v6 to v4
09-26-2007, 06:35 AM
#21
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I'd suggest you either talk down the price significantly or keep shopping for another truck. If you do buy this truck, and are going to swap engines, why go to all that expense to put a smaller less powerful engine in your truck?
Put a new more reliable and high tech engine like the 3.4 in there if you are going to swap and do it AFTER the 3.0 blows up. (which could be a nice long time)
The 3.0's have had lots of head gasket issues that are fixable and likely have been on yours. The rest of the engine is very tough. You'd be amazed at how many 3.0's are in trucks with high 200,000's mileage in otherwise untouched unmodded engines.
If you are concerned, look into cleaning/replacing the oil pump. Some 3.0's when they approach 300,000 miles seem to have main or con-rod bearing failures due to poor lubrication. Whether its because of sludge build up or just wear I'm not sure but from what I have read replacing the oil pump around that time is accepted wisdom so to speak.
Frank
Put a new more reliable and high tech engine like the 3.4 in there if you are going to swap and do it AFTER the 3.0 blows up. (which could be a nice long time)
The 3.0's have had lots of head gasket issues that are fixable and likely have been on yours. The rest of the engine is very tough. You'd be amazed at how many 3.0's are in trucks with high 200,000's mileage in otherwise untouched unmodded engines.
If you are concerned, look into cleaning/replacing the oil pump. Some 3.0's when they approach 300,000 miles seem to have main or con-rod bearing failures due to poor lubrication. Whether its because of sludge build up or just wear I'm not sure but from what I have read replacing the oil pump around that time is accepted wisdom so to speak.
Frank
Last edited by elripster; 09-26-2007 at 06:37 AM.
09-26-2007, 07:21 AM
#22
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THE PROB IS IT GOTS 380,000 MILES. THATS ALOT IM SURE I WILL NEED ONE SOON. AND IT DOES RUNS STRONG. IT WOULD SPIN THE TIRES EVERY STOP. AND WAS TEARIN UP THE SOFT SAND WITH THE 4X4
09-26-2007, 07:37 AM
#24
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Hmmmm.....if it's running strong, not smoking, not knocking, getting decent mileage (for the 3.0) you never know. You could get another 100k on it.....being that it's 250k on the rebuild. If it's lasted this long, sounds like the rebuild was done well. And hopefully it was maintained well.
Were it me, I'd get it (for less than 2k....start low as you can...$1300, maybe) and wait for the motor to actually start showing signs of going south. Then, put another V6 in. Either a 3.0....if it's in good shape from a trustworthy source...or a 3.4.
On second thought, if it's an automatic...pass.
Were it me, I'd get it (for less than 2k....start low as you can...$1300, maybe) and wait for the motor to actually start showing signs of going south. Then, put another V6 in. Either a 3.0....if it's in good shape from a trustworthy source...or a 3.4.
On second thought, if it's an automatic...pass.
09-26-2007, 07:56 AM
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Hmmmm.....if it's running strong, not smoking, not knocking, getting decent mileage (for the 3.0) you never know. You could get another 100k on it.....being that it's 250k on the rebuild. If it's lasted this long, sounds like the rebuild was done well. And hopefully it was maintained well.
Were it me, I'd get it (for less than 2k....start low as you can...$1300, maybe) and wait for the motor to actually start showing signs of going south. Then, put another V6 in. Either a 3.0....if it's in good shape from a trustworthy source...or a 3.4.
On second thought, if it's an automatic...pass.
Were it me, I'd get it (for less than 2k....start low as you can...$1300, maybe) and wait for the motor to actually start showing signs of going south. Then, put another V6 in. Either a 3.0....if it's in good shape from a trustworthy source...or a 3.4.
On second thought, if it's an automatic...pass.
Last edited by 88v6yota; 09-26-2007 at 07:58 AM.
09-26-2007, 09:42 AM
#26
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If it's that good and you can get it 1500 go for it.
