Smog Help... Again...
#41
Thanks a lot, guys! No code that I know of. However, tech mentioned something about a sensor so possibly the TPS.
Phil,,
Yeah, 32°... Maybe he read the timing angle from diagnostic equipment?
Thanks for the pics. My year has a round connector that needs to to be jumped.
Terry,
I'll focus on the timing first 'cause that's the only issue the tech mentioned. I wont be completely accurate, though unless I have a tach.
Phil,,
Yeah, 32°... Maybe he read the timing angle from diagnostic equipment?
Thanks for the pics. My year has a round connector that needs to to be jumped.
Terry,
I'll focus on the timing first 'cause that's the only issue the tech mentioned. I wont be completely accurate, though unless I have a tach.
I recently worked on a 3.0 with a faulty tps. Timing showed like 28° or something at idle. If you were actually at 32° base timing, you would be pinging like crazy. Short the diag connector and check for codes. Also check to see if the timing changes when you short the connector(hook up the light, and while watching the mark, pull the jumper wire out and see if the timing mark moves). If it doesn't, your computer isn't seeing the idle signal from the tps. Either faulty, misadjusted, or filthy throttle body hanging the butterfly open.
#42
Leading to TPS
Thanks, j2the-e, Eton and guys.
Exactly. She runs as strong and smooth as you'd expect a 22R-E to, I get 20/22 MPG, I've driven her to Shasta and back to SD, To Big Sur and back to SD with no issues.
No change in idle when diag connector is jumped. (mentioned in 4crawler site, too)
Yes, will check that tomorrow. I'm also trying to find which section of FSM TPS is covered, but haven't found it yet. Could anyone pls point it out? (i.e., EC for Emission control, FI for Fuel system, etc)
Update:
Found relevant write-ups on TPS adjustment, Throttle body maintenance and Checks. Cleaning throttle body as you guys suggest is surely a sensible preventive maintenance activity. After all, this is a 27-YO truck and we do not know when throttle body was last cleaned.
Thanks a lot to the following for sharing their knowledge:
LCE's
4Crawler's
P.S. Thanks, Chefyota, for noticing the oil on top of my cylinder head cover; cover nuts were very loose! Fixed that yesterday. Can't find any torque spec for nuts (I guess because these have rubber-loaded washers), so I just made them hand-tight.
Short the diag connector and check for codes. Also check to see if the timing changes when you short the connector(hook up the light, and while watching the mark, pull the jumper wire out and see if the timing mark moves).
If it doesn't, your computer isn't seeing the idle signal from the tps. Either faulty, misadjusted, or filthy throttle body hanging the butterfly open.
Update:
Found relevant write-ups on TPS adjustment, Throttle body maintenance and Checks. Cleaning throttle body as you guys suggest is surely a sensible preventive maintenance activity. After all, this is a 27-YO truck and we do not know when throttle body was last cleaned.
Thanks a lot to the following for sharing their knowledge:
LCE's
4Crawler's
P.S. Thanks, Chefyota, for noticing the oil on top of my cylinder head cover; cover nuts were very loose! Fixed that yesterday. Can't find any torque spec for nuts (I guess because these have rubber-loaded washers), so I just made them hand-tight.
Last edited by RAD4Runner; 07-20-2013 at 08:26 AM. Reason: TPS discussed by LCE & 4Crawler
#43
Got Code & Cleaned Throttle Body
Hi guys,
Update:
Throttle feels sticking so I cleaned the butterfly valve, the walls around it and got rid of that sticking.
Shorted the connector encircled in light blue on 4Crawler site here.
Got CEL. I have no code reader but I count 11 flashes. Then pause, then 11 flashes...
Now searching for what that means. Hope someone can post it here if you know.
TIA
Update:
Throttle feels sticking so I cleaned the butterfly valve, the walls around it and got rid of that sticking.
Shorted the connector encircled in light blue on 4Crawler site here.
Got CEL. I have no code reader but I count 11 flashes. Then pause, then 11 flashes...
Now searching for what that means. Hope someone can post it here if you know.
TIA
#45
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Just go to search browser type in check engine light codes for OBD1.
You'll see code 11 you have Momentarily power to your ECU you mite want to check out your throttle position sensor. Check the Connection.
You'll see code 11 you have Momentarily power to your ECU you mite want to check out your throttle position sensor. Check the Connection.
#47
11 flashes points to TPS etc.
I've never had a CEL until I shorted out those terminal.
Isn't shorting out the terminals necessary to set timing, and a CEL is a normal outcome of that? OR am I wrong, and I should not get a CEL/ code when I short out the terminals to check timing?
OR do you think there was already an error cord and shorting the terminals is how one would force ECU to display the code?
