Waterless antifreeze, I use it, anyone else?
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Waterless antifreeze, I use it, anyone else?
I started using Evans Waterless Antifreeze over six years ago and I have it in everything but my wife's Lexus, its next.
It boils at 375 *F, never has to be replaced, is good down to -70*F, then it contracts. Not harmful to animals, prevents cavitation.
I love the old Mercedes diesels from the 80s, I still have three. The 86-87 300 SDL engine is like our 3vx, likes to blow head gaskets. While mine was still good, I put in the Evans, six years later and maybe 100K more miles, I'm still good.
The day I installed it, I took the car on a 20 mile I-20 run, pulled off on a ramp and removed the radiator cap, all I got was a weak ptzzz. You can run with the cap loose and even without a cap if that's what you wanted, although I have not done so.
Anyone else out there using it?
Harry
It boils at 375 *F, never has to be replaced, is good down to -70*F, then it contracts. Not harmful to animals, prevents cavitation.
I love the old Mercedes diesels from the 80s, I still have three. The 86-87 300 SDL engine is like our 3vx, likes to blow head gaskets. While mine was still good, I put in the Evans, six years later and maybe 100K more miles, I'm still good.
The day I installed it, I took the car on a 20 mile I-20 run, pulled off on a ramp and removed the radiator cap, all I got was a weak ptzzz. You can run with the cap loose and even without a cap if that's what you wanted, although I have not done so.
Anyone else out there using it?
Harry
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I heard of the stuff but I'm in no hurry to change mine but I will be paying attention to how the stuff does in more and more real world applications as more people start to use it.
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I put a new radiator hose on my SDL when I first started using NPG+ and it still holds the original shape, no ballooning.
Harry
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I'm still using it. I like that I never have to worry about boiling-over or hot spots on the head surface causing detonation or rust & corrosion in the cooling system. My only complaints are the initial cost of it, and it would be hard to find replacement coolant on the road if you ever sprang a leak. As a result I carry an extra gal with me all the time.
I've developed some good techniques for catching it, and reusing it when I change the t-stat or radiator or for some other reason have to drain the coolant.
The catching part:
Then before going back in I filter it in case some dirt dropped in:
I've developed some good techniques for catching it, and reusing it when I change the t-stat or radiator or for some other reason have to drain the coolant.
The catching part:
Then before going back in I filter it in case some dirt dropped in:
Last edited by mt_goat; 02-01-2009 at 08:04 AM.
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Thanks Dale, I'll follow suit when needed.
I appreciated reading about the extensive research you did on NPG+ before using it, good information.
Harry
I appreciated reading about the extensive research you did on NPG+ before using it, good information.
Harry
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Wish I had known about this stuff when I went through the cooling system on my van or when I did the timeing belt on the 4runner.
They both have toyota red now, so I'll keep an eye on this stuff. I think it costs about what a gallon of toyota red does at the dealership.
They both have toyota red now, so I'll keep an eye on this stuff. I think it costs about what a gallon of toyota red does at the dealership.
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Water conducts/dissipates heat A LOT better than a 50/50 mix.
The only reason we use coolant/antifreeze is to increase the boiling point of the liquid and decrease the freezing point.
Modern engines run really close to 200-210 degrees (which is normal by today's standards) and can even reach "safe" temps of 220-225 during hot summer days, long idling etc. Since water boils at 212 degrees, it would easily boil under those conditions which we don't want and that's why antifreeze is in use today.
The only reason we use coolant/antifreeze is to increase the boiling point of the liquid and decrease the freezing point.
Modern engines run really close to 200-210 degrees (which is normal by today's standards) and can even reach "safe" temps of 220-225 during hot summer days, long idling etc. Since water boils at 212 degrees, it would easily boil under those conditions which we don't want and that's why antifreeze is in use today.
#17
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What are you lubricating in the water pump? the sealed bearings full of grease? or the seals which shouldn't let any coolant past anyway?
I've looked at NPG, and while it sounds good, distilled water still has the highest "specific heat" of anything you can run in an engine (heat transfer ability). That and I worry about what happens if I need to top off while on the road.
before anyone tries to convince me otherwise with a well worded marketing schpeel, I already read it on their site. If I had a perfectly sealed system I might give it more thought.
I've looked at NPG, and while it sounds good, distilled water still has the highest "specific heat" of anything you can run in an engine (heat transfer ability). That and I worry about what happens if I need to top off while on the road.
before anyone tries to convince me otherwise with a well worded marketing schpeel, I already read it on their site. If I had a perfectly sealed system I might give it more thought.
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