yotaman90

@familiesr4ever - When you installed the anti-diesel solenoid did you remember to take the jet from the jet holder and add it to the solenoid?

eekus

hello I have a 87 toyota it seems to have plenty of carb related problems if I don't run it with a high idle it will flood and run funny. it always smells like its running rich.
I get really poor gas milege.
and my fuel pump keeps going out.
I'm hoping to switch to an electric fuel pump with a regulator but I don't know the right pressure the carb needs.I see that the webbers take 3-4 psi would my stock carb work with that?.

also does anyone have any ideas on how to get better fuel economy?
is there a good carb kit out there that'l help save gas?
seems to me like the webbers have too many problems of their own.

thanks for all the replies and help

xxxtreme22r

Webers don't have problems most of the time and most of the time the owners of the truck has problems.

The stock carb is a pretty good carb. And nothing out there carb wise is gonna give you better fuel economy then the stock one.

Factory fuel pressure with stock fuel pump and stock carb is listed in the FSM for your truck. IIRC 6-7 psi which is regulated inside the fuel pump.

Personally I would leave the mechanical pump and not switch to electrical pump. Too many other things you have to do safety wise to run them, otherwise your in for more problems then you think the webers have.

Sounds to me the carb probably just needs to get rebuilt or the choke is malfunctioning. How do you know it's running rich at idle? What is the fuel level doing inside the carb? Hint there is a fuel bowl level sight glass to tell you. Is the level staying in the middle of the sight glass as it should?

More info on your carb can be found here: http://www.bluebassdesign.com/boonin/carb_faq/
Your FSM can be found here: http://www.ncttora.com/fsm/ Hint. use the 88 one.

eekus

thanks for your reply.
the fuel level stays where its supposted to be. (middle)
if I let it idle for too long or go too slow on the highway it will start running really bad.
(blup blup blup blup) and will have the distinct odor of a rich mix. it will die if I don't play with the gas pedal. and if it dies I will have a hard time starting it. at least 15 secs of cranking. fallowed by a huge black cloud of smoke.
the only way I was able to stop this was by turning my idle wayy up. I wish I could idle it at low rpm but it starts running bad everytime. also my sparkplugs tell me its running rich. I don't have wires hooked up except the idler silinoid

I have had the mechanial pump go out twice a year its getting rather tiresome. also I have used an electric knocker pump before seemed to run fine exept it was always running rich. even when I put the stock pump on it didnt fix the problem.

I only figured webers have problems because of all the posts I was reading about them being affected by altitude and that they need alot of tlc. I want something that I wont have to mess with every couple weeks.

Do you know where I could get a rebuild kit for my stock carb? I've checked ebay but nothing.

xxxtreme22r

Any carb is gonna have issues at different altitudes, (22r w/ HAC is an exception).

What did you set your timing to?

eekus

my timing is on the mark I believe. the 00 or whatever it is I can't remember.
but I have changed the head.2 years back
did a full overhaul. last year.
had to reset the timing each time.
and it didnt change anything exept with the new rings I got a boost of power.
I will try to get a timing light and look into the distributor timing.

do you know as of anyplace I can buy a rebuild kit for my carb?
thanks again for your help. I found your link useful to understand my carb better.

xxxtreme22r

www.webercarbsdirect.com should have one for a weber, any of your local napa stores should have one for the factory AISIN. I wouldn't use any other kit autozone etc for the factory carb.

jburress10@yahoo.com

I have a weber on my 86. The book says 86 and up to turn the air screw out 3 1/2 turns, but that seems pretty extreme. I'm wondering where it should be on a weber? It also backfires a little a few seconds after I turn it off but the timing and valves are adjusted right. How far out should the air screw be, and does anyone know if that may have something to do with the backfire? It still idles and runs fine?

87yo_ta

If I remember correctly more than 2 1/2 turns out indicates the mixture is too lean. This could cause the backfire you mention. Even after you get the idle mixture set correctly you may find you need to install an idle cutoff solenoid switch to keep it from spitting and sputtering when you shut it off.

Yoda38052

I have a 1980 with 20r that I just desmogged and installed a weber 32/36. It runs fine at idle but when on the road it wants to load up and last night it back fired out the tail pipe. I parked it and I am stumped. I haven't put a fuel pressure regulator on it yet and it's using a mechanical fuel pump. It also is dieseling when I cut it off but my weber doesn't have a cut off solenoid. Open to suggestions because she is sitting in my drive right now.

Yoda38052

JonnyBoy

Yoda, have you gone through the setup instructions that came with the Weber? Set the speed screw, adjust the mixture screw, etc, etc? If you have, what are you screw settings? If not, you absolutely need to go through the instructions, step by step, then post the settings. Without that, it's kind of a shot in the dark and we could be telling you to try stuff that's useless.

Same thing goes for ensuring your timing is perfect and you have no(and I mean absolutely none!) vacuum leaks. If those aren't good, you'll never get the Weber to run right. I will say that after you have that set, they aren't really that sensetive to altitude compared to most carbs. I used to run mine from 4,000 to almost 10,000 feet elevation without changing settings or jets, and it would still run ok.

camping.priest

i just rebuilt and installed the exact same carb on an 86 and now it will not start. carb is not receiving fuel. any suggestions? i need to troubleshoot this quick as i did it for a shop i work out of and i am in no way a bad mechanic but this reflects badly on me. truck sat up for 6 years and i found out today that the carb sat for 1 year outside. everything was cleaned and replaced when i rebuilt it.

MAINETOY

iTrader: (2)

First off don't true Webers have a white choke?Also i bet you have a vacuum leak at the troublesome 2 piece adapter plate.Very bad design in my eyes.I know its an old thread and hoped you figured it out.I ran a weber on a Chevy Luv truck and it was mint,huge improvement over factory carb,great performance and wasn't constantly adjusting it.Always started mint and it gets below zero here in the winter.

camping.priest

OK. Thank. Yeah the two piece adapter made me wary also. I'll retorque it in the morning and see if that works.

Azreg

What do you do with the purge line from the charcoal canister? Do you just remove it or does it have to be plugged somewhere?

87yo_ta

I removed everything associated with emissions including the canister, lines, EGR etc.