YotaX

Ok I sealed the crack (fingers crossed). But after I sprayed starting fluid along the gasket it's still has a leak. so looks like I'll be removing the plenum to inspect and or replace the gasket.

Sad thing is, two years ago I tried checking for leaks using a small propane torch (without the flame on) and did not notice this. What a difference starting fluid makes.

Co_94_PU

iTrader: (-1)

Yeah it can be problematic using a torch, its that pesky mechanical fan.

Your idling down is a good sign, that indicates the fluid blocked up the air leak. Once you get that sealed up all the way it'll hopefully idle down correctly.


PS. In case you your not sick of hearing yet, or haven't heard it yet. Thank you for serving our country!

YotaX

I have found a few of the top half of the intake plenum bolts were not tightened all the way. Not sure how that slipped by. But I tightened them up and reset the ignition timing to 10 degrees with jumper. Still get bogged down with hard acceleration with a loud popping sound.

And still have a vacuum leak at the gasket. So I'll have to remove it and add some gasket maker. More to follow.

YotaX

Btw CO_94_PU thank you for the nice comment, man. I was just doing my job man but I really appreciate your appreciation and support.

MudHippy

Well...

Your AFM is mounted sideways. And, in that orientation, gravity is affecting the normal operation(opening/closing) of the measuring plate. Minimally this will alter its abilty to meter air flow accurately(and/or as designed).

What might seem like a clever use of space, and/or ingenius engineering. Seems a little less well thought out than that...to me that is. Might just be the cause for your issue(s) too.

YotaX

That's a good point Mudhippy. I never thought of that. I am a fan of aftermarket filters and cold air intake set ups. But mine is just awkward and in the way. I may go pull a factory intake off from a junk yard. But first I'll see if I can rotate the AFM housing.

SkybluYota

Im having the same problem after valve cover gaskets. Very helpful info. Thanks. Ill start with the starting fluid and go from there.

YotaX

Update: So I pulled the top plenum off and the gasket came off in a couple pieces. I seen that it was crap material. No wonder it had a vacuum leak. So now I'm extremely worried about the rest of the gaskets that came in the kit, especially the head gaskets. Anyhow, I used red RTV to build a new gasket on the top intake plenum and swapped the ghetto aftermarket intake with a factory intake set up. Reset the distributor and it fired up and it sounded so much better. Much smoother. I could actually rev it up without having to feather the throttle. It was a great feeling. So tomorrow I'm going to dial in the timing (fingers crossed) then take it for a test drive. More to come guys. Thanks

SkybluYota

My VAFM was unplugged, feel like a effin moron. But i did remount the K&N so the meter was closer to stock. I had that "popping" also. Seams that it stopped the noise. Just an FYI.

YotaX

So i still can not get it to time right. Below are a few videos along the way. At 0 or even 10 degrees with jumper set my idle is still set way too low. It gargles and pops when accelerated. No codes. And no more known vacuum leaks. But once it is warm it idles around 1300 and accelerates just fine.

Part 3: Part 4: Part 5:

YotaX

At a cold start it will start but struggle to stay running. The RPMs are less than 500. If I feather the accelerator to keep the RPMs up it will eventually warm up and smooth out.


So I need to identify what the cold start idling problem is now. I guess letting it set for 2 years has created new problems.




Any ideas??