snowboarder86

I am curious about other peoples opinions when it comes to cold weather and their pickups/ 4 runners.

Ive noticed that once it starts getting cold my truck has several issues and i am wondering if these are common:

- defrost blower fan sounds like it hitting the shroud until it warms up. (biggest problem)
-Aftermarket stero has no bass till warm, display is dim (it was cheap so not suprised)

-truck cranks over for longer.
-as with most vehicles steering fluid is thick, only it doesn't seam to warm up
-engine ticks even more
- After cleaning the throttle body and replacing the o2 sensor ive got the idle down a bit but it is still erratic (550-750 rpm when warm) about 1800 when cold and it doesn't come down for at least 5 minutes even after stepping on the gas and driving a bit.

there is others but i cant think of them off the top of my head.


Most of these problem are noticeable at -15C(5F), much worse at -25C(-13F) and i am not sure how bad it will be once it gets cold. What are other peoples experances with cold weather. I put in a block heater a month ago.

Mark

toyota4x4907

Defrost blower fan- No idea. Probably just cold. All three of my Yotas have had squeaky blower fans when cold..

No bass- Speakers are cold, probably the part that moves in and out is compressed in the tube.

Cranks slower- Normal for 99% of vehicle, especially older ones, when cold. Get a battery and oil pan heaters to go along with your block heater.

Thick fluids- See above. At -20F and colder, my power steering is thick at first, it warms up and get better after driving a few mins, but starts to get thick again after driving 15+ minutes. My clutch fluid is always thick at -20F and colder. It gets tough to push the clutch even! I've been thinking of putting a heat onto the clutch line somewhere. I have used a transmission heater pad with varied results.

Engine ticks more- Oil is thicker when cold, cant get to every nook and cranny as easily. Metal parts are compressed differently, making everything closer together.

Idle- Its called fast idle. It does it to warm up the engine quicker when cold. Mine will get as high as 2800 rpm when warming up when it is -30F and colder, and will be there for at least 5 minutes. Its normal. Let the vehicle warm up AT LEAST 2 minutes before driving, revving, etc when it is cold.

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

I have the same thing with the clicking fan motor and mine seems to take about 1 second longer than it usually does cranking over to start it.

snowboarder86

Sounds like its all pretty common, this truck has given me the most trouble of any of my vehicles but the other were much newer. The clutch is one I forgot it is brutal! I might switch every fluid to synthetic. I have synthetic in the engine so it shouldn't thicken much but iam sure the cold effects the metals as 4x4907 mentioned. The blower motor is defiantly the most annoying thing. I haven't had to use a battery heater here before so I think I would spend the $$ on a new battery before I bought a warmer, good advice though none the less.

As for the high idle has always been an issue. I realize all vehicles do it but usually they settle down much faster then this Toyota. I am guessing that this is just a toyota thing. I am debating getting a remote start for this reason. Thoughts? Are they a pain with a stick shift? ( i have only had one with an auto).

bicklebok

My tachometer doesnt work when its cold weather. But after she warms up she starts working.

toyota4x4907

Maybe they are more expensive in Canada, but here, the most expensive heater pad, being the battery one since it is the largest, its only $28USD. Compared to a new battery of at least $100USD. Its bad on a battery to be subject to cold weather for extended periods of time and be warmed back up for a short period. Like over night, then driving for only a few minutes only to be left cold for 8+ hours at work, then only a few minutes while driving. Get a battery heat pad and a 3-way or 4-way plug so the block and whatever heater pads you get plug into one plug. I'm surprised you dont have all those already living in a colder part of Canada.
The idle is kind of a TOYOTA thing. More of a 22re/3vze thing. And its just an older vehicle.....

jbw

Everything works fine (relatively fine, mind you) even when it gets cold.

The only problem I've had is that the tach has stopped working for a bit when it was cold, but that was a one-time issue that only lasted around 20 minutes.

Otherwise it started just fine in -20 celcius weather with no block heater, no abnormal noises or problems I could find for a 20 year old truck, I just let it warm up for a while.

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

Does anyone have any recommendations on types, brands, styles, or any other thoughts on using heating pads and things of this nature? I have been debating putting one or two on mine for years and haven't ever really ever decided on what kind is best and what are the real over all advantages to having them are. Does anybody have one on their rig?

snowboarder86

survivorman97- I was going to put on a lower rad heater, realized that since it is metal and the rubber part dosnt have enough rise as per instructions I opted to do the heating Pad. Realized that probley wouldnt work as well since there is a welded peice on the bottom of the oil pan so it wouldnt be in direct contact with the oil pan. Returned it and ended up getting a freeze plug heater OEM style. It was a pain to get the plug out but the install was very easy and it works well. A fraction of the price of the heating pad too. I would suggest forgetting about the pad and going strait for the freeze plug heater, in my experance anyways.

jbw- I know what you mean, I grew up in the Kootneys (Creston) and never needed to plug it in but its much colder here. My truck is actually from Spokane which more less has the same weather and it never had a block heater till I put one in. Its interesting to hear that you havent had any problems though cause even today (-15C) iam having issues just not as bad.

sb5walker

Recommend switching the power steering fluid to Mobil 1 ATF. The Canadian version of that product is a full synthetic that has the best cold flow of just about any ATF. BTW, never use power steering fluid in these trucks - they require ATF that meets the Dexron III spec (which the Mobil 1 ATF does.)

