Spectre

:pat:

r0cky

bulldog-yota

Doug and 4route,
Thanx for the pics, great help, also thanx for the tool advice.

Biff,
I bought mine at Mac's Springs . I notice that you got hold of Mike on the board to order, good for you. I send you a PM.

Mike,
Sorry I missed you.

Hopefully 4route will put some clean pictures up next time of her own Runner, not Doug's dirty ones I will try to get lots of pics when I do mine in a couple of weeks, hopefully clean ones. Now of to get lots of tools.

r0cky

what're "shock boots" for?

bulldog-yota

I guess to replace the current ones, according to the instructions?? How many did you get 2 or 4?

r0cky

i don't think my revtek kit comes with any.

when are you supposed to get yours? mine is estimated to arrive on wednesday. i have all my tools ready ... save for the impact wrench which i still need to purchase...

bulldog-yota

I am expecting mine next week, will see what is in it. Still need to get some tools which I will order from sears and pick up next week.

Seems like you will beat me to the lift :cry: I will probably do mine in early April. I am hoping to get the shop manual of eBay, dont bid against me

02Runner

4Route: Glad you posted those pics, thank you. I think I took them on a Thursday night. Thats why my truck is so dirty. I actually detail my truck every Sunday morning only to bring it to work (rock quarry) less than 24 hrs later and trash it. The last time I posted a clean pic, I was told my truck was too clean!

Keisur: The reason in removing the tie rod end is creating a little more space for working around the XREAS lines. Its a pain in the arse to get that strut assembly out and into a position thats workable for using the spring compressors. Thats because the lower assembly must stay close to the mounts. Removing the T.R.E. gives just enough movement to get in there. It probably could be done without it, but I wouldn't want to do it! I guess a small two pound hammer would separate it without having the chance of ruining the rubber boot too. Thats probably a safer way to go.


Oh, another note: When using the spring compressors on the rear springs to replace them, make sure that you position the bolthead and spring in a way that will allow you to use an impact wrench to loosen the compressors. It can get pretty tight and difficult to position at times. Make sure that the spring is seated almost correctly on the bottom. It can and probably will have to be misaligned in order to get tools to the boltheads. Once they are near uncompressed but not fully you can apply weight to the axle to give you a little more room to wiggle the spring back and forth into a proper seating. (A long 4ft + prybar comes in real handy here too the same as it does when replacing the front assembly)

I know this may not make a whole lot of sense, but once you begin to go through the process this'll be helpful.

In the end, make sure your springs are properly seated.


If your lift comes with the rear shocks, don't sell or give them away. Keep them in your garage. You may want to move to a coil over system and ditch the XREAS when/if they become available. (Got my fingers crossed)

Doug M.

Biff

I got the shop manuals, and so does Lance. If you want I can bring them, or make a copy of what you need.

bulldog-yota

Victor will let you know, I want to get the manuals anyhow. I notice impact wrenches are $$$, it would be good if you can bring one.

Biff

Sounds good, my impact wrench is cordless and small enough to fit anywhere.

keisur

Jeez, I'm glad my wife doesn't want her '03 lifted. don't try the hammer way, I started to on mine when I was replacing the rack boots and what happens is the TRE stud starts to mangle and the threads will mash and become unthreadable. those tierods are in there pretty good. it is best just to get the separater from Autozone for about $7-$9 and do it.

There's a large and a small size, I got them both because I was replacing ball joints too and one fit the ball joint and the other fit the tierod. don't remember which.
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36861
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=36865

r0cky

bahhh. i don't know what kind of impact wrench to get .. i think the daystar directions mentioned torquing to 150lbs/ft at one point, but i still don't know what to get.e

keisur

I wouldn't use an impact wrench to torque, it's not accurate. use a torque wrench to torque to a spec'd value. Use the impact wrench to break a stubborn bolt or nut when trying to loosen it. Pick one up that is at least 400 ft/lb and has an adjustable torque value. that should be sufficient to break loose most anything on your 4runner. I would get a 1/2" and not a 3/8" drive if I were you. If you do any work later on, you'll be glad you did. 3/8" is sort of wimpy.

this is a good one: http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...=specs#tablink

r0cky

thanks keisur ... I have some shopping for tools to do tomorrow. i don't have an impact wrench or a torque wrench yet, but i can see how both would be useful / necessary.

keisur

This would be a good torque wrench since the 150 wouldn't be right at the upper limit of the wrench like the one a step down from it: I have the one a step down and it's kind of iffy when I did my front diff and torqued the front wheel hub nuts.

http://www.sears.com/sr/javasr/produ...id=00944597000

r0cky

3/8" is wimpy? hmm ... so then I will have to buy all new sockets ... and on the torque wrench, I worry that it will be useless in small spaces (vertically, I mean)..

Mossback74

For doing lug nuts and such, 3/8 is too small. But they do have their place. It's tough to use a 1/2 to torque things like spark plugs. What is the problem with buying more tools, I use any excuse I can to get a few more sockets

r0cky

mossback -- problem with buying more tools right now is that i don't have that much money to throw around because i go to school and also saved up for the lift kit -- not intending to pay a bunch extra for tools. i was hoping to use the 3/8 for this lift project until i could afford 1/2" ... do you think i need 1/2" for the lift installation? if so, i guess i'll get them, i just had been hoping not to.

Mossback74

Why do you need an impact wrench anyway? Is it only to use on the spring compressor? If thats the case then 3/8 would be fine. An electric drill with an adapter would be better.


(this thread is getting lo o o o o o ng)

*edit* after looking more for what you need it for even a 3/8 impact wrench would be over kill. I would get an air ratchet(or cordless driver).