jbtvt

I'm shimming the valves on a 3.0 and have zero clearance (negative .005" or so more likely, judging from resistance on turning the bucket). Problem is that the shim that's in there is 2.25mm, so I believe I need a 1.90mm - 2.00mm shim. Toyota doesn't seem to sell shims thinner that 2.20mm. Anyone know of a reputable aftermarket supplier selling 34mm wide shims in smaller thicknesses? I'm about ready to try sanding down on a wetstone, but would really rather not chance it. Thanks.

peow130

Try any reputable machine shops in your area?

justin_4runner

if u have the heads off then just pull that valve and sand the stem end down a little, if still in truck u can use a dreamal and sand it a little in place and then get the shim u need if u sand too much off. i had to do this with mine after having the valves cut.

jbtvt

I was going to call some of them if the wetstone failed. Not sure how they'd hold something that small on a milling machine, but they probably have some way. I will likely own the most expensive shim in the world if it comes to that

Sounds a little sketchy doing it with the heads on like that. No issues with yours so far? How many miles have you put on it since the valve job?

MudHippy

I ground down the shims for my exhaust valves. Just trying to save a buck, not because I had too. Worked just fine for me. I guess I got skills or something. No, not really, it ain't that hard actually. I just used the buckets as a holder tool and the side of a 6" fine grit grinding wheel on my bench grinder(which you technically shouldn't do...whatever, I done dumber things). Took awhile to get enough material removed from 'em(them SOBs are HARD). But with the right tools, proper technique, a steady hand, and plenty of patience...it CAN be done.

abecedarian

how do you make sure the shim has consistant thicknest irrespective of it's orientation?
shims often rotate.

RMA

grind the stem do not grind the shim.

jbtvt

Awesome, that's just the kind of success story I needed to feel better about putting a ground down shim in my engine. I'll keep the bench grinder handy then, sounds like a wetstone won't cut it. Thanks.

Doing my best to keep even pressure on the stone/grinder, and constant checking with the micrometer I suppose. And by borrowing a nice digital one that does all the conversions for me That was a concern, but if it's been running with zero clearance anything should be an improvement.

I do know the "right" way to do it would be to tear down the head and grind the stem, but a blizzard is on the way, and I need my 4x4. (Pretty sure this is an original shim, and I still can't believe Toyota would send something out of the factory with only .002" of adjustment available.)

scope103

No, no. That won't work. Take it to any machine shop and ask them to run it through their surface grinder. (Here's what they look like: http://www.use-enco.com/CGI/INSRIT?P...&PARTPG=INLMK3) It's held with a magnetic chuck, so you just drop it in, "clamp" the chuck, and punch the button. It will take off about .0003" per pass. I have no idea what they would charge, but it's a 10 minute job.

If you're really cheap, your local community college might have a machine shop, and they might have a surface grinder. Mine does.

MudHippy

Exactly.

I also made sure that I wasn't grinding in any particular direction constantly. By slowly rotating the shim/bucket and moving it "orbitally"(is that a word?) as I worked. You know, like and orbital sander. They turned out nice and flat, same thickness edge to edge. And the fine grit stone left a surprisingly smooth finish on them. They all still rotate freely in the buckets just like the others.

Tell me it won't work... I DID IT...AND IT DID!!!

alltracman78

Congratulations, you half arsed it and it worked.
It's been done before, doesn't mean it's the way it should be done.

This is how you should do it.

Have you checked the other shims?
You may have a slimmer shim already in the head.
By playing musical shims you can sometimes get them to work out.

Also, even though the parts may not be listed in the catalog, you MAY be able to order one.
If you look at the P#s they have the shim size as part of them.
Changing the shim size in the P# may get you another size that's not listed.

jbtvt

Works like a charm! I was planning an engine rebuild, now I'm planning the next 250k. Should have done this ages ago. No thinner shims are available, checked everywhere - for a loooong time.

I used a welding magnet to hold it on the side of a bench grinder, wetstone to buff, and 1200 grit paper for the final pass. Short bursts of grinding to keep temp down and not affect temper. All on the underside, cam side is untouched. Saved me loads of head labor/parts runs/hours driving through the blizzard to find a machine shop on short notice, and it feels like I've got a new truck. Couldn't ask for more. Thanks all for the input.

justin_4runner

i have not had any problems since i grinding the stems thats what the guys at the machine shop told me and so thats how i did it, i have over 5k and still running strong.

rattlewagon

Where in Vt are you? I have 2 heads worth of extra shims left over from my rebuild. I can check this weekend what thickness they are.