04 4R hub nut torque
02-09-2009, 07:18 AM
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04 4R hub nut torque
Hey all - I'm looking for the torque spec on the large hub nut (I guess you'd call it that, it's about 1-1/8" or so) just under the black cap on the front wheels of our 04 4Runner, 4wd.
I searched under "torque" and didn't find it. It's my wife's ride so I don't come here too awful much.....thanks!!
Josh
I searched under "torque" and didn't find it. It's my wife's ride so I don't come here too awful much.....thanks!!
Josh
02-09-2009, 08:36 AM
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So, you're talking about the nut that threads onto the end of the CV axle, I assume?
The torque value for that nut on my 2002 4Runner is 174 ft-lb. If I recall correctly, the torque value on the 4th gen 4Runners for that nut is the same as on mine... plus or minus a few ft-lb.
You'll need to have somebody hold the brake pedal down (engine running so that you have power assist) when you're loosening/re-tightening that nut.
The torque value for that nut on my 2002 4Runner is 174 ft-lb. If I recall correctly, the torque value on the 4th gen 4Runners for that nut is the same as on mine... plus or minus a few ft-lb.
You'll need to have somebody hold the brake pedal down (engine running so that you have power assist) when you're loosening/re-tightening that nut.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-09-2009 at 08:38 AM.
02-09-2009, 09:49 AM
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So, you're talking about the nut that threads onto the end of the CV axle, I assume?
The torque value for that nut on my 2002 4Runner is 174 ft-lb. If I recall correctly, the torque value on the 4th gen 4Runners for that nut is the same as on mine... plus or minus a few ft-lb.
You'll need to have somebody hold the brake pedal down (engine running so that you have power assist) when you're loosening/re-tightening that nut.
The torque value for that nut on my 2002 4Runner is 174 ft-lb. If I recall correctly, the torque value on the 4th gen 4Runners for that nut is the same as on mine... plus or minus a few ft-lb.
You'll need to have somebody hold the brake pedal down (engine running so that you have power assist) when you're loosening/re-tightening that nut.
174 is your bet, k man thanks!
Josh
02-09-2009, 10:53 AM
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Ouch... I always pull up (use your legs... not your back) when I break those loose (instead of pushing down). It gives you a bit more control when it finally releases. The first time I did it, the torque wrench I owned only went to 150 ft-lb. I torqued it to 150 ft-lb, then gave it just a bit more for good measure (estimated the last 25 ft-lb). It hasn't caused me any grief. I now own a torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lb (had to buy it when I started doing timing belt/water pump replacements.)
ps. be careful that you don't damage the threads on the lug bolts when you wedge something between them to keep the rotor from turning.
ps. be careful that you don't damage the threads on the lug bolts when you wedge something between them to keep the rotor from turning.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-09-2009 at 10:55 AM.
02-09-2009, 11:09 AM
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Ouch... I always pull up (use your legs... not your back) when I break those loose (instead of pushing down). It gives you a bit more control when it finally releases. The first time I did it, the torque wrench I owned only went to 150 ft-lb. I torqued it to 150 ft-lb, then gave it just a bit more for good measure (estimated the last 25 ft-lb). It hasn't caused me any grief. I now own a torque wrench that goes to 250 ft-lb (had to buy it when I started doing timing belt/water pump replacements.)
ps. be careful that you don't damage the threads on the lug bolts when you wedge something between them to keep the rotor from turning.
ps. be careful that you don't damage the threads on the lug bolts when you wedge something between them to keep the rotor from turning.
I put rags b/t the studs and the breaker - been there done that
Bar wasn't long enough to wedge AND rest against the concrete either... Per my post above I'm thinkin 150 and call it good - All I've got is a Craftsman that goes to 150.Thanks man.
Last edited by headleyj; 02-09-2009 at 11:11 AM.
02-09-2009, 11:18 AM
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There's a cotter pin on the 4th gens too, to prevent it from backing out, isn't there?
I'd be surprised if the 4th gen spec is 150-155, and not more like the 175 that I stated above, but in the grand scheme of things, your truck won't know the difference between the two anyways.
As for pushing vs pulling, if you must push because of a bad shoulder, I find it easier to lay down on my back and push up on the breaker bar (like bench pressing) rather than pushing down. Again, that just gives you more control.
I'd be surprised if the 4th gen spec is 150-155, and not more like the 175 that I stated above, but in the grand scheme of things, your truck won't know the difference between the two anyways.
As for pushing vs pulling, if you must push because of a bad shoulder, I find it easier to lay down on my back and push up on the breaker bar (like bench pressing) rather than pushing down. Again, that just gives you more control.
Last edited by GSGALLANT; 02-09-2009 at 11:20 AM.
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02-09-2009, 11:29 AM
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There's a cotter pin on the 4th gens too, to prevent it from backing out, isn't there?
I'd be surprised if the 4th gen spec is 150-155, and not more like the 175 that I stated above, but in the grand scheme of things, your truck won't know the difference between the two anyways.
As for pushing vs pulling, if you must push because of a bad shoulder, I find it easier to lay down on my back and push up on the breaker bar (like bench pressing) rather than pushing down. Again, that just gives you more control.
I'd be surprised if the 4th gen spec is 150-155, and not more like the 175 that I stated above, but in the grand scheme of things, your truck won't know the difference between the two anyways.
As for pushing vs pulling, if you must push because of a bad shoulder, I find it easier to lay down on my back and push up on the breaker bar (like bench pressing) rather than pushing down. Again, that just gives you more control.
Thanks again man
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