings, new headers/exhaust etc etc? Or can I still keep this under $1k... I guess what I'm asking is, how often are these motors in a state of requiring wholesale parts replacement upon rebuild at 200k miles? I'm starting to wonder if mine does... Will know more when i get a chance to measure up the remaining parts (waiting for temps to get down to 70degF in the garage tonight).
Lastly, this must be a CA smog legal build, please no suggestions that would make it impossible for me to get smogged
It was hard to capture the profile with the camera, it's not really fully shown in this one how flat it is, but it is definitely flat on one side. I also took a picture to show the wear pattern if that helps.
FWIW, other things that are proving worn:
All cyl bores measured on the top of the range or slightly above (but within max wear limits) for their respective grades, however taper and out of round conditions for all cyls were way beyond spec.
==> My thought is to get the block bored .020 over and buy new pistons. Any other recommendations? I am planning on sourcing pistons from Ted @ engnbldr.com. Should I go with forged pistons? I have some pie in the sky idea that a few years from now I want to FI this motor.
Oil pump gear to enclosure and gear to crescent clearances are at or beyond maximum allowable gap per spec.
==> Replace oil pump
Other rebuild related questions:
A) What is the correct procedure for determining required main and rod bearing sizes? Should I buy bearings based on the journal and rod/main cap grades and measure for oil clearance then return + buy different sized bearings if needed? Or is there a way I can measure my parts to determine the required bearing size (oversize vs std) before ordering?
B) Considering the wear on my cam lobes, are any other valve train components very likely to be buggered and require replacing also? Rockers?
C) Are there any popular packages for street vehicle use? Considering the parts I am already needing to replace (and also considering that most of what I've measured thus far has been out of spec), should I be seriously looking at getting a head package with all new bits, porting, new rods +wristpins to go with the pistons, total seal gapless rings, new headers/exhaust etc etc? Or can I still keep this under $1k... I guess what I'm asking is, how often are these motors in a state of requiring wholesale parts replacement upon rebuild at 200k miles? I'm starting to wonder if mine does... Will know more when i get a chance to measure up the remaining parts (waiting for temps to get down to 70degF in the garage tonight).
Lastly, this must be a CA smog legal build, please no suggestions that would make it impossible for me to get smogged
07-19-2009, 07:19 PM
#2
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Go with the engnbldr head with oversized valves , as for the rest of the rebuild kit shy of new head bolts and a water pump engnbldrs comes with just about everything needed to rebuild the motor.
I just got the same kit from him and can't recommend him enough great service very willing to help you out in a jam and I believe before I scored a deal on my L.C Engineering head I was looking at $849 shipped to my door for the master rebuild kit with 268 cam and his brand new head with oversized valves , hell he was even going to install the cam before shipping it not a big deal but still a nice little extra from him.
Here's what's inside a master lit although I traded the crank and rod bearings because I bought a new crank kit with them for the new head bolts and water pump
I just got the same kit from him and can't recommend him enough great service very willing to help you out in a jam and I believe before I scored a deal on my L.C Engineering head I was looking at $849 shipped to my door for the master rebuild kit with 268 cam and his brand new head with oversized valves , hell he was even going to install the cam before shipping it not a big deal but still a nice little extra from him.
Here's what's inside a master lit although I traded the crank and rod bearings because I bought a new crank kit with them for the new head bolts and water pump
Last edited by olharleyman; 07-19-2009 at 07:23 PM.
07-20-2009, 08:33 AM
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You are gonna have to plasti gauge the crank and rods to find out what size bearings you will need and get it align bored while you have it at the shop getting the cylinders done and the machinist should be able to tell you what your looking at bearing wise.
07-20-2009, 04:20 PM
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Seems to make sense in my brain...
07-20-2009, 04:38 PM
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I have a bore gauge and mics, can I not simply measure the journals, calibrate the bore gauge on the measurement then measure the block+caps torqued down without bearings to show me total clearance for which I could div by 2 and subtract the required oil clearance to find the correct bearing thickness?
Seems to make sense in my brain...
Seems to make sense in my brain...
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