#48
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Ray,
you do need to short the terminal every time you set timing.
I don't know if you can have a fault code without it flashing on the dashboard firstso it's hard to tell if your code was a result of shorting the terminal or if it was already there all along
you do need to short the terminal every time you set timing.
I don't know if you can have a fault code without it flashing on the dashboard firstso it's hard to tell if your code was a result of shorting the terminal or if it was already there all along
#49
Thanks, Phil.
11 flashes points to TPS etc.
I've never had a CEL until I shorted out those terminal.
Isn't shorting out the terminals necessary to set timing, and a CEL is a normal outcome of that? OR am I wrong, and I should not get a CEL/ code when I short out the terminals to check timing?
OR do you think there was already an error cord and shorting the terminals is how one would force ECU to display the code?
11 flashes points to TPS etc.
I've never had a CEL until I shorted out those terminal.
Isn't shorting out the terminals necessary to set timing, and a CEL is a normal outcome of that? OR am I wrong, and I should not get a CEL/ code when I short out the terminals to check timing?
OR do you think there was already an error cord and shorting the terminals is how one would force ECU to display the code?
#50
So shorting the pins makes sure that ECU sees TPS at idle position when setting timing?
11 flashes code was caused by shorting the pins so that's normal?
Tnx, guys
11 flashes code was caused by shorting the pins so that's normal?
Tnx, guys
#51
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Ray, i'd do this in this order:
1) remove throttle body and adjust tps to spec (4crawler has an article)
2) short diag port and set timing
You need throttle plate adjusted to spec to properly adjust tps, and then tps working to set timing (I think)
1) remove throttle body and adjust tps to spec (4crawler has an article)
2) short diag port and set timing
You need throttle plate adjusted to spec to properly adjust tps, and then tps working to set timing (I think)
#52
To bad I'm running out of time 'cause smog cert is due on the 28th. So busy at the office right now so might just have to take it to a trusted shop to have this looked at.
Lesson learned: get smog check done at least a month before due date. (Smog check station also gives me 30 days to have problem done, then I'll just have to pay them $10 for cert when I come back.
#53
Fun except spending the $ on it isnt, esp for a runner I picked up for $3k. I found a guy who is recommended by the guys on here Tim and CT Engineering, he wants $800 to do the head, and in a worst case scenario, $2700 for a full rebuild. Seems like a good deal to me considering rebuilt 22re's seem to be 2200-2500+.
#54
Pair valve is not needed to pass smog readings. It may fail a visual if they are looking for it. The pair system only operates when the engine is cold, and during deceleration. It looks like this test was performed at a constant speed, so pair valve being removed will have no effect at all.
I still want to know, what are your compression numbers?
I still want to know, what are your compression numbers?
Thoughts? Would that low compression cause my HC and CO to be high?
Thanks,
Eton
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Fun except spending the $ on it isnt, esp for a runner I picked up for $3k. I found a guy who is recommended by the guys on here Tim and CT Engineering, he wants $800 to do the head, and in a worst case scenario, $2700 for a full rebuild. Seems like a good deal to me considering rebuilt 22re's seem to be 2200-2500+.
#56
It can. If the compression is low enough to cause the fuel to not burn completely. Gauges all vary as well, so without knowing what the "good" cylinders tested, I don't have a great idea of how low your compression is. However, with 2 adjacent cylinders being low, I might suspect a head gasket issue. Did they ever perform a leak down test? I know you said compression came back up with a wet test, but it always comes up with a wet test. Leak down is the best way to know for sure where the problem lies. It could also be a weak spark, which allows the unburned fuel to wash the cylinder walls. Or any number of other issues
Last edited by j2the-e; 07-23-2013 at 09:57 PM.
#57
It can. If the compression is low enough to cause the fuel to not burn completely. Gauges all vary as well, so without knowing what the "good" cylinders tested, I don't have a great idea of how low your compression is. However, with 2 adjacent cylinders being low, I might suspect a head gasket issue. Did they ever perform a leak down test? I know you said compression came back up with a wet test, but it always comes up with a wet test. Leak down is the best way to know for sure where the problem lies. It could also be a weak spark, which allows the unburned fuel to wash the cylinder walls. Or any number of other issues
Im thinking I will buy a new head from engbldr and replace the head myself, but before I bolt on the new one, snap some pictures of the pistons to see if anyone can tell if they need to be done as well.
On that note, I have never done a head gasket, seems fairly simple. I heard a trick to put the gasket on the block, then gasket sealer on the head for a good dependable seal... Any thoughts?
#58
2700 being low or high? =) It would be a, drop my car off, they pull the motor do all the work. Machine the block, crank, etc all seals, new head, etc. A true re-build.
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