1987 Toyota SR5 EFI with blown HG?
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1987 Toyota SR5 EFI with blown HG?
Okay, I just wanted a quick opinion on a truck that I am looking at buying right now. I've owned 3 1st gen runners before, but it's been awhile since i've had a rig and just wanted an opinion on a truck that's come to my attention. Okay its a 1987 SR5 EFI with a 22RE, story checks out that current owner bought it from Original owner at 114k...now has 135k two years later with what owner thinks is blown HG....he says temp gauge went up and he pulled over to find steam pouring out everywhere. He came back with a trailer and it's now being sold non-smogged. it's run to straight to pipe now, but theres a brand new muffler with hangers. I've checked it out and there is a little bit of milk in the oil, but not a whole lot, no signs of damage to the radiator, and no real rust issues with the Chassis....the truck was professionally lifted 10k miles ago, still 20k on the warranty, it's lifted 5 up front, six in the rear with shackles, leafs, and shocks as well as a steel braided brake line and new two stage clutch and flywheel...interior is in great shape, exterior is decent with some minor body damage from wheeling. basically he is looking to settle for low twos, I'm tempted to pull the trigger and just get the head over to the machine shop and see, at worst there are 22res for sale for 500-600 all the time, it's a great looking rig, but I did read through the entire thread that says that suspension, and lifts, are the least important thing....and this has open diffs, still IFS, and original gearing, and bald 32s.
Tear into it!
Tear into it!
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We kind of settled at around 2400, though I think he may take a little less...he originally wanted 2900, but he's not gonna get it. I lot of people probably think that's still too much, but then a lot of people don't really know how much in demand good old yotas are.
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Okay so I had a professional mechanic look at the rig and here is what he had to say about it....
the thermostat broke, and the upper radiator hose is hot as hell, the lower radiator hose leaks (could this be what caused the head gasket to blow?)...thinks the water pump is still good though.
block test inconclusive, no way to know if it's a head problem until in there
the lower ball joints and pitman arm are shot...lifted a little too high probably on the suspension
front brakes at 10% on pads, rotors still good, back brakes are okay
rear main seal on engine is leaking, problem is it's leaking onto new clutch which rattles...
exhaust maniforld gasket is leaking, which will need to be replaced, i guess i'll also need a pipe to run the length of the truck to the back bumper cause Cali has pretty strict no mod regs on exhaust.
So what do you all think? is it still doable? I think I can take on the coolant system and the head and possibly even the rear seal...but the ball joints and pitman arm are gonna have to be done by a shop...if I did it I would consider lower it back down to like 2-3 inches with 33s and locking the diffs...maybe look for a solid front axle while it's up there.
or should i just keep looking for a truck that runs and is smogged and start fresh?
the thermostat broke, and the upper radiator hose is hot as hell, the lower radiator hose leaks (could this be what caused the head gasket to blow?)...thinks the water pump is still good though.
block test inconclusive, no way to know if it's a head problem until in there
the lower ball joints and pitman arm are shot...lifted a little too high probably on the suspension
front brakes at 10% on pads, rotors still good, back brakes are okay
rear main seal on engine is leaking, problem is it's leaking onto new clutch which rattles...
exhaust maniforld gasket is leaking, which will need to be replaced, i guess i'll also need a pipe to run the length of the truck to the back bumper cause Cali has pretty strict no mod regs on exhaust.
So what do you all think? is it still doable? I think I can take on the coolant system and the head and possibly even the rear seal...but the ball joints and pitman arm are gonna have to be done by a shop...if I did it I would consider lower it back down to like 2-3 inches with 33s and locking the diffs...maybe look for a solid front axle while it's up there.
or should i just keep looking for a truck that runs and is smogged and start fresh?
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It's the seller's responsibility to smog the car before selling it to you - don't take that burden on yourself as the buyer....especially if he's looking to get over $2,000 out of you.
Sounds like a lot of work ($$), even if you do it yourself.
I don't know what you're comfortable paying for a truck that's lifted and has zero problems, but you're probably going to be $4000+ into it when said and done (assuming the worst for the engine).
I got my 87 for $1200 with 200K on the clock 9 years ago. All it needed was tires and paint - rest was fine (until it broke much later...) - but you get the idea - sounds like a LOT of money and work to come. If it were $500, I'd say get it. But for $2000+ you can get a truck that runs well and is smogged....
Good luck!
Sounds like a lot of work ($$), even if you do it yourself.
I don't know what you're comfortable paying for a truck that's lifted and has zero problems, but you're probably going to be $4000+ into it when said and done (assuming the worst for the engine).
I got my 87 for $1200 with 200K on the clock 9 years ago. All it needed was tires and paint - rest was fine (until it broke much later...) - but you get the idea - sounds like a LOT of money and work to come. If it were $500, I'd say get it. But for $2000+ you can get a truck that runs well and is smogged....
Good luck!
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I've emailed the seller to tell him I won't be taking the car off his hands...
Gonna hold out for an old yota pick up that hasn't been lifted with no concern for what it does to the drivetrain...then I can put a rear locker on, lift in two inches, swap in aftermarket leafs, put 33s on it, and do an SAS (unless I get an 85 or older)!!!
Thanks for your responses guys.
Gonna hold out for an old yota pick up that hasn't been lifted with no concern for what it does to the drivetrain...then I can put a rear locker on, lift in two inches, swap in aftermarket leafs, put 33s on it, and do an SAS (unless I get an 85 or older)!!!
Thanks for your responses guys.
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#9
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I woulda bought it if the body is straight.
Like said before, a new engine is like 700 bucks.
And you would need a clutch, balljoints, and pitman arm bushings lol.
Like said before, a new engine is like 700 bucks.
And you would need a clutch, balljoints, and pitman arm bushings lol.
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