If the engine ticks more, it may be because you're using an oil that gets too thick to flow well when very cold, and so you're getting metal on metal. Recommend using a 0W-30 or 0W-40 full synthetic. The Esso XD-3 Extra 0W-30 and 0W-40 oils are excellent.

Gear oils are the worst flowing fluids in the cold, so going synthetic there is also a good idea. Amsoil MTG GL-4 or Red Line MT-90 for the tranny and transfer case (if manual trans), or that Mobil 1 ATF if auto, and Amsoil Severe Gear 75W-90 GL-5 for the differentials will be the best for cold flow.

Prestone Windshield De-Icer is the least likely to freeze on the windshield while driving of all the windshield washers.

snowboarder86

Iam running amsoil synthetics in my engine, tranny, diffs and transfer caseI will probley switch my clutch and power steering in the summer for next winter. Does anyone know if there is a fix for the noisy blower?

camo31_10.50

your clutch fluid gets thick? what about your brake fluid since it's the same?

you guys seem to have covered pretty much everything..and have reminded me that i need to switch out all my fluids sometime lol.

Redline fluids and diff breathers, should be a short fun job lol

UKrunner

Only thing I've ever noticed that's unusual is intermittently the speedo squeals until it warms up.

toyota4x4907

There arent really brands to choose from that are important. Schucks/Oreilly's sells ones that are more rubbery. NAPA's seem to be like a thread/rubber combo. I have found that the rubbery ones arent as strong, but MAYBE distribute heat a little better. The thread/rope/rubber ones seem to be more durable. But really, thats not too important. I do not shop at Schucks anymore so I have been buying the NAPA ones this fall when I was winterizing people's vehicles. There will be different sizes. The largest one is tpyically used for under the battery, medium for oil pan, and smaller sizes for transmissions and whatever else you want to put one on. There are also block heaters that attach to a freeze plug to warm the coolant and, to some degree, the engine itself. They just attach using silicone gasket maker stuff like Permatex, or similar products.
I have a block heater, a battery heater pad, an oil pan heater pad and a transmission heater pad.

87 4x4

in my 87 with 22r the truck also seems to tick but doesnt go away. it sounds like only 1 cylinder.

i also have some noise with the blower motor too. not a click but on max blow it sounds overly labored and is giving a deeper sound. i dunno what it is really. i usually have it on the lowest setting once warmed up.

The Rockin Hoskin

[QUOTE]No bass- Speakers are cold, probably the part that moves in and out is compressed in the tube.
[QUOTE]

When this happens is it bad to turn you system up loud, and how cold does it have to get for this to happen?

survivorman97

iTrader: (1)

There are also block heaters that attach to a freeze plug to warm the coolant and, to some degree, the engine itself. They just attach using silicone gasket maker stuff like Permatex, or similar products. (quote)

So this may be dumb question but is a freeze plug? I have heard it mentioned a couple of times and wouldn't know where to look for it. Also pictures of different block/rad/ battery heaters would be cool if anyone is up for it? Also what is the big advantage to having a heater for your block.I know that it warms the oil up but isn't the reason oil have variable weights to it is for cold weather?

snowboarder86

[QUOTE=The Rockin Hoskin;51612539][QUOTE]No bass- Speakers are cold, probably the part that moves in and out is compressed in the tube.

Usually starts about -15 C (-5F) gets much worse at -25C. I will probley get new speakers eventually as these ones are pretty cheap and it shows. I am starting to get some engine whine feedback that kicks in occasionally but iam not too concerned as its a pretty easy fix.

snowboarder86

The freeze plug is a steel or brass plug that is wedged into the block. you can usually find them on the sides (there is more then one) its like a round indent into the side of the block, unfortunately I don't have a pic but its easy enough to google.

Heaters prevent a lot of strain on you engine when it gets very cold. It also allows the engine to reach operating temperature sooner which means the driver also gets heat! A very nice perk of plugging in... conventional oils become very thick as the temperature drops. This makes the engine harder to turn over and means the oil cant lubricate properly as the oil is like peanut butter. If it is very cold the oil in the trans and axle will thicken as well. You have to give it a lot of gas to overcome the friction until the engine and tranny warms up a bit. This is why a lot of people use block heaters and pad heaters for there rigs. Synthetic oil makes a big difference as well since it dosnt thicken even if you uses a thinner convention oil in winter, there can be such a temperature range that its still not ideal.

toyota4x4907

Typical battery/oil pan/ transmission heater pad:




Block heater: