familiesr4ever

I installed a new Redline Weber Carb 32/36 on my 86 - 22R. I cannot get it to run right. The only hoses I have connected are the EGR adaptor to the PCV valve; front valve cover vent to breather adaptor on the Carb and the one vacuum advance. I blocked all other vacuum lines. I can attach pictures if needed. The cold idle is very high; Warm idle surges up and down and it stalls at stop signs. If I adjust the linkage to reduce the cold idle it is too low on warm idle. I adjusted the cold idle adjustment screw all the way down but it still revs too high. The fuel/air mixture screw does not seem to make any difference. I took it to a local shop to have it checked and they said I needed a tune-up. I took it home and replace, wires, plugs, cap, rotor, fuel filter but to no avail. Any suggestions would be great!

spokane.yota.man

welcome to the world of webers! despite the fact they seem very easy to tune that is far from the truth. i had my 32/36 for years and it was very hard to keep it tuned correctly. it seems like everything from temp to elevation would really throw it off. make sure your choke is hooked up properly. the electric choke needs a power source that is only hot when ignition is turned on. check your timing, from my experince small changes in engine performance can change your timing requirements. also make sure you don't have any vacuum leaks. spray all around with carb cleaner and listen for a change in rpms. if it starts to die while spraying then theres a leak. i actually just replaced my weber with my original stock carb that i rebuilt. so far ive been more happy with the stock but i haven't got much road testing in yet since its also getting a paint job. good luck! with a weber you either love it or hate it. you'll soon find out which category you fall in. don't get rid of the stock carb either if you still have it.

familiesr4ever

Thanks for the reply! I will try checking those items again.

xxxtreme22r

" The fuel/air mixture screw does not seem to make any difference. "

this is where the problem lies. If this is the case, it is almost always a vacuum leak that causes this. Which also explains why the idle is so high.

How many vacuum lines do you have hooked up to the distributor right now?

familiesr4ever

On the vacuum advance on the Distributor, I just have one going to the Carburator with the other one capped off.

xxxtreme22r

which port did you use on the distributor. and where is it caped of at, the distributor or the hard line near the valve cover.

familiesr4ever

I will post some pics as soon as I get home in about 45 minutes to make sure I don't tell you wrong.

familiesr4ever

Pictures

familiesr4ever

Pictures

xxxtreme22r

everything looks as though it should, however, I am curious as to what you did with the vacuum rail that runs along the valve cover. Although I did notice you don't have a power wire going to the idle shut-off solenoid.

familiesr4ever

I removed the vacuum rail and capped off all other vacuum lines that I could find. Do you know which wire hooks to the solenoid and if that would make a difference with the way it is running?

xxxtreme22r

it may or may not, usually the idle cutt-of is just to shutt he inlet of fuel when you turn the key off so it won't diesel down. On mine I just tapped the same wire that the choke is hooked into. also it's a good idea to put a fuel regulator (holley ones are the only ones I will use) set it to 4psi. and make sure the fuel return line is plugged. I can't tell from the photos as they are kinda small.

familiesr4ever

I will hook up the cut-off as you suggested as mine does diesel. I read another forum that said the fuel pressure can cause some of the problems I am having. The regulators I have looked at are all around $100 or more. I did not want to put that much into it if I am going to have to go back to my factory carb. Do you have a link for the suggested model you recommend or just any holly regulator? Can you explain more about the return line. How does that affect it? I did not do anything with the return. Does it go back to the tank?

xxxtreme22r

yes the return line goes back to the tank. because the stock fuel pump is internally regulated using the fuel return line, every time the fuel pump needs to lower the fuel pressure it opens the return line, this in turn takes away flowrate from the carb, which is more important than actual pressure. Factory fuel pressure I believe is about 6-7psi, but if you hook a gauge to it with the fuel return line hooked up it jumps up and down considerably. This is why the pressure regulator coupled with the return line blocked is a good idea with a weber that is only designed for 3.5-4 psi. Although I do run mine at 1.5-2 psi when off-roading.

Best regulator you can buy IMHO:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/HLY-12-804/

gonna also need 3/8" NPT hose barbs in the correct nipple fitting for the fuel lines to and from the regulator.

and a 1/4 female to 3/8 NPT male adapter fitting for the gauge.

you will also want to pick up a gauge while your at it:

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MRG-1561/

The gauge will attach to one side of the regulator.

familiesr4ever

Awesome information and great prices! I will order these items and hook them up and post back to let everyone know how it worked. Thanks again for all the help!!

dhall50

The VERY first thing you need too do is grab a can of carb cleaner and start your truck. Slowly spray the base of your carb from different angles several times until you spray around the entire carb. It will stumble if you have a vacuum leak. I had one and didnt realize it. Next. With your truck warmed up all the way turn it off and make sure the choke is off. Make sure your throttle is all the way back. Turn the idle screw until it is not touching the throttle and then turn it in until it touches. The second it touches turn it in just under 1.5 turns. The carb will not work right if turned out more than this. Next turn the mixture screw all the way in but just until it touches no torque. Then turn it out 2.25 turns. Start the truck and see how it runs. If it need the mix screw turns out more you have a vacuum leak. If it idles fine see how it runs. Make sure you are adjusting the correct screws. I was having lots of problems and it was because my adapter plate was leaking.

dhall50

ps. if your idle is kicked down where it should be it should not diesel when you turn it off. It diesels because the carb is still dumping more fuel then it should be.

iamsuperbleeder

kinda off topic... but I use to have an Isuzu with the 32/36 DGEV on it, and until I got it set up right, it would diesel every time I shut it of, but it would diesel and spin the motor reversed; as in the wrong way





but it had other problems too, lol








okay sorry, thread hijack over, lol

1981 yota

hey familiesr4ever ive got the same problem your having how did putting that regulator on help

truckdoc

I have an 85 yotsa with a weber wk746-34/wks752-34 mine runs fine except at a steady rpm. idles great and accelerates great.... I called the redline tech line and they told me the only vacuums i needed to run was the PCV, breather, and advance. mine is still running rough at a steady rpm but it did help a little. im just running too rich and need a fuel pressure regulator.