Seriously though, I had 300,000 on my original engine pulling 33's, 5.5" of lift, etc... (lots more weight and drag = harder working engine = shortened engine life) and it was like you described. It burned no oil, hardly leaked, didn't smoke, etc... a good engine is a good engine.
Don't buy it then fix it if it is not broken unless you are looking for a performance upgrade which is a different story altogether.
Frank
Seriously though, I had 300,000 on my original engine pulling 33's, 5.5" of lift, etc... (lots more weight and drag = harder working engine = shortened engine life) and it was like you described. It burned no oil, hardly leaked, didn't smoke, etc... a good engine is a good engine.
Don't buy it then fix it if it is not broken unless you are looking for a performance upgrade which is a different story altogether.
Frank
09-26-2007, 10:00 AM
#27
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If it's that good and you can get it 1500 go for it.
Seriously though, I had 300,000 on my original engine pulling 33's, 5.5" of lift, etc... (lots more weight and drag = harder working engine = shortened engine life) and it was like you described. It burned no oil, hardly leaked, didn't smoke, etc... a good engine is a good engine.
Don't buy it then fix it if it is not broken unless you are looking for a performance upgrade which is a different story altogether.
Frank
Seriously though, I had 300,000 on my original engine pulling 33's, 5.5" of lift, etc... (lots more weight and drag = harder working engine = shortened engine life) and it was like you described. It burned no oil, hardly leaked, didn't smoke, etc... a good engine is a good engine.
Don't buy it then fix it if it is not broken unless you are looking for a performance upgrade which is a different story altogether.
Frank
09-26-2007, 02:33 PM
#28
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I'd find a wrecked Tacoma and use it as a donor.
Search on 3.4 and swap and you'll find lots of info. It's the most straight forward option for a V6 truck.
Frank
Search on 3.4 and swap and you'll find lots of info. It's the most straight forward option for a V6 truck.
Frank
09-26-2007, 03:05 PM
#29
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um how difficult?? im pretty good with gettin my hands dirty. ive swapped a couple of engines before but same motors. a civic, 22re, bug, ect... not good with fab new mounts and stuff like that
09-26-2007, 06:16 PM
#30
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Read up at http://wwwoffroadsolutions.com
You'll have a few issues with hood clearence, but it is a relatively easy swap, since the engines are both in the same family (3VZ to 5VZ).
It's a GREAT swap, BTW!
You'll have a few issues with hood clearence, but it is a relatively easy swap, since the engines are both in the same family (3VZ to 5VZ).
It's a GREAT swap, BTW!
09-26-2007, 09:12 PM
#31
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Read up at http://wwwoffroadsolutions.com
You'll have a few issues with hood clearence, but it is a relatively easy swap, since the engines are both in the same family (3VZ to 5VZ).
It's a GREAT swap, BTW!
You'll have a few issues with hood clearence, but it is a relatively easy swap, since the engines are both in the same family (3VZ to 5VZ).
It's a GREAT swap, BTW!
09-27-2007, 06:22 AM
#32
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I think there is a period missing in the link.
www.offroadsolutions.com
This is the 3.4L V6 found in the 95.5 to 200-something tacomas and 4runners.
It's a common swap but I have not done it yet (and hope not to have to for a long time). Again, search on 3.4, swap, etc... and you'll have reading material for a good long while.
Frank
www.offroadsolutions.com
This is the 3.4L V6 found in the 95.5 to 200-something tacomas and 4runners.
It's a common swap but I have not done it yet (and hope not to have to for a long time). Again, search on 3.4, swap, etc... and you'll have reading material for a good long while.
Frank
09-27-2007, 12:01 PM
#34
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09-27-2007, 03:42 PM
#35
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09-27-2007, 08:53 PM
#37
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Actually, it was Ford that built and used a V4 in some cars for the European market. Saab also made use of the engine for their 94, 95 & 96 models in the late 60's & early 70's.
